Current Projects chat and miscellany

Kenneth Williams photo

@ rik.

The required pressure drops as the volume increases – I understand that. Not sure how this would affect puncture resistance.

I'd have thought a wider tyre has (slightly) more chance of picking up sharp debris.

volume??? no volume, area

they are bigger to pick up debris, but your weight is disperse in a bigger area, thats why they have lets chance for the flat

glockart that is glorious.
never seen so much mavic in one place aswell, must have taken ages to pull that lot together.

ages??? money!!!

Is that a cock ring?

^Small cock.

@Ed
what do you recommend between the Grand Bois Cerf Tyre 28mm and the Grand Bois Cypres Tyre 32mm for my classic tourer? they are both on sale at px atm.

They both perform very well, the Cypres is perhaps a little more comfortable.

My personal favourite is the Cypres, but it depend on what the max size tyres your tourer accepted/build to run at.

The Cerf is great for those who want a bit more comfort on their road bicycle instead of the usual harsh 23c.

^Small cock.

French threaded. Always smaller.

I'd have thought a wider tyre has (slightly) more chance of picking up sharp debris.

I though the same too, but thinking back I realise I get punctured with high pressure skinny tyres, but less so with bigger tyres at lower pressure.

Most noticeably the Schwable Fat Frank tyres at 2.35 (60c), it's puncture protection is lacklustre when compared to says, a Marathon Plus, but it still held fine despite going through several derbis and broken glasses that could easily write off a skinny tyres.

I have to say I'm not convinced either way. I'd never thought about it before.

I found this whilst doing some reading. Although that's more about energy and rolling resistance and tyre size.

French threaded. Always smaller.

Not true.

BB threads: 35mm > 1.370"
Lockring threads: 33mm > 1.290"

Cock off... Monsieur.

;p

Bought this, ended up paying a fair bit more than i wanted because of customs and exchange rates, but it came today and its pretty nice.

Going to build it up with some fitting components and see how i like it. Only ever had lugged road bikes and tig welded track frames so its kind of a first for the collection. Its fairly light, and the clearances are nice, ill update when its done.

dat colour

I do like the colour. Though it seems they couldn't be bothered to take the bottom headset cup and fork race off, but i can do that and clean them up. Weird because its a really nicely done paintjob.

I though the same too, but thinking back I realise I get punctured with high pressure skinny tyres, but less so with bigger tyres at lower pressure.

Most noticeably the Schwable Fat Frank tyres at 2.35 (60c), it's puncture protection is lacklustre when compared to says, a Marathon Plus, but it still held fine despite going through several derbis and broken glasses that could easily write off a skinny tyres.

Skinny tires need to be run at a higher pressure to avoid pinch flats. The combination of high pressure makes piercing punctures more likely, because the tube fabric is at a higher tension and (as said) the weight is concentrated in a smaller area. Wider tires can run at a lower pressure without increasing the risk of pinch flats and the risk of piercing punctures is lowered (less tension in the fabric of the tube, weight spread more widely).

dat colour

It is a good shade...

oh you poor thing.... this might have been one of your worst purchases so far. have you been reading this forum, like, at all?..

I thought it was about time I got round to making apost of some reason projects.

So first off is a ciooc frame that I have only just aquired, hopefully going to be a nice fixie conversion.

Needs a lot of work and I need some help! Here is the link to the detailed pics on flickr http://www.flickr.com/photos/60734120@N02/sets/72157626749833311/
I think it's a quality frame and a genuine ciocc, when i got it was all built up with C record :) taken what I could off but some bits are stuck :( So anyone got any ideas how to free a stuck stem, and bront brake caliper? Also anyone know what tool i need to get that downtube shifter off? And can I just use a normal lockring tool to shift the bb? I love the frame though especially the awesome bb shell :D

Next up is my koga miyata superwinner alloy.

this is how she currently looks wearing a full late 80's 105 group. The bike is the 1990 model and when finished will be weraing the original full sante group as well as all the other original parts some of which arepretty awesome, including the oringinal co2 canisters that fit to the underside of the dt, original seat post and rolls saddle (which has koga miyata where san marco normally is!), bottle cage e.c.t. I have nearly got the full group just need the rear mech. The only thing tht won't be original is the stem, I've opted for a 78 3ttt with the hinged clamp so i can easily switch between drops and tt bars. When in tt mode she will also have an aero seatpost and disc covers for the rear wheel :D

Finally a finshed cheap dawes fixie a build for someone a while ago

Quite pleased with the results considering a tight budget. Aerotrack wheels, 105 headset and bb, 105 front brake,itm stem stem, a respray and some cut risers. She felt very tight indeed and very solid even when doing a few light tricks. Oh and the pedals didn't stay like that, just for the handover :D

So let me know what you think and any advice on the ciocc would be great thanks.

All done. New wheelset + tyres, new forks after being hit by a car, new bars, stem and post. Its now ridiculously fast.

4 Attachments

very nice man.

very nice man.

+1

+2

What is the frame?

Not sure if I should have the frame re sprayed... Thoughts?

Why? Looks like a properly used bike rather than a pristine prOn machine.