Wheelbuilding / Wheel Building / Wheel build help

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  • I've never done any wheel building before this could be a great opportunity..

    to ruin 2 rims

    Thanks for the tips guys

  • You'll be fine. If the truing gets too tricky, it shouldn't be more than a tenner to get an LBS to finish it off for you.

  • The polished TB14 rims have been ordered, going for a rim transplant to replace my rigida chrinas based on this spoke calcs measurements

  • 1: Buy new rim identical to old one
    2:Tape the spokes together where they cross
    3:Lay new rim on top of old one, lining up the valve holes
    4:Undo nipples and transfer spokes and nipples from old rim to new
    5:Bin old rim and finish tensioning and truing

    damn, wish I had taped them together first, I remember how difficult it was last time so I know I have a ball-ache on my hands now

  • God I hate this, cant see where the mistake is

    fuuuuuuuuu

  • Yet another good reason to support LBS...

  • Any chance one of you lot running the new wide 23mm rims (A23s or whatever) can take some measurements of the tyre profile? I'd like to know what type of tyre you're running and how high that tyre sits above the rim. Grassy Arse!

  • Pacenti SL23, Michelin Pro 3 Race 23mm, ~21mm tall.

  • A23's, Conti 4000's 23mm - 20mm tall

  • Hello! I am guessing this is where all things wheely go?

    I am looking to build a front wheel for my work horse that will take a disc brake. So I guess my question is: Is it possible to build a wheel with a mnt hub and a road rim?

    CsA.

  • Thanks BMMF and TTM.

    Any reason you're running 23s and not 25s? I thought they were designed with 25mm in mind?

  • Thanks BMMF and TTM.

    Any reason you're running 23s and not 25s? I thought they were designed with 25mm in mind?

    Only reason was I had some 23's to use up before the new rubber goes on.

  • i) 23mm is what I had 'in stock', and I can happily run them at a pressure which rolls well but gives me all the comfort benefits, great road handling on the surfaces in the lanes, etc. For me @~65kg, it's 80f/85r, which is 10psi less than what I run on 'normal rims'.

    ii) I get that flat transition between sidewall and brake track (much vaunted by someone or other (HED?, Zipp?), although the aero benefit this supposedly gives doesn't really interest me.

  • Any reason you're running 23s and not 25s? I thought they were designed with 25mm in mind?

    23mm tyres on 23mm rims gives you the profile of a 25mm tyre on a 20mm rim, but without the tyre bulging out past the rim and fuxxoring your aeros.

  • Is it possible to build a wheel with a mnt hub and a road rim?

    Yes, but if you're going for disc only, you might as well get a disc specific 29er rim rather than a road 700c rim.

  • Any chance one of you lot running the new wide 23mm rims (A23s or whatever) can take some measurements of the tyre profile?

    Salsa Delgado Cross
    Conti GP4000 700x25
    27mm wide, 25mm high

  • Hello! I am guessing this is where all things wheely go?

    I am looking to build a front wheel for my work horse that will take a disc brake. So I guess my question is: Is it possible to build a wheel with a mnt hub and a road rim?

    CsA.

    It certainly is. I'd look at touring rims or 29er rims though if its for a work horse?

    Shimano m525s are super cheap, solid disc bubs. Mavic a319s or rigida sputniks are really cheap too. Easy peasy.

  • ^whoops only just saw that tester beat me to it above.

  • 23mm tyres on 23mm rims gives you the profile of a 25mm tyre on a 20mm rim, but without the tyre bulging out past the rim and fuxxoring your aeros.

    I'm basically wondering if it's worth switching my front rim to a wider one in order to lower the profile of the fatter tyres I tend to run on the winter/commuter these days.

    It'd reduce my toe overlap by ~5mm and possibly handle better (and be more aero - though hardly a consideration on the Kinesis).

  • Why don't you stop fucking around and just amputate your toes and cut off the excess shoe; seal them up with duct tape?

  • It'd reduce my toe overlap by ~5mm

    Yeah, but you could get even more clearance if you moved your cleats forward :-)

  • Why don't you stop fucking around and just amputate your toes and cut off the excess shoe; seal them up with duct tape?

    I've tried that a couple of times already. I only seem to lose the toenails though.. need bigger shears..

  • Yeah, but you could get even more clearance if you moved your cleats forward :-)

    I prefer to be injury-free.

  • is a larger raked fork an option?

  • Maybe but I don't really wanna arse about with the bike too much. It's ok, just with my slightly larger winter boots and my Mad London Traffic Carving Skillzā„¢ I'll rub the tyre on my boot now and then. Plus I'm looking for an excuse to try 23mm rims out :)

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Wheelbuilding / Wheel Building / Wheel build help

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