Wheelbuilding / Wheel Building / Wheel build help

Rhyno Lite - size?

Rhyno lite or anything burly by rigida.
Sputnik or suchlike depending on size

Plenty of Rigida and Exal options for £18 at http://spacycles.co.uk/m2b0s116p0/Parts-and-Accessories/Components-Wheels-Rims

The Sputnik rim is a beast - it is likely I will go for that.

Thank you for your help.

Vince

are velocity major tom better than mavic reflex for cross?

ie. is it worth sacrificing the additional weight (c. 120g for both wheels) for the wider rim bed for tubs?

The larger surface on the MT's means a better hold on the tyre which means less likelihood of rolling a tub at CX pressures. With reflex, I'd do tape + glue, with MTs I'd just use glue.

I'm planning wheel build based on a dynamo hub for this winter and would like one that would fit a variety of forks. One fork is a 9mm thru axle (Hope Pro 2 EVO) hub, the other 9mm quick release and the other does not yet exist. Clearly I need a hub that has some flexibility like the Hope ones.

Looking at dynamo hubs I see that the Shutter Precision 8X Series Dynamo Hub comes in a variety of axle types and has an axle adaptor from 15mm to 9mm quick release (I think) but that's it adaptor wise.

Are there other hubs that I have missed or simple DIY conversion tricks to be employed to swap axle types?

Any suggestions would be appreciated.

have missed or simple DIY conversion tricks to be employed to swap axle types?

It's straightforward to shim down from 15×100 through to 9×100 through, the adapter is just a tube with 15mm OD and 9mm ID

Sorry, realised this after posting, unfortunately I don't have access to a lathe though. I suspect getting one made would be costly.

Also my 9mm thru axle fork has a sort of lip above the hubs end caps and without the axle the wheel will happily stand in place. I suspect these "lips" would be in the way of the end caps of a 15mm thru axle hub. Maybe the OD of the end cap is consistent throughout the axle types. Although that seems unlikely given the fact some axles are significantly larger.

Maybe the OD of the end cap is consistent throughout the axle types

There isn't a standard for most axle types, so there's a mm or two of variation in the end cap OD even for the same axle type. AFAIK, only SRAM 15×110 Boost specifies the end cap diameter.

John C. Wilson's

Pulled a spoke through on my pacenti sl23 rear (after less than 2k) miles so want a better but similar rim?.
Dt r440 asymetric as its only 24 hole or dt 460
I have conidered the kinlin xr31t it maybe a bit heavy.

What are the wheelbuilding gurus opinions?
The hub is a betd goldtech 10speed narrow dish afare

Get in touch with Velobrands - the distributor, they should send you a new one.
I wouldn't put assymetric rim on it because you are reducing the already challenged bracing angle

Kinlin 31t is about 480g
Dt r460 is 460g
H Plus son Archetype is 470g

Kinlin is widest, stiffest and strongest of the lot.
At a 20g penalty.

Thanks for that , i will send them a nice email in the morning .

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In a scene that could feature notthenineoclocknews velo said
"It has nothing to do with us"
Take it up with the bike shop

Bike shop is now covering the warranty and rebuild so great news 😡

The thicker spokes go on the non drive side, yes?

First point of call for the so called "end user" is always the place that they bought the product from. The shop then takes the warranty issue up with the distributor, who in turn takes it up with the manufacturer.

This is the way of warranty. A customer of ours has a Ridley frame with problems (we don't sell Ridley) and he contacted Ridley direct for a warranty claim. They said fine, but take it back to where you bought it first.

Makes sense and the bike shop i bought the rims from are being realy good about it .

Following a little accident last week leaving me with a sprained ankle, my rear wheel got kicked a bit, one broken spoke on non drive side, touching brake pads, etc...
I changed the spoke, did some trueing, and all is back in place.
Dishing was a little off on that wheel to start with so I dealt with that at the same occasion.
Now the wheel has a fairly even tension throughout all spokes, but double checking the park tools app, looked like I'm a bit above 120kgf where internet says open pros should only be up to 110... (pain gauge 2mm spokes)
Should I bother trying to reduce tension, is rim going to crack if I leave it like this? It's a 32 holes wheelset, I'm over 90kg, plus a heavy ish saddle bag (commuting bike)
Thanks

Quickfix: Maybe measure again with tyre on, Tension could have gone down (and problem solved, sort of)

I kept the nipple of the broken spoke and did not remove tyre to true the wheel. Normally inflated... So tension measured is with spokes.
I haven't rode the bike like this yet due to my bad ankle... (can manage with brompton and low saddle though...)

Apart from Novatec what options I have for 12x100 front and 12x142 rear centerlock?

I was going to get Hunt aerolight wheels but @umop3pisdn convinced me to go wider than 17mm internal on my gRoad build so most likely going to get WTB KOM i21.

12x100 front and 12x142 rear centerlock?

White Industries, if you're determined to throw money at the problem

Christ, spent about 2 hours today building a wheelset with Comp straight pulls and prolock nipples. NEVER AGAIN! The only way I could hold the spokes still was to grip as much of it as possible with my spare hand and a paper towel. No number of soft-jawed grips etc. would hold it.