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blue script on the front wheel and black on the rear?
unfair quibbling
zing!
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Its not the original fork but its still a colnago cx 650 fork :) recently I bought the original track fork but its haven't arrived yet ,
And about the colour of the disc graphic , those ghibli are printed black and the scirocco came in blue colour , and maybe tomorrow black decals for the scirocco :)
Thanks for all the comments :)
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Its not the original fork but its still a colnago cx 650 fork :) recently I bought the original track fork but its haven't arrived yet ,
And about the colour of the disc graphic , those ghibli are printed black and the scirocco came in blue colour , and maybe tomorrow black decals for the scirocco :)
Thanks for all the comments :)
You should leave the drilled fork, it's probably worth at least 0.5 seconds a km.
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What are those old campag disks made of?
Eye magnets.
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BB shell width is less of an issue with GXP... the drive side bearing floats the axle and can soak up any bb tolerances. the non drive side bearing is captured between the notched axle and the crank arm providing the secure fit and lack of play. The amount of axle exposed on the drive side can vary a few mm and the system will still be free of play as its secured on NDS bearing. Mechanics have told me to take their recommended torque settings with a pinch of salt as in practice they have to go much higher to get it all seated correctly. regarding seals the new 2011 version of the gxp bb is far better at preventing grit. I swapped out my 09 red ceramic for the cheaper force one 2011 and it runs better for longer.
Also the spacers are only for MTB frames. Its unclear in the GXP manual/ datasheet but using them will result in rubbing on the drive side spider.
Cheers for this, will line it all up with fewer worries than before. I'll be needing spacers for the hope bb as the cups/bearings/non drive clamp bit are all a mm thinner than a sram gxp bb. The bog standard gxp bb (£20 worth) that came with it (used) was very grindy after around only 2 months riding, so I went for something with a supposedly much longer shelf life.
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Ta daaa. Forks done. As you can see it's quite short so until I have a donor bike I won't be going up hills. Forks are less flexy than expected, rear end has some bounce to it. Sorted the chain coming off by using cassette gears - easier to get the right chainline as I think the original wheel is only 110mm wide
I now have the strange sensation that I'm really high up when I'm sat here by the computer
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And the action shot - http://www.flickr.com/photos/welshpug/6240744189/sizes/z/in/photostream/
Only ridden it up the lane and back a few times and already I'm gaining confidence with it. Gonna keep an eye on those forks. Just received a very weird look from a group of local teens. -
Ladies and gents... Polobuild Mk5
Put together from spares after Mk4 went under the wheels of a car. Sad way for a polobike to die, should die in polo. Oh well.
Mk5 was made on super low budget of £90. Using cranks bars and stem from Mk4, an old Raleigh Dynatech MTB frame, Forks from a LBS spares box, and some NOS wheels donated from stock Marins from the late 90's with a LX rear derailleur acting as chain tensioner on a spaced out cassette hub with only 2 sprockets.
Rides surprisingly well!
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Ta daaa. Forks done. As you can see it's quite short so until I have a donor bike I won't be going up hills. Forks are less flexy than expected, rear end has some bounce to it. Sorted the chain coming off by using cassette gears - easier to get the right chainline as I think the original wheel is only 110mm wide
I now have the strange sensation that I'm really high up when I'm sat here by the computer
That's a tallbike for midgets.
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I'm seriously considering selling my falcon:
in favour of a yet to be determined 26" beast for the winter, i always feel rather unstable on that bike probably because i'm so upright and high off the ground. Not sure if i trust myself not to crash on a corner come the seriously wet weather
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Got this Giant Speeder 1986-87 from an elder man who had it from new and he never liked it, only used it too work one week.
It was hanging in his garage and was on its way too the dumpster, so my Question?
Fixed or save?Nice find, I would keep it geared and maybe add some Aero brake levers for a more comfy position on the hoods and better braking and it would be sweet - I like older giant's - don't see too many of them in the UK
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Fixed or save?
What are the parts like?
I'm guessing, but they don't look especially topend. It seems a shame to fuck around with a bike in (what looks like) original condition, but if it fills a hole in your stable I'd say fixed.
As it's got mudgaurd bosses, I'd go with the existing colour scheme and add polished mudgaurds and run as a pretty beater.
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I'll second the call to save it. New brake levers, pads and tape and that could be a really nice daily rider. There are just to many frames that have been sacrificed in the name of fixie.
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+1 for saving it.
Looks to be in decent nick, so just add aero levers (cost pennies), cable inners, some comfy grip tape (again can be pennies) and some 'guards for winter.
Far too many fixie conversions about, and TBH they are a bit 'last year' ;)I also haven't seen any Giants of much age, early 90s was the oldest I've seen, quite like the old logo.
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I'm seriously considering selling my falcon:
in favour of a yet to be determined 26" beast for the winter, i always feel rather unstable on that bike probably because i'm so upright and high off the ground. Not sure if i trust myself not to crash on a corner come the seriously wet weather
such a classy ride though..
Utility bike is so very tempting. I'm going to convert my IRO into a winter beast I think. Going to be rad as fuck
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Angled so all the pull is in line with your arm.