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• #33277
Ok the images dont seem to have appeared. i have listed the links in order.
Image 1. http://www.flickr.com/photos/30084498@N06/4885631153/
Image 2. http://www.flickr.com/photos/30084498@N06/4885658133/
Image 3. http://www.flickr.com/photos/30084498@N06/4886261744/
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• #33278
^ You need tools to remove those headset etc..
I would take it to the local bike shop on way to the amourtex if that's your plan for the powder coat.
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• #33279
below is what is left in bottom bracket shell. How do i remove it?
Dont, just make it loose and it will protect the threads and use the other side in the same way then use a sealed BB
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• #33280
below is what is left in bottom bracket shell. How do i remove it?
Dont, just make it loose and it will protect the threads and use the other side in the same way then use a sealed BB
Thanks, the left hand side is open...is that a problem? Only the right hand side has that piece on and it has been painted over. What tool do i need to loosen it and should I keep it on whilst its being sandblasted and powder coated?
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• #33281
A worthy investment.
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• #33282
@ negaatio- needs a rack bwoy!
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• #33283
It is a problem if you get powdercoat in there it will get in all the threads if you are having it blasted it will be easy to move that shell with a wrench when you having it done I can send you the other part to screw in.
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• #33284
It is a problem if you get powdercoat in there it will get in all the threads if you are having it blasted it will be easy to move that shell with a wrench when you having it done I can send you the other part to screw in.
Really appreciate your help and advice :)
What do you suggest i do about the forks? Do i need to remove anything?http://www.flickr.com/photos/30084498@N06/4886261744/ -
• #33285
Really appreciate your help and advice :)
What do you suggest i do about the forks? Do i need to remove anything?http://www.flickr.com/photos/30084498@N06/4886261744/You should really remove the crown race if you have a LBS not a halfords they will more than likley do it for a box of Jaffa cakes.
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• #33286
Nice, I contacted that man too a few weeks ago, but it was on hold and asked him to contact me if it didnt sell. .............Sounded like a really friendly (older) man over the phone.
Thanks for not buying the Gazelle mixte.
I'll look at it tomorrow evening and pick it up if it's okay.
Maybe I'll sell it again and then you got the 1st dibs ;-) -
• #33287
bps-dfp, beautiful bike! Just out of curiosity, which BB did you use to get a correct chainline (assuming 42 mm) with the 49d's? I have been experimenting with my 49d's and found the longest ISO BB (115,5 mm Campag triple) not long enough to prevent the crankset spider from hitting the BB cup.
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• #33288
the longest ISO BB (115,5 mm Campag triple)
TA Axix is available in 125mm, 122mm, 119mm, and of course shorter.
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• #33289
Thanks for not buying the Gazelle mixte.
I'll look at it tomorrow evening and pick it up if it's okay.
Maybe I'll sell it again and then you got the 1st dibs ;-)Haha, send him my regards.
Think he'll be kind of flabbergasted in that case.Result of a 3.5hr drive around The Low Lands:
-Koga RecordPro '91 teamcolors with Corima carbon clinchers, Cinelli Tempo etc
-Mavic Open 4 CD 650c clincher on Sh600 tricolor.
-? 650c tubular in one of those where-did-the-spokes-go-hubs (can't remember the name?)
-2 Wolber TX on Sh600 tricolor.Now I first need to sell some stuff to finish that Koga though..
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• #33290
bps-dfp, beautiful bike! Just out of curiosity, which BB did you use to get a correct chainline (assuming 42 mm) with the 49d's? I have been experimenting with my 49d's and found the longest ISO BB (115,5 mm Campag triple) not long enough to prevent the crankset spider from hitting the BB cup.
That's my bike; thanks for the nice comments.
I had a similar problem. I'm using an old TA 344 115mm axle with old TDC cups. That gives a reasonable chainline for a fixed hub, and means that the crankset spider or the chainring bolts don't rub against the BB cup. Because the crank has to be as close to the BB as possible, I found that I needed to get a fixed cup that was small enough to spin inside the circle of the bolts, if you get what I mean. A Campagnolo cup was slightly too big - the bolts caught against its outer edge as the crank spun and so meant it didn't turn properly.
I think really you need old TA or Stronglight cups.
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• #33291
This is the finished product of what was a very ill guerciotti, It had a ratty red and white paintjob with a cracked BB shell..
The coins were missing out of the fork crown,...(to be fair I have only ever seen round coins on gios' and in 5 months of looking I haven't seen any...so I cut two out of a piece of aluminium and fashioned them to fit. the seat post is to be black eventually...or the whole of everythig else silver...we will see...;D
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• #33292
Tee Tee, apologies. It was late and i didn't bother looking. Still, nice bike!
Interesting about the 115 TA BB. I had the same problem test fitting the crank to the aforementioned Campag BB. I then ground off the tabs on the cup to allow the crank spider to run over the BB cup. When I torqued it to spec, the spider hit the cup on the flat side, it bottomed out.
Intersesting thing about TA Axix BB's. Of course I had looked into those, but for the life of me could not find info on whether they are ISO or JIS. I e-mailed TA, they said it is ISO. I then tried to order one through Spa Cycles (quite an authority on French parts) and they say TA are wrong and it is definately JIS and that TA are misinforming the public!!!
I have found that the 49d's will sit perfectly on a 113 mm JIS BB, so will likely go that route. I am using the cranks for a weight weenie project. I could get a 640 grms crankset (including chainring) and BB combo, yay!
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• #33293
my first build finally DONE!
Any suggestion for front light?
Also trying to find alternative way to carry the lock, kinda looks ugly that way (I'm a girl.. sorry!)I like this. Did I see you riding it at Spitalfields yesterday??
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• #33294
Intersesting thing about TA Axix BB's. Of course I had looked into those, but for the life of me could not find info on whether they are ISO or JIS. I e-mailed TA, they said it is ISO. I then tried to order one through Spa Cycles (quite an authority on French parts) and they say TA are wrong and it is definately JIS and that TA are misinforming the public!!!
And so is Sheldon Brown. The funny thing about the JIS/ISO issue is that any supposed differences seem to disappear when you actually start measuring the end product.
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• #33295
And so is Sheldon Brown. The funny thing about the JIS/ISO issue is that any supposed differences seem to disappear when you actually start measuring the end product.
And even more interesting when you start mixing and matching I am using a Dura ace 104 with a Miche Chainset perfect chainline.
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• #33296
Difference in overlap / chain line is approx. 2 mm.
Taper is the same, just measured from a different reference point. -
• #33297
ah thanks :-) yeah, that was me riding. I went to the market to look for some leather bits to use as a saddle bag but couldn't find any.
I like this. Did I see you riding it at Spitalfields yesterday??
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• #33298
Can you please mercilessly judge my Boss' new bike. He needs to learn.
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• #33299
Bizarrely, I actually quite like that.
must be a friday 13th thing
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• #33300
not too keen on the yellow but it looks fine.
is there supposed to be something wrong with it?
Hey guys. I need some advice...i am planning on getting my frame powder coated. I have stripped the frame of parts but i am kinda stuck with a few bits and how i go about removing them.
below is what is left in bottom bracket shell. How do i remove it?
How do I go about removing the chrome rings (dont know the name) on the headtube?
Lastly should i remove anything on the forks before the respray?
Any help and advice is much appreciated. Apologies if this post is in the wrong thread.. I am a newbie.