Wheelbuilding / Wheel Building / Wheel build help

How are you supposed to use this chart? I use a tension meter, but only to get even tension. The exact figure I go for is always 'nice and tight, not too tight'

at the hub end right on the bend, it was on the inside of the hub

That's what I would expect. Inbound spokes are more vulnerable to this failure because they get less support on the bend than outbound ones. If the flanges are thin, you might be able to improve matters by using washers under the spoke heads.

That isn't tight enough and thats why your spokes are snapping. It's really, really difficult to snap a spoke on an un-dished front wheel.

Read the thickness of the round spoke you are using across the top then go down the column to about 100 kg of force and the target reading on the Park meter is on the left.

Thanks for your help, I'll get them tighter then!

Added problem with super skinny round spokes like Lasers is wind up. Even Sapim say they should only be used by experienced builders

http://www.sapim.be/spokes/butted/laser

I have been holding the spoke with pliers just above the nipple spanner to help with this.

I've got a set of wheels with H+ Son Archetype rims that need rebuilding. The DT Swiss R460 rim is a decent amount cheaper for a pair, but the ERD is 1mm longer - can I reuse the same spokes?

1mm you probably lucky.

yes as only 0.5mm diff per spoke top and bottom

Dt swiss r23, r24 & r32 db wheels are built with New Aero spokes on the drive side/front disc side.

Can you do the same with dt swiss 350 straight pull hubs?
Is it possible to use Dt swiss New Aero spokes? (blade is 1.1x3.3mm)

Dt swiss r23, r24 & r32 db wheels are built with New Aero spokes

Except they're not. They have their own spokes which are not the same cross section as New Aero or any other DT retail spokes.

ok then their site specs are wrong

ok then their site specs are wrong

Yeah, I think they just say "New Aero" in the spec to give an approximate idea of what you're getting. The spec also says Aero Comp for the NDS, and again the actual spoke isn't quite the same as an Aero Comp but it is different from the drive side.

It's a similar deal as with sapim "delta" spokes. The butting is the same as the non OE spokes, but the profile is square rather elliptical.

So more of a DT "aero champion" spoke: 2mm squashed to ~2.5x1.5 and possible to fit through normal spoke holes.

Thanks for the detailed reply

j

I'm looking at replacing a Rigida Chrina rim, to enable use of wider tyres, but I want to retain the hub and spokes. This means I need a wheel with the same ERD. Currently I'm using DT Swiss nipples but swapping to Sapim Polyax nipples and washers could permit a shorter ERD.

Can anyone recommend a rim, other than the Chrina, with an ERD of 603 mm? I think the Mavic A319 is close but, the specified dimension is Mavic's nipple seat diameter and it's only available with Schrader drilling. As far as I know this rim also has no warning indicators for brake track wear.

Thanks.

Chrina are recommened as a straight swap for Open Pros but another option if you wnted to use different rim is having spokes cut and rethreaded.

I have a mix of 64 CX Rays + Race that George Halls Cycles will shorten by 4mm for £10 including postage back to me so I can swap knacked Open Pros for R460.

Thanks, Open Pro only takes narrow tyres though. Shame.

I'd never thought of having spokes shortened, knew it could be done. The price seems reasonable as well.

Open Pro only takes narrow tyres

Whatever was working on the Chrina will be just the same on an Open Pro, they're the same width

Sorry, I should have added in my original post that the reason I want to change the Chrina is so I can get a wider, maybe 32mm tyre on.

Anyone build a set with the DT R441 yet?
Look nice for an all-round 20/24 set.

135 mm disc hub.

I could buy a cheap deore disc hub and get that built into a rim right, using the iso bolt fix from velosolo.

Would I die, probably it will happen someday, if I used an already built up disc wheel and did the iso bolt fix?
Edit: the wheel will therefore be flipped around won't it?
So any tension to accomodate drive side/non drive side might be the wrong way round.
It's just for commuting to and from work.

Chainline?

Drivetrain forces would be in the same direction as breaking on the disc brake non? IANAP

The disc side on a front wheel has higher tension already because of the dish