Current Projects chat and miscellany

Any one here use a Flip-flop fix-fix hub? Just wondering if its worth having one

I have one... small range though, 19t on one side, 17t on the other....

useful, not essential.

How often do you swap between two gears? If it's more than a couple of times a year, a double-fixed hub might be worth having. Since they build symmetrical wheels, it's never a disadvantage to have one even if you don't use the other side, and it's always there as a spare in case you strip the first side.

I meant just fix-fix, sorry

Well i don't change my gears that much, but i never really been able to with lack of money and tools (until now) so i just put up with what ever gear i had, i started off with 46:17 on the Dolan and soon changed to 48:17, was thinking it would be good to have 49:17-18 or 47t with the same cogs

I guess you would use one side the most and have the other side if you plan to do a longer ride? just not sure which way i would do it.

Seems like its worth the bother, should help with skid patches to, Edit: that's like 70 potential skid patches!

fix/fix is the most versatile. You can still put a freewheel on the cog threads.

I've had a 16 and 18t cog on my back wheel this summer. So 48x18 for most stuff and 48x16 for flatter group rides, or a short blast on my own. I'll go to 17 and 19t again in a couple of months for long spinny winter riding. That felt about right last winter.

If your dropouts are long enough you can get a 2 tooth difference working, but you might need to adjust rear brake pads (if you've got any).

Amazing. Close the internet, job done.

^^ solid contribution

If your dropouts are long enough you can get a 2 tooth difference working.

If your track ends are long enough, you can get away with a lot more than that. I once rode my Fort to a hill climb on 42/16 and turned the wheel round to 42/21 for the race and that was well within the available scope. Some track frames have very long ends, but 1" of axle movement is enough to accommodate 8 teeth difference.

If your track ends are long enough, you can get away with a lot more than that. I once rode my Fort to a hill climb on 42/16 and turned the wheel round to 42/21 for the race and that was well within the available scope. Some track frames have very long ends, but 1" of axle movement is enough to accommodate 8 teeth difference.

I have a cunning plan...

If your track ends are long enough, and you have the internal tyre clearance you can get away with a lot more than that.

Just worth adding to in case people are running 28mm tyres in track frames with limited clearance.

Applies to 24mm tyres in Cervelo T3s too...

In fact, a great many track frames will have the tyre rubbing the back of the seat tube if the wheel is pushed to the front of the track ends with anything bigger than 18mm tubulars, and some even then.

Soon, this...

and these...

• stickers

• some more carbon.

= ?

= dibs!

Damn, that is nice! But with those wheels you need to swap the cranks out for DA ones.

Damn, that is nice! But to complete the build you need to swap the cranks out for black omniums.

ftfy

Just acquired a black All City Nature Boy frame and forks from ebay for the sum of £300.

Going to bring over my finishing kit from the Pompino (Thomson stem and seatpost, Salsa Cowbells, Flite) and build some wheels with Goldtecs on Velocity A23s, maybe with a WI Eno Crankset.

Can't really afford any of this so it's going to be a pretty slow build. Maybe ready for next years cross season...

Chirico finally finished (well, minus the block and chain, but near enough). Soon to be winging it's way to the other side of the world...

Omnomiums can GTFO.... I'm keeping the Condor as a mongrel. a SEXY mongrel.

Finally finished the Dolan, lacklustre phone photo here...

Thanks to Pistoffski for the brifters and brakes that complete the group.

I say finished, until I find a pair of carbon forks for it that is....

So I have these two seatposts

One is a Campag, 27.0 that came off the Raleigh and was destined for the Rourke:

The other is a shiny, but mediocre UNO that came off a new Dawes Galaxy and was on the Rourke and is destined for the Raleigh:

I think you can see what the problem is...the Campag is 27.0 and the UNO is 27.2

What confuses me is that the Rourke is 653 and the Raleigh is 531, so both should take 27.2 seatposts, no?

Anyway, questions for you lovely folk:

• Can I use them the other way round (i.e. 27.0 in the Rourke and 27.2 in the Raleigh)?
  
• How much is the Campag post worth?
  
• Does anyone have a Campag (aero or not) 27.2 post for sale?
  
• Does anyone have a beater silver 27.0 post for sale?
  
  
  

The issue here is that the Rourke deserves a Campag seatpost to complete the groupset and the Raleigh is a beater, so I don't want anyone taking a fancy to any of the parts.

Which reminds me, I'm also trading/ selling the Nitto Stem on the Raleigh..

Thanks!

You need the correct seatpost size, no executions.

It also might be worth measuring the seat tube dia just in case a mistake has been made. On my Mercian whn I got it a 27.2 wouldn't fit even tho it was 531. But then someone measured it properly and it was clear it had been over tightened and misshapen the seattube. Retro de corsa helped sort it out tho. /CSB.

As for value - work out exactly which modle and check the completes listings on ebay. But at a guess £25-40, depending on condition and the day.

Had the same here, bought my trackframe with a 27.0 seatpost, my boss told me 27.0 doesn't come around that often, so we sorted it out and it appeared to be a 27.2 seatpost. Maybe try to sort out the Raleigh.

do you know what era the Campag seatpost is? any guess?

You need the correct seatpost size, no executions.

not true, difference of .2mm is nothing on a seatpost. sand it down gently, 7 mins of work and your seatpost becomes 27.0.

You mean sand down cro mo seatpost? =))

Apollo, this one's not on velobase, so my take it's some 90ies MTB/ATB post, road ones came in alu afaik

True, thanks... I was thinking mid 90's centaur...maybe not.

It's from the 1990's .. Chorus and Record had titanium shafts and Centaur had steel if I remember correctly.

You mean sand down cro mo seatpost? =))

Apollo, this one's not on velobase, so my take it's some 90ies MTB/ATB post, road ones came in alu afaik

even if its ti, apollo knows from my experience who can do it accurately to 0.1mm :)