Wheelbuilding / Wheel Building / Wheel build help

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  • Find something described as '25mm wide u shaped' and you're good to go. Wouldn't get either of those.

  • The first rim is more u shaped by it is not wide enough. For a 22mm tyre the rim should be 23 to 24mm wide to minimise drag.

  • rear 36h X4 X2 front 28h X3

  • 4x DS and 2X NDS is odd as the tension balance is actually marginally worse than 4x/4x (not enough to be a problem) but the tornsional stiffness is lower and that will lead to accelerate spoke fatigue (not by much though) this is ofcourse offset but a laterally stiffer wheel due to the shorter NDS spokes so the net result it the builder might as well have built it 4x/4x as 4x/2x provides no net gain.

    Tie and solder may look good but it also a solution to the problem that actually make the problem no better. spoke life is not improved by tie and solder but a problem spoke wont flap about.

    Nice wheels though. Are they tubulars?

  • the tornsional stiffness is lower

    The contribution to torsional stiffness of the NDS of a 36H Sheriff Star (or any similar old hub with a skinny barrel) with the DS laced 4X approximates to zero whichever way you lace it.

  • Thanks !
    Clincher and Clincher road version on Wolber TX profil rims

    You like the campag omega V tubulars ?

    thoses are tubulars

    enjoy the hubs

  • I don't suppose any knows the ERD of the Mavic Open Pro T (tubular) do they?

  • problem spoke wont flap about.

    This was the reason given when I asked why the GB track wheels are tied and soldered.

  • Goyt learn how to measure ERD, it's easy and fundamental

  • Yeah, suppose I will do Gaston. Just wanted to get on with the build asap rather than wait another few days.

    Nice jobs on the tie and soldering - did you just use a regular (for electronics) soldering iron?

  • @umop3pisdn thanks both, i'll keep looking

  • Thanks and yes a regular (for electronics) soldering iron.
    When you got the knack it becomes realy sypatic to do.

  • If you are going to post archaic builds of vintage components give some numbers else you just look like wanky look at me twats.

  • advice on straight pull spokes please. Need to replace a few spokes after the derailleur hanger broke in a cyclocross race at the end of the season,. I'm 90kg if that helps.
    thanks for any advice

  • What wheel.

  • thoughts on DT Swiss 240s on Kinlin XC279?

  • Why not DT comps but trying will be difficult if needed. Cc rays in straight pull are very expensive. DT Swiss aetlites are not much if any cheaper.

  • Why the XC279 rims? XR22T or XR31T rims would be a better option, I'd say. If they're prebuilt, nice hubs, OK rims.

  • found it online already built up....temted to buy but no idea if they're good or not

  • Re Cx ray straight pull are same price as J bend from me, custom cut.

    XR279 is a an ok budget rim but miles below the tubeless XR series.

  • When I buy bulk packs they come out the same price. I have to do that for a few lengths as it will bring down the price of some wheels.

  • morning.
    its a fulcrum racing 5 lg, think i will need 3 or 4 spokes

  • Cross post from AQA. Anyone recognise this hub model? Need new cones and can't figure out what it is.

  • I've been running the excellent 3 speed Sturmey Archer SRF 3 on my Pompino for maybe 18 months now, and it's great. I have it so the top and bottom gears are something like 70 and 40 inches.

    But it's not enough for me to get up steep hills loaded, at the end of a long day when the paths are muddy or what have you.

    So I want to get a 5 speed SRF 5, which should allow me, according to Sheldon, a range of roughly 70 to 30 inches. Not a huge difference for the money, but I reckon it will be enough, and it's a lot cheaper than buying a new bike, and I love my Pompino so I'd rather not have to go derailleur.

    Can someone who knows about wheelbuilding tell, from the stats here, if I'll be able to reuse the rim and spokes from my SRF 3 build and just swap in the SRF 5? It would keep the cost of changing hubs down significantly. Both would be 36 hole.

    https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/hubs-internal-hub-gear-brake/sturmey-archer-srf3-3spd-aluminium-freewheel-hub-36-hole/

    https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/hubs-internal-hub-gear-brake/28-hole-sturmey-archer-srf5-5spd-hub/

  • For a start one is 28h and the other 36h.

    Edit: ah just spotted the very last sentence, ignore me as I'm clearly blind

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Wheelbuilding / Wheel Building / Wheel build help

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