Wheelbuilding / Wheel Building / Wheel build help

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  • No worries.

  • I thought these things were symmetrical?

    Double-fixed and flip-flop hubs are usually symmetrical, single sided hubs often aren't.

  • Okay, that makes more sense as it is a single-fixed hub. I think I'll try and have this thing measured instead of making a potentially costly error. Thanks dudes.

  • Digital vernier calipers are cheap, you'll find loads of things which need measuring once you have one.

  • +1

    Having owned digital vernier calipers for a while I'm now finding situations where I want some long-reach calipers, like measuring the inside of a seattube that's been tightened around an undersized post...

  • So i just build some wheels just got to true them up a bit, Velocity A23 rims on Surly rear hub and Hope mono front, but when the wheels are left to spin the join of the rims always ends up at the bottom, exactly the same on both wheels, is this normal?

  • Yup, that's the heaviest bit and gravity and shit. I think if you're that worried you can get them balanced but it's probably pointless.

  • I guess with the Valve it would counter balance it a bit? as long as i wont notice it when i'm riding its fine.

  • Yeah, some are worse than others, depends on the type of join too, it always seems a lot worse in the stand than in use though.

  • The the join isn't exactly smooth, so yeah sounds like the culprit, thanks for the advice.

    Also got a little 'Bobble' or what ever you call it, i guess i'll get better after i build a few more.

  • The extra weight is caused by the sleeve, pins or weld, you often get a slight bobble there too, less so on fancier rims.

  • I have a DT Swiss rim where they've milled material off around the join to equalise the weight. Nice but pricey.

  • Why didn't they mill the material off all the way round?

    Slackers.

  • I usually site my wheel magnet opposite the bit the ends up at the bottom (with tube and tyre on). On my current wheels it seems to balance it really well.

  • Summer wheelset... I'm 70kg, what do we think?

    Archetype clinchers, novatec hubs 24/28 with dt comp spokes... trying to go reasonably light on a budget, any advice?

  • ^ Sounds like a pretty solid build to me, but I'm sure someone will be along in a bit to tell me I'm wrong! ;P

  • I have Paul hubs to archetypes with DT alpine III spokes and it's nicest wheel set I've ridden I think, they're stiff and still perfectly true, thanks for the recommendation 'tester.

  • Right wheel experts...

    I was trying to get a cassette off tonight and somehow seem to have forced the entire freehub body off the wheel and onto the gravel in my garden.

    All the pawls and seals are now covered in dust and shit. I think I've lost some of the pawls as well.

    It's a Hope 3 Mono hub. Is it worth buying a new freehub for £60 and how easy will it be for me to fit?

    I'm pissed off beyond belief. This is the last thing I need to spend money on this month.

  • You can buy the pawls separately, everything else comes apart enough to be cleaned and relubed. It's worth replacing the barrel if the fact that it had got severely notched by the sprockets was the cause of its coming off the hub with the cassette, but if it has plenty of life left then you can save yourself £57 by buying a pawl.


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  • Thanks Tester. I think the barrel needs replacing.

    Is it easy enough to replace myself? I'm starting to think a new wheel or at least hub to be built up with existing rim might make as much sense.

  • As you have discovered, the freehub just pops off, fitting a new one is just the same process in reverse plus a bit of fiddling to get the pawls into the ratchet ring. Have a look at the video and see if you fancy doing it yourself
    http://vimeo.com/58173408

  • I've just been a Muppet and trashed the axle - while replacing the bearings - on my unbranded (turns out to be Specialized) front hub.

    The axle has shoulders like

    However the outer edge of the bearings appear to sit on shoulders in the hub. I cannot find a Specialized axle supplier. Can I use a bog standard threaded QR axle, ie one without shoulders?

    Also does anyone know if a Specialized axle has 9x1mm threading or something bizarre?

    Thanks in advance.

  • The hubs on my 2009 Specialized Allez Elite were some utterly disposable sub-Quando level POS. I couldn't even take them apart to work out what the bearings were when the rear went wobbly. They were on some press-fit together non-serviceable level of fuckery.

    I put the rims on some Shimano Tiagra hubs.

  • Can I use a bog standard threaded QR axle, ie one without shoulders?

    No, sitting the inner race on a thread would be a poor fit even if it was the right nominal diameter, and the shoulders are probably 10mm diameter anyway.

  • Mines a Allez Sport ca 2006. Although the front wheel is now on my (all-weather) commuter, the hub seem to be quite good and this is my first service if you can call destroying the axle thread service.

    I'd just like to maximize the life especially as an axle is an order of magnitude cheaper than a wheel of any quality and I'm not in the mood to build another right now and that never works out cheaper although more satisfying.

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Wheelbuilding / Wheel Building / Wheel build help

Posted by Avatar for eeehhhh @eeehhhh

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