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• #3677
mmmmmmmm bronica
Its like a 2.2kg battery powered optically sexual mistress.
Well, that was yesterday. today just picked up.....
Contax IIa + sonnar 50mm f/2
Kiev IIa copy + jupiter (?) 50mm f/2
Biogon 21mm f/4.5
Zeiss Jena 135mm f/2.8
and some bits. Wasn't cheap though, but fucking sexual, like I'm actually going to have to keep it next to the bed, just to make sure no-one else has their way with it. -
• #3678
Anyone interested in a Polaroid Shackman Multishot?
For sale below:
http://www.lfgss.com/thread81131.html#post2733829 -
• #3680
^^^ :*(
Not that i use a whole lot of kodak slide, infact probably haven't used any in the last 3years! Always end up with Fuji
Anyone else noticed the steady and relentless price jack on 7dayshop? average colour 35mm roll is now up to about £4!!! -
• #3681
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• #3682
I need to replace the seals on my FM.
The ready made kits seem pretty expensive, any cheaper alternatives I can fashion myself? It's only foam at the end of the day right?
All of them are knackered so I assume I need different thickness?
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• #3683
on ebay there is a guy who sells ONLY light seal kits. about £10 posted for the general one with glue (its just pVA) and bits and pieces.
Depending what needs done it'll do about 10-20 cameras.
I always find the seals around the edges of the door (at film & hinge end) are knackered first, then mirror buffer, and the ones on the rest of the back door generally aren't too bad, even when they look it. On some cameras those bits of seal are only there to prevent the door rattling :DWith the glue (PVA) its really easy to screw it up. Add very small amount to bottom of seal strip, then allow to dry for 1-3minutes, then wipe with a cloth the sides of the 'U' shape section so only the bottom has glue, otherwise the seal cannot flex and you'll not even be able to shut the film door ;)
Also put a bit of masking tape across 35mm pane to prevent dirt / dead seal dropping into back of lens/ mirror/flapper box/ winding mechanism as its sticky and nasty and is a PITA to remove.
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• #3684
Awesome, don't mind paying if it will do quite a few cameras. Thanks for the tips, I'll get on it
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• #3685
I brought one of the light kits for my electro GSN. Worked fine and I've got loads of the stuff left.
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• #3686
I bought some light seals off ebay... no idea where I put them... they're in here somewhere...
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• #3687
^ that's nice Tina Kino
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• #3688
A very long shot but I am going to ask anyway. I am making a piece of work that needs as many 35mm film canisters as possible, not the plastic containers but the actual metal canisters. I have a couple of stable sources that I could go and collect them regularly, but I need around a couple of 1000s in total so I am just wondering when you guys go to a lab to process your films next, could you ask the lab if they have any 35mm canisters they could give away? If they do, could you either take them for me and I will get you a pint or 2 as payment or ask the lab to hold them and drop me a line so I could go collect them?
I know it's a rather weird thing to ask, and I would go to every single lab in London if time allows, and I am trying my best to call around and visit places, but I am getting a little desperate as I totally under estimated the amount of canisters I need, so I thought if you could give me a little help, I might stand a better chance of getting the work done sooner.
If you have read to here so far, could I just say that I need the canisters not broken, as in they top can't have been opened for the neg to be taken out. Metro, for example, unfortunately opens the canisters by breaking the top so even though they were happy to keep them for me and they have loads, those are no use to me as the canisters have been broken.
Pretty please!!
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• #3689
little confused - don't most labs open the films by popping the tops off? but even if they do as long as you have both bits it's not difficult to put them back on? I guess it's a pain if you're talking 1000s of the things, but just not sure about how many labs cut the film out without opening the cans...
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• #3690
Most do, but some don't, one of my sources (the uni where I work) have a self service C-41 machine, so you'd have to us a little machine to take the tongue out 1st, this way, the cans are perfect. Admittedly, opening the top is a much quicker way to get the neg out, taking the tongue out can be a pain at the back side.
I have tried putting the bits back together, but it just doesn't look good enough and is harder than imagined.
So if anyone can help, it'd be most appreciated.
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• #3691
Or if anyone has any very dated and / or unwanted 35mm films that they won't be using for the intended purpose, then I'd be delighted to make good use of the canisters.
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• #3692
My gf's cousin works in a minilab and they have an automatic leader retrieval machine so I presume they unspool and cut rather than bust the canister open. Only problem, the minilab and I are in Glasgow. It's hardly a busy shop either so probably not going through many canisters a week/month etc.
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• #3693
^ Would it be OK to ask anyway? I am more than happy to pay for postage as standard parcels don't cost much at all.
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• #3694
Yeah no worries, I'll have a word.
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• #3695
Haven't posted in here in ages.... Here are a few shots from a recent trip to India at the tail-end of last year. Nikon FG, with a mixture of film.
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• #3696
thanks lae.
some nice shots hoops!
like the one on the boat, though i'd flip the image maybe. -
• #3697
Yeah no worries, I'll have a word.
Thanks mate, really appreciate it. :-)
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• #3698
i like your lion, Tina. never been to berlin tiergarten.
posting some dolphins and a deer. they all come from ukraine.
cheers,
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• #3699
Thanks, it's an old picture I took in Munich though;
never been to the Berliner Tiergarten either! -
• #3700
Nice work hoops, the last three in particular I really like.
fally represent