Wheelbuilding / Wheel Building / Wheel build help

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  • Or use an old spoke.

  • Anyone using the Wheelfanatyk described right to left building technique for dished wheels regularly? Looks brilliantly simple

  • I certainly tension the drive side (or on the front disc wheel, the disc side) spokes first and get the wheel round and the tensions on that side even before winding up the tensions on the NDS (drive or disc as appropriate). Seemed fairly obvious, really.

  • After some advise, I've got some cheap unbranded crabon 38mm deep 23mm wide lightweight wheels on bitex hubs. Would any wheel builder rebuild the rear on to a powertap hub or would I be better off/ cheaper sourcing new rims?

    TIA

  • Don't see why they wouldn't. I've had wheels rebuilt with new hubs before. As long as the rims are in reasonable condition there's no reason why they shouldn't be reused.

  • Ok, is it easy to calculate spoke length or shall I just handover hub and wheel and leave it to the builder to source?

  • It's easy enough but I'd leave it to the wheelbuilder.

  • What would be a sensible option for a nice-ish rim without a braking surface that would fit 35c nicely? I'm thinking a rim intended for disc but you will have to excuse my ignorance on this subject.

  • Any destickered 29er mtb rim.

  • How much longer does this rim have? An Archetype...


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  • Use public transport until it is replaced.

  • Does anyone know what modern rim with asymmetric spoke bed is easily available in silver? Thinking kinlin or DT... prob want 32h maybe 28h...

  • The rim looks fine, but check your brake pad alignment.

  • New one arrived yesterday, doh :)

  • I did exactly the same with an Open Pro for my first build, rode it for a couple of miles and it was fine...

  • And after those two miles...? ;)

  • Ha, I meant years! Dunno where miles came from...

  • Velocity A23 is the only one I can think of right now. The asymmetric options seem to be all black (Ryde Pulse Sprint/Comp), or black with a silver machined sidewall (Kinlin, DT) as far as I know.
    And the A23 is not a rim I'd particularly recommend. You can get an O.K. result with it but it's soft, flexy, and quite poorly made really in comparison to the offerings from the companies above.

  • Thanks @t_w. Starting to realise that not wanting black parts is a losing battle. Or a matter of using caustic soda to remove ano which has got to be not that good for the integrity of rims.

  • Still have a black 32h disc offset Kinlin for sells.

  • What should I replace my destroyed front rim with?

    It was Velocity Aileron, 32h disc-specific onto SP dyno. Crashed it.

    Should I get on of those DT Swiss 511DBs? Or look for deeper carbon?

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Wheelbuilding / Wheel Building / Wheel build help

Posted by Avatar for eeehhhh @eeehhhh

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