Current Projects chat and miscellany

Latest project done :)

1984 Koga Miyata Proracer S bought as a frame & forks off here

Spec list
Frame: Koga Miyata Proracer S (60cm)
Fork: Kinesis aluminium - 1" ahead
Headset: Campag Chorus
Stem: Synchros 1" ahead 120mm road stem
Handlebar: Nitto Grand Raundoneur
Bar Tape: Brooks
Brake Levers/Brifters: Cane Creek SCR5
Brake Calipers: Campag Veloce 2010
Brake Pads: Standard Campag
Brake Cables: Shimano inner with white Demolition BMX outer
Shifters: Shimano 600 Aero
Front Derailleur: Shimano Dura Ace 7700
Rear Derailleur: Shimano Dura Ace 7700
Derailleur Cables: ?????
Cassette: Shimano Dura Ace 7700
Chain: SRAM PC951
Cranks: Shimano Ultegra
Chainrings: Specialities Alize
Bottom Bracket: Shimano Ultegra
Pedals: Shimano SPD,s
Rims: Mavic Open Sport 32 hole
Hubs: 2010 Shimano Tiagra
Hub Skewers: 2010 Shimano Tiagra
Nipples: Don't know
Spokes: DT Swiss
Tyres: Continental Ultrasport
Tubes: Continental
Saddle: Brooks Swallow
Seatpost: cheap aluminium till I finalise the seating position
Seatpost Binder: Standard
Bottle Cage: Spesh Aluminium
Extras: Polished Hope bar plugs
Weight: no scales

^frankenbike.

new project, 12" wheeler, it used to be electric, but i took the motor and all unnecessary cabling off. just need to get a seat £ post, and put some different tyres.

What the hell Crane?!

Needs some better pedals and a new saddle, but for £150 i'm chuffed. remarkably light too, just over 25lb.

I'm almost tempted to get a blot on cog, al la xander's green machine.

Might have too sell a bike though as i've now got 5 and i'm running out of room to keep them all.

Finally finished the Dolan. Can't wait to get it out on the track!

copy cat

final product:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/57282370@N03/with/5858237786/

Roy:

This is Roy, he was born today, with thanks to Theoryswine and 36x18.

Pedals are temporary, will become spds this weekend.

I am happy.

that's nice. Especially like the wheels.

copy cat

To be fair, your is more functional.

Needs some better pedals and a new saddle, but for £150 i'm chuffed. remarkably light too, just over 25lb.

I'm almost tempted to get a blot on cog, al la xander's green machine.

Might have too sell a bike though as i've now got 5 and i'm running out of room to keep them all.

that looks awesome fun... taking it down the local trails or hitting the street?

I think the wheelset is probably worth >£150!

yasi, swinnerton is loverly!!!

yasi, swinnerton is loverly!!!

scorch speaks the truth. My favourite bit is the curvy brake cable - gives it a certain something.

scorch speaks the truth. My favourite bit is the curvy brake cable - gives it a certain something.

its his beard :)

yasi, swinnerton is loverly!!!

that's nice. Especially like the wheels.

Thank you guys, i'm very proud :)

Yep, that's the route you need to take but if you're saying the outters lead to crap tension in the cables you're still going to need to remove the bartape and swap the outters then. Or replace them.

All my STI/Ergo levers run Left lever/left cable stop and Right lever/Right cable stop.

And once again that very precise problem had been adressed in great length by Sheldon Brown...

"Most bicycles with handlebar-mounted shifters run the rear cable on the right, the front on the left. This causes some awkwardness in routing the length of housing from the shift lever to the frame stops. Due to the need to allow these housings to be long enough to permit the bars to be turned all the way back and forth, the housings often wind up making a reverse bend--for instance, the rear will go from the shifter, which is on the right, swing forward and cross over past the centerline of the bicycle, then back over to the right side of the top tube, before heading down the down tube. These extra bends increase friction, and the fairly forcible contact between the housing and the side of the top tube can damage the finish.
A neat solution to this is to run the cables "criss-cross" style: The rear runs from the lever, (on the right) around the top tube, and to the cable stop on the left side of the downtube! The front cable crosses over similarly from the left side of the handlebar to the right side of the down tube."

http://www.sheldonbrown.com/cables.html

I was doing Sheldon's "Criss Cross" style without even knowing it.

copy cat

nah , just really slow at building it up. Had the frame for well over a month now.

I'm trying to decide what style bars to go for. Does anyone know of a good write up anywhere discussing the pros and cons of different style bars for different styles of riding.
Ta.

depends what kind of bike you're building and what kind of riding you'll be doing.....?

Town fixed bike (59 Steamroller). But i like to ride fast. Stuck between, risers, drops and mustache bars.
Want to run a front brake. TT is a tad long so bullhorns are out of the question.

Fancied doing some reading into the pro's and con's. Maybe it'll be a get one of each and try them out.

Roy:

This is Roy, he was born today, with thanks to Theoryswine and 36x18.

Pedals are temporary, will become spds this weekend.

I am happy.

Nice had a Swinnerton road bike, made by George Longstaff, who made yours? if you knoe

FIrst project of mine. Close to completion, and being used the way it was designed, to get me beer! Way too small and the seat looks ridiculous, but thats the only way I could fit the box of beers in it. Small sacrifices for the greater good.

And the roadbike, which has undergone some small changes such as white lizardskin bartape.

Also have a fixie project on the way, but that may take some time.

copy cat

copycats!

So so stoked with how it turned out. Had a few worries about how the alu would fare on Irish roads but it's ridden great so far. Shouts to Coventry Eagle for the frame!

So I just changed the wheel on the Bianchi for some (quite low-end) Mavic. Still better on the road than the old ambrosio/chorus wheels.

Oh and I have a question: to get the rear derailler lever together with the rear brake lever on the right of the handlebar (and the front levers on the left), I have to either not cross the gears cable in front of the head tube (not-so-good torsion of the cables) or cross the bare cables under the down tube( which is the current situation). Which one is better ?

Crossing the bare cables under the downtube shouldn't cause you any hassle. Specialized used to (and might even still) do this on ALL their bikes as a feature.

EDIT: Presuming the cables run through a plastic guide on the bottom of the bb shell, you may be able to replace this with one that crosses the cables there without them touching each other.

hey.
just finished my gazelle.
i bought the frame of vintz from the forum(thanks again!) here:
http://www.lfgss.com/thread65371.html
changed the fork for a chrome one that i had lying around for ages...still not sure if i like it better then the white one.
also i'm still in need of these: http://www.lfgss.com/thread66676.html

cheers

copycats!

This could go on for a while, there's also my Look 464, my brother's Avanti and my sister in law's Dolan if we're just pointing to black aluminium track frames built up with black components.

Don't mind me I'm just being difficult.

Sash, that is incredible!