Wheelbuilding / Wheel Building / Wheel build help

i see a trend there..lol

thanks

im a heavy rider

Just so we're all on the same page, define heavy. Some road racing whippets think 80kg is pretty lardy, whereas Hippy and I tend to think anything <120kg is in the middleweight class :-)

im 117kg and shrinking luckily....

but i do miss the pies

im 117kg

Then definitely go the 25C/A119 route if they fit

looking at my frame choice i may need to tweak it.. but like i said all along id rather get the right parts..

il go with your guidance mdcc thanks

I am planning on using veloflex master tyres ( I have the 20mm for the front and the 22 for the back) and I wanted to use a pair of Mavic CXP 14's to Dura ace hubs via CX ray spokes. I want to go 32 radial on the front, 36 2x on the back.

After doing some reading and gathering opinions, I gather that the weak link in the chain is the CXP14 rims - these look the biz, but they are fairly heavy and don't have a machined braking surface which I think would be a bonus. they're NOS and would sell for decent money - am I better off trading in for a different rim?

I'm in a quandry because until I'm happy with my parts I can't buy the CX-rays, and I don't want to have to buy them twice if I go for the wrong rims. Everyone's talking about the Archetypes, but wide rims look pretty shit on a skinny tubed bike, and I have the skinny Veloflex ready to go. I'm 85kg, and I don't need training wheels, I really want a nice old school set - unless I can find some NOS Mavic open SUP Ceramics, which ones should I get?

iv done nearly 2000 miles since june last year on 23c and been fine

but i must add the last 2 months on the old fixie running 27" with fat tyres is very pleasant.. but the pre cursa frame wont take 25c i dont think

you'll get 28c tyres in a precursa no trouble. probably even bigger.

I want to go 32 radial on the front, 36 2x on the back.

No you don't, radial looks silly with all those spokes. Go 3X all round for a classic look

Everyone's talking about the Archetypes, but wide rims look pretty shit on a skinny tubed bike, and I have the skinny Veloflex ready to go.

Deep looks odd, wide doesn't. They should be talking about TB14s, not Archetypes. Also, get a matching 22mm front tyre. 23mm wide x 14mm deep TB14 will look more classical than 19mm wide x 18mm deep Ambrosio Excellence, which would be the other obvious choice.

Is there some science behind using plain gauge spoke for the drive side rear? Instead of using doublebutted

Spacycles swear by doing it, but if I was buying now spokes it would make life easier just to get all ACI double butted

And why are cyclebasket so damn cheap for spokes?

I think plain gauge are less "stretchy" meaning better power transfer and less lateral flex of the rear wheel under power.

Is there some science behind using plain gauge spoke for the drive side rear?

They are stiffer, and some heavily loaded and heavily dished wheels need the help. I think if you really needed them (heavy touring bikes, tandems) it would be better to look at reducing the dish by using a wider hub, and indeed that's what many people do.

And why are cyclebasket so damn cheap for spokes?

It's not that they are especially cheap, it's just that they are one of the few online sources for individual ACI spokes, which are cheap due to not attracting the substantial brand tax of DT, and they don't take the piss when converting the box price to the spoke price, e.g. Outspoken £31/gro. or 35p each, a 63% mark up for opening the box and counting them out.

Cool, so I've lain my last ditch attempt at getting a silver 32 salsa delgado rim with "activesports.co.uk" for £48, plus the £5 salsa rim I already had doesn't price them too badly.

If they turn out not to have the rim, just like triton did, I'll look into other 23mm rims.

and I'll be sourcing my 70 spokes from cyclebasket, which in boxes of 10 comes out as ~£20, not as bad as I originally thought.

will take apart the old wheels, lace the new ones, and get them trued and tensioned properly for a bit cheaper than from scratch.

That, is the current plan.

Fixed wheelset. TNRC style affairs.
Mavic open pro?
Excellight?

Formula hubs will probably be fine for me.
I'm lightish and don't want to spend >£250.

http://vimeo.com/49212143

RIght so my plans of finding a delgado cross rim have been scuppered, choices now are.

1). Find another front rim, have mismatched rims, and still need to buy at least new rear spokes, maybe front too.

2). Find a rim with same/slightly higher ERD to rigida chrina (603.5 apparently) and swap out the rims whilst reusing the spokes. And sell my spare delgado cross rim.

The latter is more favourable, so are there any suggestions? Limited by the fact I'd like box section rims for aesthetics (and supposedly comfort?)

The tb14s would be great but at ERD of 610 they may be too low profile for my current spokes to reach.

EDIT: a spoke calculator says with the tb14 i'll need only 1mm more from each spoke than on my chrinas, and seeing as my spoke may have been a tad too long anyway, it seems as if they'll be a good swap!

The GF has just acquired some rather lovely NOS Dura Ace 7120 high flange hubs, like these. 28 hole. They're going to be laced to some de-stickered Mavic Open Sports (silver, low profile box-section, and they were dirt cheap) with DB spokes (probably ACI Alpinas).

Question is, 3 cross or 2 cross lacing? Sheldon says 2 cross for 28 hole hubs, so I'm inclined to go with that. Discuss...

2-cross for 28h high flange hubs on shallow rims, I reckon. If they were low flange you might still want 3-cross.

(On a curious side note, Regal do you work in a bike shop, or are a mechanic? Apart from tester you seem to be one of the guys asnwering a lot of the tech questions around here)

Oh god no. I just like to get stuck in and do stuff myself on bikes so it's just from (limited) experience. TBH a lot of the questions that crop up here have already been asked at some point so if you hang around long enough you accumulate the answers... Don't ask me anything about Campag though. ;)

Ahh gotcha, makes sense!

I've been recommended to come here with this

Wheel building question:
My rim is done, it died, it's an ex-rim.. How easy/expensive is it just to replace the rim as the spokes and hub are all good

Thanks

1: Buy new rim identical to old one
2:Tape the spokes together where they cross
3:Lay new rim on top of old one, lining up the valve holes
4:Undo nipples and transfer spokes and nipples from old rim to new
5:Bin old rim and finish tensioning and truing

If you have a truing stand or similar you can just tape the new rim to old wheel and move spokes across one by one.

If you have a truing stand or similar you can just tape the new rim to old wheel and move spokes across one by one.

Why oh why did I not think of this when I last had to do this. I'm such a Jafool.

0: Put some oil on the nipples and leave for an hour or 10
0.5: Check you can get all the nipples turning freely - if some snap or round off or break their spokes you want to find out now.

1: Buy new rim identical to old one
2:Tape the spokes together where they cross
3:Lay new rim on top of old one, lining up the valve holes
4:Undo nipples and transfer spokes and nipples from old rim to new
5:Bin old rim and finish tensioning and truing