Let's offroad / mountain bike / mtb / ride dirt

Fuck it, I'll do everything and then work out what spares I'd need and how much they'll be.

Just need to get some of those pliers to get those weird locking washers off.

Looks good, will give it a try

If this servicing is for the wrecked 80mm forks from Pinkbike I think you're throwing good £ after bad. Decent Rebas both 26" and 29" can be had for about £120 and will have resale value.

Will replacement seals work on such scored uppers - could be an expensive mistake if they still leak.

Blargh.

Pix of fucked Rebas? I had a set of Pikes with gashed uppers, they worked fine apart from in the wet, when they would seize and require a lowers service.

Dude, just get a set of seals and wipers, they'll be ok and probably won't get too much worse

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The black/lines are gunk that needs to be cleaned off.

Check the air shaft for scratches.

If it's good and holds air and feels smooth when cycled might be worth a punt popping new seals in. Reba service kit is like £20 or something.

What does the scored area feel like?

Those stanchions are fucked. I wouldn't bother with anything beyond a basic lower keg service. It isn't even worth buying new seals. The scoring that you see under the gunk and oil is the warning. Just do a lower leg service and ride them into the ground.

Cheers everyone. Was holding air perfectly (as far as I could tell) before I took them apart. Didn't seem to be oozing. The scoring is minimal, but you can feel it. I've read about people using mail polish varnish, so may as well do that as well.

I've used polishing with the back of a teaspoon to remove scratches on a damper shaft before - its worked, but it takes ages, and that's only with tiny scratches.

The bad boys on the top left (bottom out bumpers?) - They sit below the bushing about half way down, yeah? Should I grease them at all?

I guess it'll find its way to wherever it's supposed to be regardless of where I put it.

Got another ridiculous seatpost...

Just picked up a cheap Voodoo Canzo full sus bike. Got play in the top shock mounts which attaches to the rocker arm.

Shock is an RS Airo R. TF tuned have various 12.7mm OD mounts but I need to know the width and ID.

Anyone know what spec I need? Voodoos websites are all broken.

Following the above photo, @BareNecessities pointed out the rather excessive amount of spacers. I popped those on when I first got the fork with the intention of playing around with the stack height and seeing what works best. Evidently this slipped my mind! What are people's thoughts on ideal height? Is it just as simple as slamming it?

I realise it will in the end come down to personal preference, but as I have to ride 20 miles to get to some half decent trails to try it out, a quick guide would be invaluable!

Go for a ride with your massive set of allen keys and try moving the stem down in 5mm increments, until it starts to feel too low.

Then do one full ride ( 2-3 hrs ) to see if you get on with it BEFORE sawing anything. Saying that, if you took too much off, you could soon make up the height with some risers.

I reckon that's what I'm going to do. Though it does mean a solo ride as I don't think I'd have any friends left if I stopped every 15 minutes to change my stack height, it was bad enough having to stop to adjust my saddle height!

Last time I done the same on a road bike I ended up with the stem slammed as the front end just kept feeling more and more planted. Fingers crossed the same applies here!

I'd just slam it, every 29er I've ridden has felt lofty and ponderous so as low a front end as possible will load up your front end up for greater grip and counteract your weight shifting back with the short stem. if that's too low to pop the front up then lift it a touch or just try harder. Wide bars will also bring your weight forwards, but be mindful of the purpose of the bike, you probably don't want DH bars if it's an xc beast.

It looks fast anyway.

Is that a gravity dropper?

As well as grip (and I agree weight on the front is good) there's being able to ride the bike for the time you want to without hand and neck pain. If you plan on doing rides like SDW then be cautious about getting too heavy with the hacksaw - what's fine for 2-3hrs can be hell for 12. One way to give yourself flexibility is to test with the stem negative rise - if you've gone too far then flipping will restore height.

Also don't forget that standing on the pedals with your hands on the bars (ie attack position) forces you to raise your head to look ahead ie testing on a non tech ride might lead you to slam more than you should.

Not quite! It's a TMARS, Taiwanese GD clone. Apparently compatible with GD spares though which is awesome.

Managed to get one new for around 55 pounds so even if I run it into the ground within a year it's money well spent in my eyes!

Definitely wanted a mechanical dropper for ease of servicing too, unpacked it, disassembled it, re-greased everything and put it back together in around 10 minutes!

Was definitely wary of testing it for anything less than a few hours riding before doing anything permanent. My normal rides are generally 30km of road/towpath then about 4-5 hours on the trails the 30km back home again so hopefully will be a good test.

And thankfully I've stopped with the endurance MTB riding!

Does anyone have a pair of trigger shifters, 2spd x 10spd knocking around they want to get rid of?