-
• #42402
so here is my current problem. This is the back of the trike box
and these are the bars I want to attach
(they're huge!!!). I'm thinking of cutting them just above the curve at the base of the rise and clamping the bits to the corners of the box. These corners are made of steel and are quite strong. I'm not sure of how to do this. I've got one of these from a dynamo light and it seems to do the trick
http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/busch-and-muller-high-quality-aluminum-stay-fitting-bracket-bmd23-prod11215/
but it's quite pricey. does anyone know of any other bracket that could do a similar job?this is the current extent of the trike build, nearly there!
-
• #42403
I'm starting to think along those lines. Just trying to work out which way means I have to buy the least amount of stuff.
Cassettes are usually the best thing to change, as they wear anyway. But in this case I'd go for the trekking triple, and upgrade your cassette when it needs it. -
• #42404
but it's quite pricey. does anyone know of any other bracket that could do a similar job?
I'd be tempted to pop into a plumping supply shop and see what they have in the way of pipe brackets. If you could screw some solid C shaped rubber pipe grippers to the corners of the box. Then bolt a pipe bracket over the handlebar, pushing it against the rubber. You should get a good solid connection. I 'm not sure the steel section offers enough area though.
This bolted to the steel.
This over the top.
Looking great BTW.
-
• #42405
so here is my current problem. This is the back of the trike box
and these are the bars I want to attach(they're huge!!!). I'm thinking of cutting them just above the curve at the base of the rise and clamping the bits to the corners of the box. These corners are made of steel and are quite strong. I'm not sure of how to do this. I've got one of these from a dynamo light and it seems to do the trick
http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/busch-and-muller-high-quality-aluminum-stay-fitting-bracket-bmd23-prod11215/
but it's quite pricey. does anyone know of any other bracket that could do a similar job?this is the current extent of the trike build, nearly there!
thats badass, you've obviously got a lot of new stuff on there and homemade bits, but the old royal mail style tarp just makes it completely awesome looking (and anti-theft'ish).
whats inside the box? I'm hoping for a comfy but battered up old armchair, tv and tea mug holder, also there should be heavily patterned brown 1970's wallpaper on the internal walls. Maybe on the external walls as well, just because. -
• #42406
Looks really professionally done, very impressed.
-
• #42407
Means I'll have 4 pairs of cycling shoes though,
Only 4? I just did a quick count and found 10 pairs, not including the unopened spare pair of Lake CX170s in my bottom drawer.
-
• #42408
Drilled the old Holdsworth steel stem myself (but didn't hear any puppies yelping) and used a cable adjuster from an old GB brake lever.
That's a good effort! Nice one.
-
• #42409
Only 10/11 pairs ?
-
• #42410
and these are the bars I want to attach
does anyone know of any other bracket that could do a similar job?you could use a Downhill direct mount stem, just bolted onto the box.
like this...
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=49631but i guess you'd have to use some shims with that bar.
-
• #42411
Only 4? I just did a quick count and found 10 pairs, not including the unopened spare pair of Lake CX170s in my bottom drawer.
Thats 4 in use.
I have loads of various sports shoes in the loft. A fair few unused in boxes, including some pretty nasty Lidl road shoes.
-
• #42412
Imelda?
-
• #42413
@ Small fuzzy - I know. I have expensive tastes. So far experience with clipless shoes has proved that you buy cheap you buy twice.
I really liked the mavics I had - really comfortable, but then I bought sidis and couldn't believe how much better made they were. If they had carbon soles I would probably just stick with them but they don't and I get hot points after a few hours, nothing agonizing though so I can make do for now
-
• #42414
so here is my current problem. This is the back of the trike box
![](http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5014/5549806076_bb0a88bb89.jpg[/]and these are the bars I want to attach
[IMG]http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5178/5549227227_7d68194a8c.jpg[/]
(they're huge!!!). I'm thinking of cutting them just above the curve at the base of the rise and clamping the bits to the corners of the box. These corners are made of steel and are quite strong. I'm not sure of how to do this. I've got one of these from a dynamo light and it seems to do the trick
http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/busch-and-muller-high-quality-aluminum-stay-fitting-bracket-bmd23-prod11215/
but it's quite pricey. does anyone know of any other bracket that could do a similar job?this is the current extent of the trike build, nearly there!
[IMG]http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5175/5549220741_c30c408b6d.jpg[/]
Just a thought to make sure they're more secure, could you cut them, have them threaded and use a connecting piece of tubing. A bit like plumbing:
[IMG]http://i.ehow.co.uk/images/a05/mk/t7/join-galvanized-pipe-pvc-pipe-800X800.jpg)
-
• #42415
pretty sure that won't work/ be safe with bars, the wall thickness of bars is generally pretty small and the twisting force you would exert on the block would just rip the bars out of the threads.
A few well placed metal pipe clamps (maybe with a thin rubber shin to avoid them cutting into the chrome).
-
• #42416
whilst on the lookout for a proper road bike I thought i could make do with my NS trickywickey
Rides rather nicely on the rolling hills that cornwall seems to be made of..
What do you think?
-
• #42417
Dilemma. Have a '78 Colnago Super just about to go to Armourtex, a pair of basically NOS period Campag track hubs, silver Paul Royal Flush crankset and matching e-levers, Nitto B123AA bars and Jaguar stem, brown Regal saddle, NOS Benetto white retro bar tape, period Super Record calipers, Campag aero pedals with NOS white straps and Colnago pantoed aero seatpost. Oh, and new white decals.
Haven't quite decided on rims yet but has taken AGES to collect all the bits and it's literally my wishlist. Trouble is, despite the idea always being to build sympathetically so I can make it geared at some point, I'm now wondering whether I should build it fixed at all. I want to. But...
...would it be a crime?
-
• #42418
@doubledragon- looks like fun. are you using the disc rotor on the front or was it the only wheel you had?
clipless on a bike like that would be well fun. -
• #42419
^^Nothing wrong with building it fixed, but why on earth are you respraying a Colnago at Armourtex?
Just leave it as is.
-
• #42420
@doubledragon- looks like fun. are you using the disc rotor on the front or was it the only wheel you had?
clipless on a bike like that would be well fun.Yeah its amazing fun
Nope just the only wheel I have. Apart from the pedals and bars its my trick bike, I like clipless to do tricks...
And its surprisingly light too! And a tank
-
• #42421
It was a fairly cheap f+f because it's been sprayed before. Thought I'd get away with it as is, but the finish is a bit pisspoor. Have used Armourtex a couple of times on other builds, seem ok. Should I go elsewhere you think?
-
• #42422
Armourtex will protect the steel while you save up for the £200-£500 that restoring the original paint is going to cost.
-
• #42423
I would forget the paul cranks and brake levers. they don't fit your build. get some period correct campagnolo ones. are you getting the frame powder coated? you can get decals from ebay for about £30 from that guy in oz
-
• #42424
also the paul royal flush crankset is fucking hideous.
-
• #42425
I'm starting to think along those lines. Just trying to work out which way means I have to buy the least amount of stuff.