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Rourkie is a reputed builder.
A lot depends on the material, type of joint method, extra bits - internal cable routing ect.
The polo guy's are getting steel frames for around £300-400. Ryan of Spring break is a frame builder, he owns/runs Oak cycles. There's Ted James. There's a lot around if you look. There's a site where they give you a list of prices for each part, you then add it up and that's your price.
Hmmm, something to think about. I'm always gonna be on a tight budget as it is, but as I can do most of the semi skilled, and simpler skilled work myself, it might be worth looking into.
Wouldn't want any extra bits, no cable mounts, no rack mounts, no rear brake mount, nothing, not even a seat clamp, super clean. Would like it made out of high grade steel (853, maybe 953?) fillet brazed, with an integrated 1"1/8th headset, track dropouts with inbuilt chain tensioners and an oversized push-fit BB.
I want a pure, light weight, no thrills, super stiff pedaling, but comfortable (without sacrificing pedaling efficiency), steel street bike.Yeah... that'd do it! ;P
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What do you want inbuilt tensioners for? Just another fiddly thing to get all crudded up. Learn to tension a chain properly and you'll not have a problem.
I suppose. Its not an important thing to be honest and have been around bikes long enough to do without, or for convenience sake just use after market tensioners as it'll probably be cheaper.
no thrills? I'm out.
Baby, I'm thrills enough! ;P
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If you use the bike out on the road and get a puncture - which is more likely to happen in the winter when you have cold fingers, you then have to fiddle with these small screws which have been crudded up by all the road muck which seems to be abundant in the winter. Cold fingers + cruddy screws = fecking annoying arse ache.
I guess I've had plenty of practice getting the chain tension correct while I was racing and knowing how tight the nuts need to go for the wheel not to slip forward. Putting a wheel in and tightening should take no more than 30seconds without tensioners. Tensioners would probably cause me to take even more time to put a wheel in. You also have the annoyance of having to undo the tensioners before taking the wheel out, then having to re-set the tensioners before tightening the nuts.
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Would like it made out of high grade steel (853, maybe 953?) fillet brazed,
Nothing built by a reputable builder in 853, fillet brazed is going to be that cheap, and I'd have thought it would be unlikely that they'd let you have the frame before it had been finished - ie they'd smooth off the fillets themselves.953 altogether is going to be 1 grand plus anyway.
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If you use the bike out on the road and get a puncture - which is more likely to happen in the winter when you have cold fingers, you then have to fiddle with these small screws which have been crudded up by all the road muck which seems to be abundant in the winter. Cold fingers + cruddy screws = fecking annoying arse ache.
I guess I've had plenty of practice getting the chain tension correct while I was racing and knowing how tight the nuts need to go for the wheel not to slip forward. Putting a wheel in and tightening should take no more than 30seconds without tensioners. Tensioners would probably cause me to take even more time to put a wheel in. You also have the annoyance of having to undo the tensioners before taking the wheel out, then having to re-set the tensioners before tightening the nuts.
But with built-in tensioners you don't have to touch them when removing and fitting a wheel. Your talking about the annoying things that loop onto the axle (such as the MKS Keirin things)?
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Yeah good point that does sound shit. My dropouts are forward facing though. #smugface
Hehehe!
Me thinks I'm gonna have to talk to a few frame builders about what can be done, at what sorta budget. Ideally, would like to spend no more than £400 max, but as we all know, we don't live in an ideal world.
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I think £400 is much better spent on a second hand hand otp frame that does what you want, I would say that much money will get you very little in the way of bespoke
I've had many bikes over the years and only one bespoke (ti), as for value for money I've had some fantastically exotic bikes at a fraction of the price of the equivelant custom options and will continue to buy preloved frames till I win the lottery and get a vanilla or serotta or IF
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I guess I've had plenty of practice getting the chain tension correct while I was racing and knowing how tight the nuts need to go for the wheel not to slip forward. Putting a wheel in and tightening should take no more than 30seconds without tensioners. Tensioners would probably cause me to take even more time to put a wheel in. You also have the annoyance of having to undo the tensioners before taking the wheel out, then having to re-set the tensioners before tightening the nuts.
wow, oz., you sound like you're a real pro! well done
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Some rubbish pictures of the commuter.
- Shimano R600 brake levers replacing the SRAM ones
- Soma Hwy One bars replacing the Noodles
- Cross lever removed (braking performance suffered with it and now the reach is shorter I didn't really use it)
- Inline Thomson seatpost to make space on the saddle rail for...
- Carradice Bagman support and Pendle saddlebag
For me, the levers are so much better than either the SRAM S500 or the Tektro ones I've tried. I don't have the biggest hands so I like that they're a bit smaller. They're also a lot stiffer than the SRAM ones.
The Carradice is a bit of an experiment. It's a bit of a faff, and there are quite a few annoyances with it (too boring to list), but it is nice to commute without a bag on my back.
Would like some nicer cranks eventually. Omniums (Omnia?) or 75s. But it is supposed to be the workhorse, if not exactly a beater...
- Shimano R600 brake levers replacing the SRAM ones
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The Carradice is a bit of an experiment. It's a bit of a faff, and there are quite a few annoyances with it (too boring to list), but it is nice to commute without a bag on my back.
I used one of those for a short while, but never really got along with it. The bracket broke in the last 10 miles on the way back from a round trip to Amsterdam. Which was anoying.
My assessment:
-It bounces a little too much for my liking- The grub screws that hold the bracket tubes in place are a silly design
- 'Quick Release' is a lie. It's only marginally quicker than using the leather straps and still leaves an ugly bracket on the back of your bike when you don't use the bag.
I don't have a viable alternative for light touring on any of my bikes. So I'll probably end up fixing it and using it again next year.
- The grub screws that hold the bracket tubes in place are a silly design
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And an invisible chain! I have got to get me one of those!