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do people not get mugged off for converting posh road frames any more?
Who cares. That looks like a great bike (when the brake lever is angled correctly).
My conversion makes a better road going fixed bike than any of the track frames I've owned. Chain adjusters, chain hanger, forward facing dropouts for when you want to run 'guards.
I sound like 'scoble.
:0
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10" spacer stack, canti bosses..
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do people not get mugged off for converting posh road frames any more?
Do you see any dead puppies in those pics? No. It's fine then.
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Cinelli looks brill - can't believe you were considering powder coat!
[nitpick]maybe shorten the brake cable outer though?[/nitpick]
Will do, thought it better to be a bit long than cut it too short, measure twice cut once ;)
Who cares. That looks like a great bike (when the brake lever is angled correctly).
My conversion makes a better road going fixed bike than any of the track frames I've owned. Chain adjusters, chain hanger, forward facing dropouts for when you want to run 'guards.
I sound like 'scoble.
:0
I just put it where it felt comfy, would you bring it up horzontal?
History of the frame.
I was given it by my brother-in-law 15 yrs ago when I sarted to get into racing. He was a semi-pro road racer so he got it cheap. I rode it for a couple of years until I bought a new bike to race on. Then the Cinelli got relegated to a training bike. When I gave up racing, too much like hard work, it got dumped at the back of the shed, where it has been for the last 10 years.
So when I was thinking of getting powered coated I didn't really know that I had somthing a bit special. Whatever you may think about converting classic frames at least now it has a new lease of life.
I may sell it this time next year, as I'm planning to do the Raid Pyerneen, and will use then funds to finance a new road bike built for climbing. -
SRAM Tech manual for GXP:
"Check the assembly for play by rocking the crank arms back and forth away from frame. If the crank moves, tighten crank arm bolt until no play is detected. If maximum torque of
54 N·m (478 in-lb) has been achieved, remove the crank arm from the spindle, apply additional grease and repeat installation procedures until play is eliminated."The GXP system is unusual compared with other external BBs in relying entirely on accurate assembly tolerance to eliminate play without excessive bearing preload. If everything is correctly made (mostly BB shell width), it should just pretty much fall together, but if it doesn't, there is no wave washer (UltraTorque) or preload screw (HTII) to take up the slack.
BB shell width is less of an issue with GXP... the drive side bearing floats the axle and can soak up any bb tolerances. the non drive side bearing is captured between the notched axle and the crank arm providing the secure fit and lack of play. The amount of axle exposed on the drive side can vary a few mm and the system will still be free of play as its secured on NDS bearing. Mechanics have told me to take their recommended torque settings with a pinch of salt as in practice they have to go much higher to get it all seated correctly. regarding seals the new 2011 version of the gxp bb is far better at preventing grit. I swapped out my 09 red ceramic for the cheaper force one 2011 and it runs better for longer.
Also the spacers are only for MTB frames. Its unclear in the GXP manual/ datasheet but using them will result in rubbing on the drive side spider.
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@emoxfag
not even necessarily Campag, just definitely not Sora shifters!