Current Projects chat and miscellany

Due to the stupidity of hoops ...I kept reading it as "pinata 'rello".

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If you are running Sugino 75s, Phils and an Izumi Super Toughness then you need a top notch BB. Centaur is good, but there is no point on having such an expensive chain if the BB isn't top of the game. Go Phil. The BB is better then the hubs.

I'm using Phil hubs, Campag Pista cranks and a Centaur BB - it's run perfectly well for many hundreds of miles. Saying that Centaur is a weak link is nonsense, it's a nice bit of kit.

damn straight, i have been running a cheap campag (£12) for 3 years,(and at least 15000m) i know at least 3 people who have gone through 2 or more high end b/b's in that period.

The Centaur BB is the cheap link rather than the weak link. The rider would not notice or be compromised by the Centaur rather than Phil (it is not as though the Centaur slows you down or flexes all other place is it?
To me the fact it is a outdated square taper BB is the weak link! (puts on flame suit)

If you are running Sugino 75s, Phils and an Izumi Super Toughness then you need a top notch BB. Centaur is good, but there is no point on having such an expensive chain if the BB isn't top of the game. Go Phil. The BB is better then the hubs.

This is so much towaddle I can't be bothered to even start.

I think the only bit that makes sense is

'there is no point on having such an expensive chain'

(Although it is grammatically incorrect, obviously)

lol

Nice job. Except you started at the top. You should start at the ends of the bars and work up. That way you aren't pushing down against the overlap.

I always start at the top, I have been doing that for years, if you give good tensionning to your tape, it NEVER moves, I cycle every day all year long (even in the summer when glue has a tendancy to "melt" a little. You secure the end of the tape by returning into the bars and inserting the bar ends... Pushing down against the overlap was never an issue in my experience since the edge of the tape is thinner.
The big advantage is that you don't need to use the horrible bit of sticky tape that always ruins the look of bar tape, especially the expensives ones...
Here with Brooks for instance:

It would have killed me to put the thick coton tape provided by Brooks.

I agree with you that with the inner tube tape it might not hold forever since there is no glue...

Loic

Loic, would it be possible to make this pic clickable to expand it - that way the detail you explained would be more obvious
thanks
also would like to see what's happening in your room :) kidding

I always start at the top, ..............blah.............blah........ no glue...

Loic

i'm a top to bottom and tuck in with the stopper roller too.

Loic, would it be possible to make this pic clickable to expand it - that way the detail you explained would be more obvious
thanks
also would like to see what's happening in your room :) kidding

http://img41.imageshack.us/img41/8730/brooksleathertapeontrac.jpg

Loic

noice, thanks

for a clean look the top to bottom bar wrap method is really good.
However one really big disadvantage is that if it loosens at any point, you have to take the whole thing off and start all over again.
with taping you just re tape.

Now that I have the bike, I've already started doing a couple change on it to make it into a modern dutch bike, the new Nitto handlebar I got for cheap make a whole difference in how it ride; it felt more stable, upright and relaxed than the original bar that came with the bike, it feel more like my old dutch bike without the drawback;

the other necessary change is the kickstand, originally it's fine, but because of the nature of this bike, it will fall on it's side if there is even a small amount of weight on the rack, so I upgraded it to a double legs kickstand for extra stability, much easier when loading bricks for instance.

The 35c tyres despite being white gave me a lots of grip much to my surprise, but it'll be change to a 38c Schwalbe Road Cruiser soon, it look like the mudguard have some room for 38c tyres.

I've also removed the front dérailleur, it never got used ever since it came out of the shop, so it's pretty redundant, 8 speed is plenty enough for general riding either way, hopefully in the next 6 months I'll change the rear into a Sturmey Archer S-RC3 3 speed coaster and the front to a SA dynamo drum brake (to powered a front light), never liked the unpredictable feel of rims brakes, the other thing I'll add is a frame fixing front rack, a much better alternative to the more expensive CETMA rack.

the metamorphose has begun

@ ed, I can't recommend the Vittoria Randonneur Trail 38s enough.
Despite your issues with that brand, they're pretty simple to fit
(http://www.wiggle.co.uk/p/cycle/7/Vittoria_Randonneur_Trail_City_Tyre/5360035187/)

I have pretty good experience with the road cruiser, plus they're £10 at the local bike shop, save me a good £7 over the Randonneur, thank for the recommendation though.

I'll also sell the Specialized white tyres for £15 a pair soon for those who want big white tyres.

Ed, how good is the road cruiser against puctures?? will be good to skid the shit out of it?? and before anyone says, no I'm not breakless

a proper sit-up-and-beg-winter-type-hack, there Ed.

You're one to talk! you got an rear aerospoke on your bike, why should I not put you on ignore?

spokist, that is.
because it's a stupid, dumb arse reason?

did you get that frame made up Ed ? just curious really.

Ed, anwser my questions, please, as you have experience

no its a globe haul

I never use them for skidding, so I has no idea how they held up for that, as for puncture, I never had one for 6 months so it must be decent enough.

and for your information, Mr.EdSquabble
this time i wasn't taking the p!ss!

Mumbles means business