Wheelbuilding / Wheel Building / Wheel build help

Found DT 350 now just need to find this part in the UK if possible: https://www.bike24.com/1.php?content=8;product=156160;backlink=9%7C%7C%7C%7C%7C%7C%7C%7C%7C%7C%7C

Any recommendations for:
Disc rim
26"
Silver
Can hold a 100 kg person
General MTB use, not downhilling
Brand isn't so important I'm more after a good weight/strength for the price :)

https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/rims-tape/32-rigida-sputnik-26-559-mtb-rim-silver/

Tx :)

It's 610 grams, is a DRC mt19 too light you think? Not much on that brand, SJS tends to sell good tough stuff though.

I've had a bunch of DRC rims in 26 and 29, they've been reliable and the braking surface seems to last forever. No longer imported into the UK for a few years now unfortunately.

Tx :)

SJS has some it seems in 26...

https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/rims-26-559/?brand=drc

I'm looking at replacing the wheels on my commuter/winter training road bike. Considering the below Cosine at £66

http://www.wiggle.co.uk/cosine-24mm-alloy-clincher-road-wheelset/

Is it even worth bothering with a custom build of HPlusSon Archetypes 32Hx2 with 105 hubs? Wondering if I'm not better off just replacing the wheelset whenever at this price considering I'll be able to buy a few for the price of a custom made set.

PS: I had Seabass build my custom wheelset for my Bowman and love them (Hope hubs and Archtypes rims)

Worth a punt. The Novatec A171/F172 hubs on those wheels aren't bad. Factory bearings are a bit shit but put some decent ones in when they go and they'll probably be less hassle over time. The old cartridge vs cup & cone debate...
I've found the braking surface of HPS rims to wear quite quickly (particularly winter stop/start riding), so not a great choice for a commuter/winter bike. Those rims could be Kinlins, which don't brake as well but last longer.

Thanks a lot for your input, you seem to know one thing or two about wheels!

Essentially I'm flexible on the custom build and it could be the below Strada too. I'm just wondering whether a custom build is worth the extra money considering I can buy/replace 4 sets of the Cosine for the same price:

https://www.stradawheels.co.uk/product/winter-training-wheels/

Not really (but thanks!). I've just built with those hubs in the past, and have had a few years on various HPS-rimmed wheels.
Someone better informed might be able to determine what rims the Cosine set uses, although given Wiggle's size and buying power, I wouldn't be surprised if Kinlin were exclusively supplying.

If you are talking about spoke windup: try aero/bladed spokes next time, much easier to hold

And grease all the things.

If you are talking about spoke windup

If only. Straight pull spokes want to spin in the hub more than they want to screw into the nipple. Bladed spokes are still a good solution to the holding problem.

Right, having asked in AQA I have a new question. I have this rear wheel. Its 8/9/10 speed, and I want to run it 11 speed (road, not MTB). The obvious answer would be "buy a new freehub" but I can't find anything, and the hubs are not great tbh.

I happen to have a spare set of hubs so I guess the best bet will be to rebuild them and keep the old hubs for paperweights. Mostly just seeing if there is anything obvious I've missed

(channeling tester I bought myself a pair of calipers and have confirmed that they are 10spd hubs)
https://www.rosebikes.co.uk/article/dt-swiss-275-466-disc-mtb-rim---for-disc-brakes--/aid:639608

anything I should know about lacing carbon rims before I dive in? Have only built alloy ones before. Probably going to get them dished and trued by a shop but save some money by lacing them myself

Yesterday I flogged an ancient phil road hub to a designer guy who's going to use it to build a weathervane. Natty.

Just back from the bike shop with a newly built and free 24 hole pacenti rim on my goldtec hub. No quibbles from velobrand or all terrain cycles at all .
Top fellas.

and wheel balancing performed

do i need specific spokes for a disc wheel build, or will any spokes be fine? I'm fairly light and they're 32h tub rims.

Thanks

Anything you'd use on the drive side rear is good for the rotor side of a disc brake build.

Is that 4x alu nipples to offset the weight of the valve?
Not sure about using alu nips radially (though I suppose 32h is enough), but rad idea!

Yeah but aren't most rims balanced to some degree with material at the join opposite the valve?

Depends on manufacturer I guess.
Most pinned rims probably do. A Mavic Ellipse I taco'd had an insert inside the (welded) join, so I'd assume all their other rims are the same. HPS Archetypes and TB14s always seem to have a bit of radial runout at the join (not the case with SL42s), so maybe they don't have an insert. Need an X-ray machine.

Need an X-ray machine.

Or a hacksaw :)

If the rim is deep/semi-deep, you can use a defluffed cotton button as a nipple driver. Use lots of force when you push the nipples onto the cotton bud, so they don't come off inside the rim.

Nipples rattling about inside the rim are awkward to retrieve. If the worst comes to the worst, keep lacing, and cross your fingers that the nipple will come out of its own accord when the wheel is spinning in the truing stand.