Current Projects chat and miscellany

My roadbike frame, fork, headset and seat-post clamp weighs around 1.8kg, so that does sound a little high.

However a track frame has to transmit power as efficiently as possible- is weight much of a consideration? Reinforcing the frame would push the weight up quite fast I would think.

2.5kg? Really? I would be pissd if a carbon /alu road frame set weighed that much. A decent mtb alu ht frame would weigh less than 2kg and carbon mtb fork less than 1kg :s

Your comparing apples with pears. You want a track frame to be robust and stiff, not light. Plus he's weighed it on the bathroom scales, which isn't the most accurate of measuring equipment.

just finished building this 30 year old nos peugeot super competion frame (cfx-10)

/attachments/36331

http://ldrkkps.blogspot.com/2010/12/peugeot-super-competion-cfx-10.html (dutch)
http://ldrkkps.blogspot.com/2011/02/peugeot-cfx-10-4.html

Hi, nice job!!!
Did you re-painted the frame? Or just a cleaning?

2.5kg? Really? I would be pissd if a carbon /alu road frame set weighed that much. A decent mtb alu ht frame would weigh less than 2kg and carbon mtb fork less than 1kg :s

Bathroom scales aren't the most accurate i imagine, also it was my weight + the frame combined. I'd like to know its actual weight to compare it to similar frames.

Bathroom scales aren't the most accurate i imagine, also it was my weight + the frame combined. I'd like to know its actual weight to compare it to similar frames.

My 54cm Look 464 is 2227g for the same fuselage group, my 53cm Koga FPT is 2110g with the stock fork, which seems light next to 2896g for my steel Fort with a lighter-than-stock fork, but seriously porky against my 585 road bike which is just 1424g.

The thing, there isn't much point in a track fuselage being much lighter than that, since a pair of proper racing wheels and a normal selection of robust parts will end up with a total pretty close to the UCI minimum of 6.8kg. The top end full carbon frames are just as heavy, they just keep making them stiffer until they get to the right weight

Hi, nice job!!!
Did you re-painted the frame? Or just a cleaning?

Just cleaned it.

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Mine is very stiff

oohh err missus

My build now complete. Decided to use drops instead of risers.

I used old inner tubes for the grips and whiskey bottle corks for plugs.

Close up of the handlebar engravings which I quite like.
The bars were only £9 off ebay. http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=320651979006&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT#ht_500wt_1134

You might want to adjusted the saddle angle but otherwise look pretty good.

^You reckon inner tubes will give you any grip like handlebar wrap would?

just finished building this 30 year old nos peugeot super competion frame (cfx-10)

/attachments/36331

http://ldrkkps.blogspot.com/2010/12/peugeot-super-competion-cfx-10.html (dutch)
http://ldrkkps.blogspot.com/2011/02/peugeot-cfx-10-4.html

Love this

mike I like tube-grip idea, did you open them up or just wrap'm round as they are

I like tubigrip

It's an unusual fetish, but knock yourself out

mike I like tube-grip idea, did you open them up or just wrap'm round as they are

Cut either size of the valve then cut down the middle opening it up. Give it a rinse with some water.. make sure its dry before applying it!

Start wrapping from the centre of the bar stretching the tube as you wrap. It will hold itself well but you will need to plug the ends with something.

A cut down wine bottle cork works nicely!

if you wrapped it from the center outwards you did it the wrong way.

i get the impression he didn't stick it down with tape at the start, which he wouldn't have managed if he had wrapped it the usual way.

if you wrapped it from the center outwards you did it the wrong way.

Tell me the right way then?? The way I do it works for me so should work for others.

i get the impression he didn't stick it down with tape at the start, which he wouldn't have managed if he had wrapped it the usual way.

Yes ... No tape involved!

Finally got the wheels into the Pompetamine, just waiting for cranks and it will be ridable, but not anywhere muddy with these tyres. "700x40" Marathon Supremes, ETRTO marked 42-622, blow up to 45.2mm when mounted on 38mm Kris Holm rims, which really pushes the clearance at the chainstays.

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'dales defiantly done. New bars (These: http://www.tokyofixedgear.com/shopexd.asp?id=3634) and a new gear ratio. Love it!

Close up of the handlebar engravings which I quite like.
The bars were only £9 off ebay. http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=320651979006&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT#ht_500wt_1134

Hi,
very nice bicycle.
Where did you get the stem?

Cheers

The usual way is to start from the ends and work up towards the middle. Means that it doesn't catch and fray when you pull on the drops.

Regards to inner tubes, they will have good grip, however they will have the tendancy to make your palms sweaty.