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• #8277
@Loisc1, I've just looked at the photo of your bike again. It is worse than I could ever imagine. My worst nightmares will never hold as much dread as the thought of your view of what a bicycle is for.
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• #8278
^^
love how the guy is still holding onto his umbrella
Louisc1...welcome to bike school. you're education is free assuming you're thick skinned and otherwise emotionally stable.
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• #8279
this has to be a wind up.
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• #8280
louis - have you tried it with the forks backwards?
mc - please stop it. it's rude, telling him to sell his bike. who the fuck are you?!
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• #8281
Thanks for the suggestions.
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• #8282
sorry, I was joking.
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• #8283
LouisC1, if there are sound mechanical reasons to alter certain components then I'd do so, that makes perfect sense. Aesthetically I quite like your efforts, they're interesting and look a darn sight better than some that are considered 'the right way'. As long as you make it safe, and it's comfy to ride, ignore the bleating of the sheep.
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• #8284
To make it safe it needs correct forks and wheel
plus a new chain that fits
probably handlebar and stem
and tyre
and Inner tube
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• #8285
Oh seatpost too
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• #8286
and you riding it?
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• #8287
Fucking hope not
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• #8288
It's not just about aesthetics, it's about safety too. Having the forks like that will put stresses through the frame that it wasn't designed to cope with. It is the same reason that if you have an mtb designed for suspension forks, and you want to make it rigid, you have to get corrected forks. They maintain the geometry of the frame, relative to the ground so that the stresses in the frame are correct.
Your new position lengthens the wheelbase and puts increased stresses through the downtube, headtube, forks and probably top tube. This could cause early catastrophic failure of the frame. For safety's sake, at least, put the original wheel on again...
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• #8289
LouisC1, if there are sound mechanical reasons to alter certain components then I'd do so, that makes perfect sense. Aesthetically I quite like your efforts, they're interesting and look a darn sight better than some that are considered 'the right way'. As long as you make it safe, and it's comfy to ride, ignore the bleating of the sheep.
Thanks for the words. You are right it has to be safe in first place and I will consult a framebuilder about the stress points and what can be done about that. Or take back the 650c fork/wheels (I have them already) and use risers - I want to ride her on streets as I do with my other fixies/hybrids.
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• #8290
just swap your seatpost around the right way, put the original forks and wheel on.
and ride it. -
• #8291
...I usually (nearly always in fact) bite my tongue but fuck me sideways, that is a true abortion of a bike...
New quote of the week!
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• #8292
just swap your seatpost around the right way, put the original forks and wheel on.
and ride it.Would be a massive improvement.
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• #8293
just swap your seatpost around the right way, put the original forks and wheel on.
and ride it.The seatpost is in its correct position. It is a triathlon seatpost - Profile Design Fast Forward. Using the 700c wheel rises the front, therefore the road stem went all way back so you can not get the saddle parallel to ground.
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• #8294
LouisC1, if there are sound mechanical reasons to alter certain components then I'd do so, that makes perfect sense. Aesthetically I quite like your efforts, they're interesting and look a darn sight better than some that are considered 'the right way'. As long as you make it safe, and it's comfy to ride, ignore the bleating of the sheep.
Sense at last! Let him do what he wants. Each to his own. Stop telling him to sell it like he's not worthy somehow. Its just a bike.
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• #8295
The seatpost is in its correct position. It is a triathlon seatpost - Profile Design Fast Forward.
But it's the wrong seatpost for your bike. I would go so far as to say it's the wrong seatpost for any bike, since it is designed to make a position the frame wasn't built for. Although it might be acceptable as a temporary post for somebody who wants to experiment with a forward position for triathlon, the very fact that you have felt compelled to rape your Telfer with it (I hope you lubed it first) should tell you, along with all the other signs, that you have the wrong bike.
Since it has not been commented before, let me just draw everybody's attention to the pressed in head tube extenders at both ends. FFS, put it back how God and nature intended and go and buy a bike which fits.
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• #8296
The seatpost is in its correct position. It is a triathlon seatpost - Profile Design Fast Forward.
Well, gosh, darn it, he is correct.
Just out of curiosity, why this seat post?
It is designed to change the seat tube angle from 73 deg to a 78 deg, for making a normal road frame more triathlon friendly, geometry wise...
edit, MDCC, hive mind, beat me to it, and said it better...
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• #8297
Since it has not been commented before, let me just draw everybody's attention to the pressed in head tube extenders at both ends.
I wondered what they were... Do they make it barspinnable?
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• #8298
The seatpost is not in the correct position, nor are the forks or wheel as they belong on different bikes
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• #8299
Before:
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• #8300
Looks really good in it's original state. Oh man...
Using a 650c wheel will NOT require a riser. It will require you to do the right thing, and sell this (once) beautiful bike to someone who cares, someone who isn't obviously totally blind... someone who knows a thing or two about bike aesthetics, someone who knows about safety and stresses.
Why do you think you get suspension corrected forks, and limits on the travel of forks on certain mtb frames?
If a frame is designed for 100mm travel forks, putting a fork with no correction, or 200mm travel will change the stresses in the tubing. This leads to fatigue in the metal, and the headtube will snap off. FFS, STOP RIDING THAT MONSTROSITY AND SELL IT.