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  • after all that could've photoshopped the stick....

    i am disappoint.

  • good effort, i struggle with taking porn-aspiring pics as well

    here's some collective advise from this thread/forum (guys, add up if i will miss anything):

    1. tire logos aligned on both wheels
    2. cranks aligned with either down- or seattube (may be hard to achieve, if you're not using something telescopic to stand the bike up)
    3. try to shoot from the point, level with the bike (ex - not when you're standing up)
    4. yeah, i guess if you're processing the pictures in any way, you may as well 'chop the stick or whatever you're using to stand the bike up
      lighting is important too - i think these pics are two bright, and mine are usually too dark, as i do it after work ((

    what did i miss?
    background may be - no chainlink fences or brick walls - it must be smthn nice

  • didn't notice the valve/logo alignment.

    for me, crank in line with chainstay, as it is, is how i roll.

    would like to see this photo taken from kneeling position.

  • what did i miss?

    1. Ignore Rules 1-4 if you like it anyway.
    2. There is no Rule #6.
    3. There are no objective rules to a subjective topic.
  • he said collective advice, not rules.

    scorch has merely summarised the aesthetics of photos of bikes thread....

  • he said collective advice, not rules..

    Doesn't seem to be much of a difference anymore.

  • didn't notice the valve/logo alignment.

    for me, crank in line with chainstay, as it is, is how i roll.

    would like to see this photo taken from kneeling position.

  • that's bettererer =)) but still wheels are not aligned, and you can see the left part of the dropbar...

  • didn't notice the valve/logo alignment...

    you're right, but i did not mentioned that because it's must when you put on the tires, innit? =))

  • that's bettererer =)) but still wheels are not aligned, and you can see the left part of the dropbar...

    Learning:) btw those tires are horrible to fit to wheels..

  • I do really like your bike! also quite like the fact you used a spanner to prop it up...

    that's bettererer =)) but still wheels are not aligned, and you can see the left part of the dropbar...

    ha

    you're right, but i did not mentioned that because it's must when you put on the tires, innit? =))

    true... standard init!

  • So I just changed the wheel on the Bianchi for some (quite low-end) Mavic. Still better on the road than the old ambrosio/chorus wheels.

    Oh and I have a question: to get the rear derailler lever together with the rear brake lever on the right of the handlebar (and the front levers on the left), I have to either not cross the gears cable in front of the head tube (not-so-good torsion of the cables) or cross the bare cables under the down tube( which is the current situation). Which one is better ?

  • Oh and I have a question: to get the rear derailler together with the rear brake on the right (and the front on the left), I have to either not cross the gears cable in front of the head tube (not-so-good torsion of the cables) or cross the bare cables under the down tube( which is the current situation). Which one is better ?

    eh?

  • left and right relate to the handlebar levers, edited.

  • So I just changed the wheel on the Bianchi for some (quite low-end) Mavic. Still better on the road than the old ambrosio/chorus wheels.

    Oh and I have a question: to get the rear derailler together with the rear brake on the right (and the front on the left), I have to either not cross the gears cable in front of the head tube (not-so-good torsion of the cables) or cross the bare cables under the down tube( which is the current situation). Which one is better ?

    Your shifters are different on both sides, so you have to swap brake cables, not gear cables. You cant swap shifters either unless you have double jointed fingers and can bend them in crazy ways.

    The cables going down the downtube go to each derailleur. Leave them as they are. The cables going below your bar tape are for your brakes, take the tape off and swap the inners and outters round. Then you'll have the rear brake on the RHS with your rear derailleur and your Front brake on the LHS with your front derailleur.

  • I'm sorry if I wasn't clear but this is difficult to explain. Of course I don't swap the levers themselves. I already have the setup I want (Rear brake and derailler -> RHS, front brake and derailler -> LHS).

    The thing is, under the bottom bracket the cable guides forces you to have the front derailler cable on the left, and the rear derailler cable on the right (to align with the derailler themselves).

    so if I don't cross the cables under the down tube, I have to do left lever (front) -> left boss (the thing behind the head tube where the cable housing stops) and right lever (rear) -> right boss. So no crossing of the gears cables & housing in front of the head tube, not so good for cable housing torsion when turning.

    Or I do left lever (front) -> right boss and right lever (rear) -> left boss. Then the cables & housing cross in front of the headtube, but I also have to cross the bare cable under the down tube: left boss (front) -> right cable guide under the bottom bracket and right boss -> left cable guide.

    I thought it was standard to have front LHS, rear RHS (given that the front brake cable goes to the right of the front brake caliper), and to have the gears on the same side of the brakes relative to front and rear. Or am I confused ?

  • so if I don't cross the cables under the down tube, I have to do left lever (front) -> left boss (the thing behind the head tube where the cable housing stops) and right lever (rear) -> right boss. So no crossing of the gears cables & housing in front of the head tube, not so good for cable housing torsion when turning.

    Yep, that's the route you need to take but if you're saying the outters lead to crap tension in the cables you're still going to need to remove the bartape and swap the outters then. Or replace them.

    All my STI/Ergo levers run Left lever/left cable stop and Right lever/Right cable stop.

  • You're confused and confusing us.

    Gear shifters are side specific (right hand side for rear derailleur, left hand for the front) but they are not side specific for the brakes, so you can use the right for either front or rear brake, and then vice versa on the left.

  • Thanks Pir0. I guess that idea I had that gear cable should always go LHS -> right cable stop and RHS -> left cable stop, crossing in front of the headtube was not right.

  • Finally finished the Dolan. Can't wait to get it out on the track!

  • Stealthy; nice.

  • Yeah I like the look of that.

  • Thanks guys! Pretty happy with how it came out, especially with the tight budget I did it on. Now all I've got to figure out is getting across central to Laner's brakeless so I can pick up a brake from him.

  • Yeah I like the look of that.

    It looks like my bike, destickered, with your wheels.

    #teamwin

  • Thanks guys! Pretty happy with how it came out, especially with the tight budget I did it on. Now all I've got to figure out is getting across central to Laner's brakeless so I can pick up a brake from him.

    Overground rail after 7pm. Or national rail from liverpool street to forest gate, after peak (possibly also 7?). I wouldn't personally be up for riding bow road brakless, as it's teeming with twats.

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Current Projects chat and miscellany

Posted by Avatar for emoxfag @emoxfag

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