Current Projects chat and miscellany

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  • My Mick Gray. Will probably be for sale next month as its a tad to small in the leg. Message me if you've got something bigger for sale!

  • ↑↑If you want 42/12, get 49/14 and enjoy the smoother drive. Or go 56/16 and frighten the opposition :-)

  • That means spending money. I should just put my track cranks on there as I have a selection of rings and sprockets that'll get me from 81" to 105". It would also look sexier.

  • So my next projects are:

    Wilsons cycles 58" CTC (at the top of my frame size range) 531 tourer, with 122mm rear spacing <<wtf (seller said 130 on the eBay ad -.- but i'll be using 126mm 7 speed rear probs, rather than try to source a 122mm 5 speed wheel)
    Currently fitted with tiagra brakes and ultegra triple hollowtech crankset (tiagra BB)

    Wow, you have increased your collection sir! Tourer sounds good but I would change the BB if I were you, get something nice in there! Look forward to seeing it built up!

  • I will have to make a post in current projects soon...

  • My Mick Gray. Will probably be for sale next month as its a tad to small in the leg. Message me if you've got something bigger for sale!

    That's bloody lovely! What size is it? (please say it's too big for me...)

  • Thuekr where is your plastic fantastic ride? Be sure to get some good photos....
    [QUOTE=Thuekr;2861046]I will - I am lookin' forward to show my stupid(fast) build :)
    [/quote]

    It went down in Copenhagen yesterday - picture of my Lo-Pro 650c build as promised

    And more PlastikFantastic-BARBIE-edit pictures http://www.dropbox.com/gallery/36358604/1/PlastikFantastic?h=4f4b52
    and the #plasticfantastic feed (including the dropbox feed and not-replicas in the beginning (end?) of the feed) http://instagrid.me/tag/plastikfantastic/?v=grid

  • the mick gray has a 59 seat tube ctc and a 57 top tube ctc

  • Roberts finaly got DA bars on, need to tape them when i've got time. At LMNH jumble today I found 26.0 clamp Nitto Pearl, that will do for now.
    Also need to swap cranks and bb to DA ones and I'm done, until I find a perfect stem.

  • the mick gray has a 59 seat tube ctc and a 57 top tube ctc

    Thank fuck for that!

  • It went down in Copenhagen yesterday - picture of my Lo-Pro 650c build as promised

    And more PlastikFantastic-BARBIE-edit pictures http://www.dropbox.com/gallery/36358604/1/PlastikFantastic?h=4f4b52
    and the #plasticfantastic feed (including the dropbox feed and not-replicas in the beginning (end?) of the feed) http://instagrid.me/tag/plastikfantastic/?v=grid

    Feel like I'm tripping balls after looking through them... Think I need some fresh air.

  • I used coke before, bunged up the hole, turned it upside down and poured in through the BB shell. topped up every 8 hours or so and 3 days later it dropped out!

    I gave up coke, made me paranoid

  • Tightening torque for AC-S and AC-H cartridge square taper BBs is 70Nm, right cup first. If your BB shell is properly prepared, this should work, without distorting the cartridge housing. You'll probably find your left cup shoulder is closer to the shell once you've done it up to the correct torque.

    There are only two versions, 68mm BSC and 70mm ITA, using the same cartridge core with different cups.

    I see.

    The cups do say 70nm on them. I don't have a torque wrench so I can't test this but it was pretty fucking tight on both sides I was heaving quite hard. Perhaps its the fact that the bb shell hasn't had the threads run through for a while and it has never been reamed (correct term?)

    The only possible Issue I can see is that the left crank arm runs closer to the left cup than the right hand arm runs to the right cup. I guess that proves that the left hand cup is not tight against the BB unit yet.

    As long as no one thinks its going to cause any major problems I will deal with it as soon as i get the time.

  • One common problem when inserting cartridge BBs into older frames which have hitherto only been exposed to cup and cone is that the thread depth on the cartridge cups is greater, whereas the threads in the shell have only been chased to the depth required by old loose ball cups. As a result, the cartridge cup jams in the unprepared threads before it is fully inserted, making it seem tight when it is not yet fully engaged.

  • Ahh I did wonder if this might be the case, its not an old frame but perhaps the threads have not been threaded far enough. My plan is to take it to my buddies bike shop and spend an afternoon ensuring everything is threaded perfectly, and correct torque.

  • Love these little things


    1 Attachment

    • tijusters.JPG
  • Love these little things

    Very neat, more details please?

  • I've just bought this frame from Biarittz, very happy with the purchase.(£205)
    [URL="http://www.flickr.com/photos/63195011@N04/7148788871/in/photostream"][/URL][U][/U]![](http://www.flickr.com/photos/63195011@N04/7177865500/)
    Nitto stem and Massy risers for £8 on yesterdays "Mega Jumble", nitto stem was chrome and in appalling condition chrome as well as risers :).
    Still awaiting for BBs and spokes from Dodici Cicli (ordered a while back, but they had some kind of holidays 'til 2nd of may) to go with my Dodici rims (bought from Maddy) total for the wheelset £150.
    http://www.dodicicicli.com/collections/rims-wheels/products/dodici-wheelset
    Charge Spoon saddle £15 (Dandy)

    I've almost run out of cash and yet I still need the following:
    Crankset (I thought of Miche Primato Advanced but they are too expensive for me atm, so I need something cheaper)
    BB (Italian threaded, 70mm shell)
    Cog & lockring (What do you think of those that Velodrome makes?)
    Chain (Izumi standart or KMC)
    Pedals and Straps
    Brake lever

    A rough estimate: Cranks (£50), BB (£15), Cog & chain (£20) Pedals(£20) brake lever (£5)

    £110.... which is still too high.

  • It went down in Copenhagen yesterday - picture of my Lo-Pro 650c build as promised

    And more PlastikFantastic-BARBIE-edit pictures http://www.dropbox.com/gallery/36358604/1/PlastikFantastic?h=4f4b52
    and the #plasticfantastic feed (including the dropbox feed and not-replicas in the beginning (end?) of the feed) http://instagrid.me/tag/plastikfantastic/?v=grid

    that looks like an awfully uncomfortable bar angle

  • It went down in Copenhagen yesterday - picture of my Lo-Pro 650c build as promised

    And more PlastikFantastic-BARBIE-edit pictures http://www.dropbox.com/gallery/36358604/1/PlastikFantastic?h=4f4b52
    and the #plasticfantastic feed (including the dropbox feed and not-replicas in the beginning (end?) of the feed) http://instagrid.me/tag/plastikfantastic/?v=grid

    that looks like an awfully uncomfortable bar angle!

  • that looks like an awfully uncomfortable bar angle

    Indeed it was! - but the theme for the event was sort of HHSB - so that's the reason for the stupid angle :-)

  • Indeed it was! - but the theme for the event was sort of HHSB - so that's the reason for the stupid angle :-)

    No foot retention nor any signs of brakes either.

  • No foot retention nor any signs of brakes either.

    I rode it with SPD-SL - but since the event had a more gathering-cruising-nature of the event - I didn't fit the fork with the hole drilled for a brake - and God almighty saw me worthy that day :-)

  • Just changed bars. I now have the confidence to get out of the saddle. Not sure yet but I might replace the rolls with a banana seat.

  • Would anybody know where I might find a set of Dura Ace FC-7600 (square taper) BB/crank bolts and dust covers?

    Have looked high and low and I can't seem to track em down anywhere.

    Have got a cheaps set at the mo, but they don't sit flush with the surface of my cranks and look a bit crap.

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Current Projects chat and miscellany

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