Current Projects chat and miscellany

Interesting bar angle.

Thanks!
I tried to replicate the position of that on my most comfortable fast bike

Beautiful bike saarf.

...cained a geezer on a Basso the other day, was silent, he didn't realise I'd been next to him till I over took

You won a sprint against someone unaware he was racing?

:-P

no man, he was in his 70's

roads were dry yesterday morning , so fixed saddle and went out

If you see some guy licking it, i'm sorry, i can't help it.

Very nice :)

thanks

Same frame as mine, It's a beaut!

Apopular demand here is the Pinsello with Sapim CXRay spokes
Mac2 CD2 Mavic piste 520 36H rear and Mavic 571 32H front.

Got the exact same wheelset. But the front is a 520 not radial laced.
This bike looks amazing, keep coming back to it like every other day.

What bb are you using for the Starfish cranks, what lockring and what cog?

Stuff to put on it:

Mavic 632 cranks w 50t stronglight
Mavic 305 headset
Mavic 610 bb or Campagnolo SP 111mm if I can't be arsed to chamfer the bb for a fit.
Mavic 520 piste 36h hubs on Mavic CD2 Mach2 tubs (Cog and lockring dunno)
Rallye tubs (I need some tyres on there and they cost fuck all, and I'm now poorish)
Ofmega Master Pista pedals w yellow Lapize straps and silver clips. (not french, but good looking)
Stronglight fluted seatpost single bolt (shimmed until I can find a french seat post in 26.8)
Ideale 2001 or 2002
Mavic 350 bars 42cm
Mavic Aero quill stem 120mm

Anyone want to buy a near NOS Campagnolo Mirage headset and a mirage bb? Both for fifty quid + postage.

roads were dry yesterday morning , so fixed saddle and went out

Hey man where did you get those cages from!? Really cool.

thanks, King Cage Iris,steel which don't stain your bottle (ahem) and they were from a tip from here

Moving this from Any Question Answered on mdcc_testers recommendation, hopefully my ignorance will help others. Background is there if anyone else finds themselves with a fork intended for a 27" wheel that they were hoping to use with a 700C wheel...

Just a thought:
How long is that fork, axle to crown?
Is it 1"?
How long does the steerer need to be?

I'm asking because a CX fork might solve all your problems at once, and I happen to have a 1" one cluttering up the place. You'd want a mini-v brake (or a proper v-brake with an MTB lever if you're using flat bars). That might (if the dimension are right) get you decent braking and not fuck up the geometry without having to spend too much.

Fork is 39cm
I believe it is 1" - sent mdcc_tester a picture of this...
steerer, from top of headset stack to top of crown, is 14cm

Cheers

some better pictures of my giant tcx slr2.

What's going on at the chainstay/seat tube junction looks a bit weird.

What changes will you be making?

^Looks like "nicely hidden" rear brake cable routing :)

Edit: No, sorry, I'm blind.

Headset fitted on my Pomp today, just waiting on the wheels and the build can begin proper.

What's going on at the chainstay/seat tube junction looks a bit weird.

What changes will you be making?

made for stiffness. no changes are planned as the built was already a change regarding the otp build.

Fork is 39cm
I believe it is 1" - sent mdcc_tester a picture of this...
steerer, from top of headset stack to top of crown, is 14cm

This is the fork I have, it's 405mm A-C, that's a 700x25C tyre looking lost in space for scale. Aluminium blades, steel steerer 1" x 300mm plain for Aheadset.

If you're planning to use skinny 700C tyres on a bike designed for 27×1¼", the advantage of a slightly longer fork is that it brings your BB height back up towards where it was (but not all the way), the disadvantage is a change in the frame angles which slows the steering a tad and may need adjustments to seat post and stem for position. On balance, I'd much rather have a fork 15mm too long than one that's 20-25mm too short, which is what you'd get if you put a 700C road race or track fork on there.

