Current Projects chat and miscellany

Tune Bigfoot cranks in silver would look fantastic.

#moneypit

perhaps this saddle will distract attention from the fugly cranks..

http://static.lfgss.com/attachments/44549d1317717652-dscn0109.jpg

45 quid from colnago costa

Does anyone know the correct set up for gxp bottom brackets?

I've got everything set up and ready to instal but I'm unsure about spacers. I'm using a hope road bottom bracket with the correct shims to work with gxp cranks. It will all go in fine, the non drive side bearings clamp in as they should and it all spins etc. The worry I have is that the drive side crank arm protudes about a mm from the drive side cup, as in you can see a mm or so of the axle between the two. Is this a problem?

The crank set sits where it should in terms of chain line (I think) as this is set by the non drive side cup clamped by the crank arm. I could reduce the gap by adding another spacer, but does it make a difference?

I can take pictures if that's all a little too confusing. Well tomorrow when I've go the tools to put the bb in.

I quite like them....

I love them! And I love those old Selle Italia boxes.

After I first posted this a few weeks ago. Definitely no power coat, but a clean and a few new/old bits it's ready to ride.

Lovely.

Does anyone know the correct set up for gxp bottom brackets?

I've got everything set up and ready to instal but I'm unsure about spacers. I'm using a hope road bottom bracket with the correct shims to work with gxp cranks. It will all go in fine, the non drive side bearings clamp in as they should and it all spins etc. The worry I have is that the drive side crank arm protudes about a mm from the drive side cup, as in you can see a mm or so of the axle between the two. Is this a problem?

The crank set sits where it should in terms of chain line (I think) as this is set by the non drive side cup clamped by the crank arm. I could reduce the gap by adding another spacer, but does it make a difference?

I can take pictures if that's all a little too confusing. Well tomorrow when I've go the tools to put the bb in.

Mine came without spacers, is fine. YMMV

Cheers, will position to get the best chainline.

Grab hold of the crank when it's all assembled and see if you can pull it from side to side >0.5mm*. If you can't, there is enough shimming in place.

*Less play than that for geared bikes, as having the chainrings floating from side to side messes up front indexing

Project 'Winter Beater' begins...

Currently getting it's cranks angle ground off, with the next phase being sandblasted and lacquered raw. All black components, chunky tyres and a low fixed gearing and I'm ready for the winter.

It seems impossible today, but in 8 weeks it'll be snowing, I guarantee it.

Changed my mind and got it powdercoated a hideous day glow yellow/green! Looks terrible, I love it. Still all black components though, loosely stuck the headset on to see how the black would look...

Talking of powdercoating, you definitely did the right thing by avoiding it like the plague for your Cinelli, Tridiver. It looks amazing!

You shouldn't get play as that is stopped by the clamping on the non drive side cup no? Having the cup further out (by a mm) on the drive side won't reduce play due to axle flex (the only reason I can think of) by any amount will it?

The only benefit I can see from not having axle showing is less gunk can get in close to the bearings, and with hope bearings that shouldn't be a worry.

Correct me if I'm wrong of course, and all advice is very useful etc etc.

SRAM Tech manual for GXP:

"Check the assembly for play by rocking the crank arms back and forth away from frame. If the crank moves, tighten crank arm bolt until no play is detected. If maximum torque of
54 N·m (478 in-lb) has been achieved, remove the crank arm from the spindle, apply additional grease and repeat installation procedures until play is eliminated."

The GXP system is unusual compared with other external BBs in relying entirely on accurate assembly tolerance to eliminate play without excessive bearing preload. If everything is correctly made (mostly BB shell width), it should just pretty much fall together, but if it doesn't, there is no wave washer (UltraTorque) or preload screw (HTII) to take up the slack.

Ah, didn't find that rather helpful bit of advice. Doesn't look like the drive side cup position makes much difference. Cheers, will post how it goes, just in case anyone else considers the same setup, which they might, one day, maybe...

Is it such big difference then?

No- it's fine actually, but everyone told me so many horror stories about the braking performance of carbon rims that I am now pleasantly surprised when the brakes work.

I'll get used to it I am sure.

In other news- new saddle! And other current project in the background.

After buying the frame off medik over the weekend (thanks again mate) I swapped a few parts over from my Charge, and used the Phil Wood/Open Pro wheelset which has ashamedly been lying around my flat, unused for well over a year (same goes for the cranks).

I'm pretty happy with it. I will get some double toe-straps, and I may take some black nail polish to the chainring bolts, but other than that I think it's done:

Nice green colour, forms. Tidy ride.

nice "laying about" wheelset...

Got this Giant Speeder 1986-87 from an elder man who had it from new and he never liked it, only used it too work one week.
It was hanging in his garage and was on its way too the dumpster, so my Question?
Fixed or save?

Save

huh? looks in great condition just put air in the tyres, oil the chain and enjoy it!

Cheers Aroogah.

The wheelset was on my track bike that very rarely gets used. The wheelset that was on my Charge (black CXP33s/black Gran Compes) will probably get swapped onto this bike at some point, but as I haven't ridden the Phils in ages I couldn't resist.

Tridiver completely killed it with that cinelli, looks amazing.

Cinelli looks brill - can't believe you were considering powder coat!

[nitpick]maybe shorten the brake cable outer though?[/nitpick]

just bought this. can i get away with putting these on it?

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=61004

might seem ridiculous to some, but i want this thing to be quick

i have some 8 speed zonda wheels i want to shift if your running a suitable group

After I first posted this a few weeks ago. Definitely no power coat, but a clean and a few new/old bits it's ready to ride.

do people not get mugged off for converting posh road frames any more?