Wheelbuilding / Wheel Building / Wheel build help

Thanks, super helpful. Does ascending price mean ascending quality as well, or not necessarily?

Does ascending price mean ascending quality

Not always, but in this case it does, or at least ascending preference for the specified duty. Any of them will do the job perfectly well, but the more expensive ones are prettier and have the material distributed in a way which keeps the strength with rather less of the weight.

Thanks. Quite like the SunRinglé you suggested. I'll probably go with that one, if I can look past the tourers obsession with Ryde/Rigidas.

novice wheel builder here...any advice / comments etc on the following would be appreciated before i commit...building a rear 29" disk wheel for general xc touring use - tyres not wider than 2.25"

hope pro evo 2 hub
wtb asym i29 rim
DT Swiss competition plain gauge spokes - brass nipples - 292mm

32 spoke - 3 cross pattern -

This site http://www.kstoerz.com/freespoke/ suggests spoke length to be 290.4 / 290.5

DT Swiss competition plain gauge spokes

Champion? Comp. plain gauge do not exist.

292mm

Round down from your calc. to 290

yes, meant competition - champion are DB right?

is the logic of rounding down to avoid the spoke protruding above nipple into rim?

yes, meant competition - champion are DB right?

No no, champion are plain gauge (i.e. shit spokes), comp. are butted get those.

is the logic of rounding down to avoid the spoke protruding above nipple into rim?

Yes, also thread engagement.

No no, champion are plain gauge (i.e. shit spokes), comp. are butted get those.

noted, thanks

champion are plain gauge (i.e. shit spokes)

As plain gauge spokes go, they are very good, there are just very few circumstances in which plain gauge is a good idea.

there are just very few circumstances in which plain gauge is a good idea.

Just for future reference, what are they?

for future reference, what are they?

1. You're already using the cheapest possible hubs and rims, and your budget still won't stretch to butted spokes
   
2. You're already using the highest possible spoke count, but you're such a lard-arse (or hauling so much freight) that you're having trouble getting enough axial stiffness into the wheel.
   
3. You want to maximise aerodynamic drag :)
   
   

Bike polo?

Bike polo?

Yes, I'm guessing that could cause the kind of exceptional axial loads which might warrant plain gauge spokes. Probably tricycles and jump bikes too, if they are heavily loaded.

Or you're building a Brompton PowerTap rear wheel and you can't find butted spokes short enough.

Brompton PowerTap

Chrz Tstr.

You're just jealous.

Yes that's right although you have probably worked this out buy now.

Velocity rims are fine. Not the best finished in the past but that seems to have improved. The pacenti brevet is s good rim. The atlas is another good rim.

Ryde Andra 321 is the rim your looking for.

Bronson power tap. The flange is almost as big as the rim.

Nipple advice please

Im currently refurbishing and rebuilding a set of wheels from a 1986 Muddy fox Courier, built with Araya 36h single wall aluminium non-eyeleted rims, Sansin hubs and rusty mild steel spokes. The front is currently de-laced and the parts polished up ready to rebuild. The new spokes are DT Swiss champion 2mm straight gauge.
The nipples from the original build were Japanese type (3.4mm). I've got DT Swiss brass euro type (3.25mm) to replace them with. Am I likely to have problems, i.e. the nipple fitting poorly in the rim? This is something I've never considered before as I've always built with modern euro components that play nicely together. The rim will not be as strong as a modern one so don't want to cause a premature failure.

If this is a problem, where do I source decent Japanese nipples?!

No issue there otherwise europeans would not build with japanese rims. under tension that nipple wont be able to move.

I has a lightweight crabon no brand rear wheel that took a big hit on a pothole recently, wouldn't true and then eventually popped a spoke #csb

Would there be any issues rebuilding onto a Reynolds straight pull hub I has spare?

TIA

Looking at some Farsport carbon clinchers for track. Which of these would be best to run 23-25mm tyres on (I'm thinking 24mm specialized cotton). The narrower rims are obviously lighter but the wider rims would be more aero with the tyre?

I don't know enough about rim shape to know which has the advantage there