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Its the 318 touring Lux and seem to be a common problem.
Its actually 158k and has now had a replacement interior. The drivers seat base was tatty and the rear seats. This is the second diff on the car and the last one really whined. Hence being changed.
Fixed the cam sensor problem, it was damaged/chafed wiring.
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^Has most of the things I hate about chavved-up Turbo cars.
- FMICs are fecking horrid, no self-respecting car designer would ever leave something as mundane as a Radiator Core on display. Paint it black, and cover it up.
- 'Eared' seat in what's clearly a road car. Twattish.
- Gusseting in a cage, but leaving in the sunroof. Duh.
- Ancient metal bonnet pins on a CF bonnet. One word - Aerocatches.
- Bolt-on arch lips that don't extend far anough over the wheels and tyres. More aero points lost.
- FMICs are fecking horrid, no self-respecting car designer would ever leave something as mundane as a Radiator Core on display. Paint it black, and cover it up.
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I'd stay away from Time Attack in general if I were you then. It is a Time Attack car.
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I'd stay away from Time Attack in general if I were you then. It is a Time Attack car.
I don't think it is.
Time Attack drivers generally wear helmets and earplugs, not Ear Defenders from B&Q. I do generally 'stay away', but even I know that TA cars generally also have a lot more aero development than this thing.
It looks more like a Time Attack Enthusiast car. -
Anyone interested in a Maserati 228? Bodyshell not rusty!!!! amazing interior
Needs rear discs, pads. Deserves saving as it is a great car.
PM me for photos and more details
Which begs the question why don't you change the rear discs and pads, and then it won't need anything, and you'll find it a lot easier to sell.
Talking of brakes, I had a nice drive out to the 'secret' nuclear bunker in Kelvedon Hatch yesterday, which served to demonstrate a) just how effortlessly fast the Panzerwagen is, b) how nice on a sweeping a road it is, and c) how huge and unweildy it is on a narrow, badly surfaced, b road. Anyway, at some point I stepped on the brake pedal for a junction and nothing happened for the first inch of its travel, which was a bit worrying. It had been fine up until then. When we stopped, I pumped the pedal a couple of times and it became good and solid again, and didn't trouble me for the rest of the day. Anyone know what that's about?
It's had new discs and pads recently so I would have assumed a fluid change too, but maybe it wasn't bled properly, or maybe the hoses need replacing. It has plenty of fluid in the reservoir. -
Which begs the question why don't you change the rear discs and pads, and then it won't need anything, and you'll find it a lot easier to sell.
Talking of brakes, I had a nice drive out to the 'secret' nuclear bunker in Kelvedon Hatch yesterday, which served to demonstrate a) just how effortlessly fast the Panzerwagen is, b) how nice on a sweeping a road it is, and c) how huge and unweildy it is on a narrow, badly surfaced, b road. Anyway, at some point I stepped on the brake pedal for a junction and nothing happened for the first inch of its travel, which was a bit worrying. It had been fine up until then. When we stopped, I pumped the pedal a couple of times and it became good and solid again, and didn't trouble me for the rest of the day. Anyone know what that's about?
It's had new discs and pads recently so I would have assumed a fluid change too, but maybe it wasn't bled properly, or maybe the hoses need replacing. It has plenty of fluid in the reservoir.I have the same problem with my mini, please advise!
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Cheers Richie.
Never had anything other than pin-sharp brakes on the Triumph and piss-poor ones on the Rover, so not experienced good brakes turning bad. They are big vented discs on all 4 wheels with 4 pots up front, so they should be kick-ass.Next month (when I can afford it) I will book it in for an assessment at Automerc, and probably get them to change the fluid then, and possibly the flexi hoses. I'm sure it will need suspension rubbers and things changing. While it has a complete main dealer service history up till the late 90s, 45,000 miles has passed since then, and it was stored for 6 or 7 years and I have no idea what recommissioning work was done or when.
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I don't think it is.
Time Attack drivers generally wear helmets and earplugs, not Ear Defenders from B&Q. I do generally 'stay away', but even I know that TA cars generally also have a lot more aero development than this thing.
It looks more like a Time Attack Enthusiast car.Google returned a feature in which he said it was built for Time Attack but that project thread suggests otherwise. I think I'm just being overly defensive as I'd probably make the same mistakes. I would at least use aerocatches but I would definitely not have made that sunroof connection and despite my Aerospace degree I'm still not that hot on aero.
However I will say, the club spec cars in TA are usually home built or not built by race car developers and really are just OTT street cars, people throw on aero packages based on what their local tuner tells them or what they've read online, or more likely, what they THINK will work.
I'm also not averse to an FMIC, but then again my chargecooler's pre rad is totally hidden.
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BQ I'd definitely support a fluid change, my old Bimmer had that problem, it's a bit disconcerting doing very illegal figures on the M1 and reaching for the brakes and nothing happening. Like you, a quick pump had them working 100% again but in an emergency you don't want them not to work. The bleed accompanying the fluid change seemed to fix the problem.
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I think they cost about £15 from Tesco if you want to pick one up yourself, BQ.
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Probably £2 delivered from China via eBay.
lynx
ricky2slicky
V-L
Mr_B
NurseHolliday
O'Shane
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BRM
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Car appreciation... the aesthetics, the engineering, etc
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Mine has had a whine since I've owned it. Checked the gearbox - nope. Checked the cams - nope. Checked the diff - nope.
It just has a whine.