Wheelbuilding / Wheel Building / Wheel build help

Posted on
Page
of 478
  • Can someone who knows about wheelbuilding tell, from the stats here, if I'll be able to reuse the rim and spokes from my SRF 3 build and just swap in the SRF 5? It would keep the cost of changing hubs down significantly. Both would be 36 hole.

    Is there a difference between the SRF 3 and SRF 5 shells? If not, you could avoid a wheel build by swapping the internals.

  • Can someone who knows about wheelbuilding tell, from the stats here, if I'll be able to reuse the rim and spokes from my SRF 3 build and just swap in the SRF 5?

    Yes, the 1mm difference in flange spacing changes the spoke length by such a tiny amount that you old spokes will fit fine. ON the other hand, the SJSC site doesn't match the official SA tech docs, so proceed with caution.

  • https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-Sturmey-archer-SRF5-W-hub-wheel-sputnik-700c-rim-Rigida-Ryde-5-speed-36h-/202154932342

    Get the full wheel on eBay for £99, which is less than the hub alone on SJS.

    Otherwise, if you like complications, the hub measurements are similar give or take a couple of mm so I would say yes.
    ACI double butted stainless steel spokes from Cyclebasket start at £0.21 with nipples, so not a great expense to go for new ones.

  • Is there a difference between the SRF 3 and SRF 5 shells?

    They have different part numbers. Looks like the external shape is the same but the internal machining to interface with the guts is different.

  • Thanks all. Looks like it's worth a shot trying to swap the new hub straight in.

    I know it's a bit ridiculous to worry about weight with a 1kg hub on a steel bike with front and rear racks and metal mudguards...but still, that pre-built wheel has a 700g rim and I'm guessing it may have plain gauge spokes too...

    The hub can be had new for £90 so I'm going to go for that, and either do my best to swap it in or get a bike shop to do it if I mess it up.

    Cheers!

  • do my best to swap it

    Most important thing to remember when doing a hub swap is to put the spokes back in the same place as they were before, i.e. inbound vs. outbound.

  • Yeah I'm hoping if I go one by one and copy it exactly, even as an idiot I should be able to get it right!

  • I would ask Islabike. I've seen a chart showing lots if cone types in a workshop ... It's probably gonna be shimano right?

  • I would ask Islabike. I've seen a chart showing lots if cone types in a workshop ... It's probably gonna be shimano right?

  • I would ask Islabike

    He asked Isla, they wanted to sell him a current model complete wheel. It looks to me as though only the decals have changed, but those Taiwanese hub shops offer a choice of ⅜" and 9mm and that might have changed too. Also, it would be a PITA for Isla to buy and stock parts.

  • Is there a sure-fire method for aligning the hub logo with the stem hole when lacing a 3x 32h wheel?

  • Thanks @snottyotter @Skülly @mdcc_tester et al. I'm hoping the polished up cone will hold up to a 20 kg rider for a while and if it gets rough again I'll probably rebuild the wheel unless I stumble on to the hubs in the meantime.

    Edit: I mounted the cone on the axle which I put in an electric drill. I then wrapped a 3mm drill bit in wet sanding paper working my way from 150 up to 1200 grit followed by some polishing paste.

  • Use your eyes as it depends where the logo has been printed

  • Does it happen to you to be nice?

  • If you're using Sheldon's guide then align the hub logo as you'd like it to be, then insert the "key" spoke 3-4 holes away from the logo. If that makes any sense.

  • This^

  • ^^That.

  • Cool, that's pretty much what I guessed from looking at a wheel. I'll give it a go and see where I end up. Thanks.

  • If you check the Noble Wheels Instagram page they were given a brand new set of Enve/Chris King wheels built by a "high end London bike shop" to look at and they found they had been built with 30kg tension on front wheel and rear driveside and the rear NDS registered 0kg.

    Nice.

  • Enjoying myself.


    1 Attachment

    • 2018-02-08_08-24-06.jpg
  • I got DT swiss RR 521 rim for a wheelbuild.
    It is only 23mm wide, not 24mm as advertised

    :(

  • Soo... I picked up a bargain pair of 32h R45 hubs... is there a ‘better’ rim option than DT R460 at £25 each? Had Pacenti SL23 and they were a nightmare to mount a tyre on in the wild (I’ll try tubeless when I’ve run out of normal tyres) got archetypes on something else, HED are £££ and Chinese carbon rims for 32h build seem wrong and the only other choice I can think of is Ryde Grizzly CSS which doesn’t feel like a natural pairing... what say you hivemind?
    (I don’t race, I can’t climb, I’m not a very talented rider - these wheels will be for punting about on as and when I can... 30,50 miles a weekend at most - the hubs were a bargain but no doubt wasted on me!)
    Cheers ,
    Matt

  • I still don't know the lengths I might have them though.

  • A wheels manufacturing cone might be a good match

  • Kinlin xr22t 22t. The price of the r460 is hard to beat though.

  • Post a reply
    • Bold
    • Italics
    • Link
    • Image
    • List
    • Quote
    • code
    • Preview
About

Wheelbuilding / Wheel Building / Wheel build help

Posted by Avatar for eeehhhh @eeehhhh

Actions