Wheelbuilding / Wheel Building / Wheel build help

Best bet - but people are sharing tears of pain from the strength (technique) needed to mount tyres on the TLR rim bead.

DT 511 DB is 25g lighter.

How long have you run them for? No issues?

Getting a new tyre on first time is absolute murder but with S-Works and Vittoria Corsa G+ the beads stretched enough to allow much easier removal.

Yes I have the 55mm U shaped 18/24 drilling on some Ultegra 10 spd OEM hubs

Over three years. No issues. The MTB ones in particular are hard as nails. I run them tubeless, and have smashed them into the edges of rocks more times than I care to remember, and they've been fine.

DT is only 10g lighter than the disc version of the 55mm U shape rims and 23mm shallower.

It's all irrelevant if they're not durable and not aero or build into a pile of shit.

23mm shallower

is that worth £££ to you? If so light bicycle wins.

Since my front wheel is fucked at the moment and I need to build it again I was just thinking out loud that with TABR being all on-road I could get away with using lighter and more aero wheels for a small speed increase on the flats.

I've already ordered a 511db rim but then the Enve rims caught my eye. But £1000 per rim is crazy.

But £1000 per rim is crazy.

How will you get on Radvist otherwise?
If you want moar aero than 511db then go with lightbicycle anything pricier than that is just for vanity. I reckon those DT rims would do the trick.

How did you kill the current rim? Is Velocity not covering it?

dafuq is radvist?

I'm more concerned with getting something cheap and having it go PING! mid-race. At least with Enve, for their price, they should fucking helicopter a spare in for me if I break it :D

Scooter cut me up and another bike hit the front wheel as I swerved to avoid it. Fun times.

TLR?

My Superman thumbs are not often beaten by a tyre/wheel combo. Only problem with me running really durable tyres these last few years is I've had less cause to need to use them so they're getting weaker.

What do you weigh?

TubeLessReady

80kg on a good day. On a bad day anything up to 83kg.

Isn't tubeless one word? :P

Still not sure I'll bother with Tubeless tyres.

I'm +10kg and +10kg luggage.

Pretty sure @gabes has been using them offroad for years, including the Divide...

They're sounding like they've had some testing then. Maybe I should order some.

Should I get another dyno hub and drop the spoke count?
http://www.aeroweenie.com/assets/backup/zipp_data/spokecount.pdf

Maybe not.

@hippy LightBicycle rims are great so far I have two paris, 30mm 29er that I used for Tour Divide, all is good, and 25mm that I had on the 29er before and now run on the cross bike with 40c tyres, they are 3 years old and have probably 8k miles in them, some scratches in the lacquer, but are still perfectly true.

They take about 4 weeks from ordering to be made up and arrive from china.

Thanks for that. They do sound pretty good.

Maybe I should've held fire on the DT rim. Oh well.

After some advice, I keep snapping spokes on my Promax/Tb14/Sapim laser 3 cross front wheel (properly tensioned using parkes gauge).

I thinking about respoking with standard non butted spokes in a radial pattern, is this a good idea?

Use dt comp, stay 3x. That is what I would have to start with.

Reminds me of that (racist joke klaxon) old one about stopping to ask the Irish farmer directions, he replies 'well I wouldn't be starting from here if I were you'.

I keep snapping spokes on my Promax/Tb14/Sapim laser

Obviously take Skully's advice and use Comps, but it would still be interesting to know which spokes are breaking, and where.

This particular spoke snapped at the hub end right on the bend, it was on the inside of the hub.

I have the spokes tensioned to 10 on the park tools gauge, this is about right?

Thats too low, only 55kg on a 1.5mm spoke, should be up at 16-17

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