On the other hand, if it really is only 39cm A-C on the current fork, those 75mm Alhongas or 73mm Tektros should work; 311mm rim radius + 73mm brake drop is 384mm, meaning the brake nut would be all but touching the crown race if you really needed all that brake drop on a 39cm fork, taking the centre of the brake track as level with the bead seat. On real rims, that varies a bit, but only a couple of mm either way.

As usual, accurate measurement now will stop you wasting a lot of time, effort and possibly money later.

1 Attachment

What's going on at the chainstay/seat tube junction?

Some ugly welding

Got the exact same wheelset. But the front is a 520 not radial laced.
This bike looks amazing, keep coming back to it like every other day.

What bb are you using for the Starfish cranks, what lockring and what cog?

Campa bb ? model (was there when i found it 109mm?) mavic lockring (fr tread) and a vintage noname cog

the frame is a columbus EL OS

Giant is awesome

Thanks again! 2 questions I guess: what would you want for your fork, and (assuming, due to age, the headset is threaded - judging on track record I'm likely to be wrong with this as well!) how straight forward is the process of cutting and threading the steerer to fit?

I'm afraid I don't entirely follow you below re your calculations of brake drop and appropriate measurements but the 39cm was measured carefully and I sent a pic trying to show this, so hopefully reasonably accurate - if this means that the Alonghas would work then the main consideration for me would be financial as they both seem serviceable solutions...?

Cheers!

This is the fork I have, it's 405mm A-C, that's a 700x25C tyre looking lost in space for scale. Aluminium blades, steel steerer 1" x 300mm plain for Aheadset.

If you're planning to use skinny 700C tyres on a bike designed for 27×1¼", the advantage of a slightly longer fork is that it brings your BB height back up towards where it was (but not all the way), the disadvantage is a change in the frame angles which slows the steering a tad and may need adjustments to seat post and stem for position. On balance, I'd much rather have a fork 15mm too long than one that's 20-25mm too short, which is what you'd get if you put a 700C road race or track fork on there.

On the other hand, if it really is only 39cm A-C on the current fork, those 75mm Alhongas or 73mm Tektros should work; 311mm rim radius + 73mm brake drop is 384mm, meaning the brake nut would be all but touching the crown race if you really needed all that brake drop on a 39cm fork, taking the centre of the brake track as level with the bead seat. On real rims, that varies a bit, but only a couple of mm either way.

As usual, accurate measurement now will stop you wasting a lot of time, effort and possibly money later.

If the Alhonga brake will work, that's probably the best solution, it avoids having to take your bike apart and keeps your geometry more or less stock. I'd still try to fill up the gaps with some bigger tyres, for all the usual reasons. If you want the fork, it's £20 + postage at cost, but you'd want to change your headset to a threadless one rather than cutting threads on the steerer, and then you'd have to change the stem, and the way these things work you're probably using 26.4mm bars now so you'd have that problem to contend with; it's a can of worms you don't need on a pub bike if some cheap Chinese brakes will get you out of the hole you dug for yourself by electing to change the wheel size :-)

made for stiffness.

I guess the tt has to be horizontal for shouldering and the seatstays are for (close to) road bike stiffness?

Sorry if this has been asked already... has it got 'guard eyelets?

Clearly not going to be a customer for me :-)

Thanks mdcc_tester, really appreciate all the advice today! Cheers

If the Alhonga brake will work, that's probably the best solution, it avoids having to take your bike apart and keeps your geometry more or less stock. I'd still try to fill up the gaps with some bigger tyres, for all the usual reasons. If you want the fork, it's £20 + postage at cost, but you'd want to change your headset to a threadless one rather than cutting threads on the steerer, and then you'd have to change the stem, and the way these things work you're probably using 26.4mm bars now so you'd have that problem to contend with; it's a can of worms you don't need on a pub bike if some cheap Chinese brakes will get you out of the hole you dug for yourself by electing to change the wheel size :-)

Decided to build another tourer/cross bike after the old kinesis 5T was stolen. Thought this might be a sign for me to go hub gear and disc brake. Pompetamine's seatstays are just quirky.

Alfine 8 seems to have more positive reviews than Sturmey Archer. Also flat bar for shorter reach, better control and cheaper brakes and shifter.