Wheelbuilding / Wheel Building / Wheel build help

No, sitting the inner race on a thread would be a poor fit even if it was the right nominal diameter, and the shoulders are probably 10mm diameter anyway.

You've just made me realize that if the bearings are 6000-2RS the ID is 10 mm therefore a 9x1 axle would be no use.

I assume, although hope I'm wrong, that the axle shoulder provides support to stop the inner section of the cartridge bearing shifting with respect to the outer.

May be I should simplify my question to does anyone know where I source an after market axle for such a hub?

I've busted my rear Crest rim. Can I swap it out for a Flow, and keep the original spokes, which will make re-building infinitely easier for a noob like me?

Crest ERD is 540, Flow is 537

^if needed there is a handy little tool fella that grinds the thread (continues) on your spoke if you end up on the long side with the shorter ERD.

Ah cool. Thanks.

best idea would be to use longer spoke nipples which you should change anyway, so if you've got 12mm's now, get 14mm's, though there is something that tester/ugo say about not re-using spokes due to retensioning or something.

Re-using spokes is fine, just don't swap them from inbound to outbound in the process.

Any opinions on the Pacenti SL23 rims? Compared with Open Pros and Archetypes?

Also, Chris King R45 road hubs Vs Goldtec road hubs?

Lastly - 100kg, how many spokes can I get away with front and back for a set of road racing wheels?

Got some Ceramic Open Pros with Hope Pro III hubs and DT Swiss spokes, but exploring other options, and deep-section alloy rims. Both of the others mentioned above would be better with a 25mm tyre than the narrower Open Pro, right?

Thanks in advance.

Any opinions on the Pacenti SL23 rims? Compared with Open Pros and Archetypes?

Also, Chris King R45 road hubs Vs Goldtec road hubs?

Lastly - 100kg, how many spokes can I get away with front and back for a set of road racing wheels?

Got some Ceramic Open Pros with Hope Pro III hubs and DT Swiss spokes, but exploring other options, and deep-section alloy rims. Both of the others mentioned above would be better with a 25mm tyre than the narrower Open Pro, right?

Thanks in advance.

The pacenti is marginal wider, yet slightly lighter than an Archetype, which means it's less thick, which means less durable, both in terms of braking surface and in terms of potential cracks at the holes. It is tubeless ready, which means a bit tighter fit, in case you're not a demon tyre fitter. It does need tubeless rim tape, which is significantly more expensive than bog standard Velox stuff. Both Archetype and Pacenti are wide, rather than deep, the aero improvement over your OP is negligible, but the improvement in handling with the same tyre is significant.

For 100 Kg I suggest a 32 rear built with Dt Comp, Alpine 3 or Sapim Race... the front can be 28 and built even with lighter spokes, front wheels don't do a great deal of work, unless you carry a front rack and panniers.

Personally I would not buy CK 45 hubs... if you do, then you need to invest in the toolage they require, which shops don't have and it's extremely expensive. Hope and Miche Primato will give you the same performance and similar reliability for much less money. No expereince on Goldtec... I have heard good things, not enough to make me steer towards them.

A 25 mm tyre will give you a better profile on a wider rim than on an OP... but then if you ride in a straight line you will never know

Lastly - 100kg, how many spokes can I get away with front and back for a set of road racing wheels?

You can get away with 16f, 20r if the rims are designed for it, I ride both RS30s and RS80-C24s at 100kg, the latter on gravel as well as paved roads (not that the paved roads in this country are any smoother than the gravel)

You don't need tubeless rims tape on the SL-23 with inner tube.

Does anyone know of an alternative to the On-One large flange track hub mk 2 (http://www.on-one.co.uk/i/q/HUOOLFMK2/on-one-large-flange-track-hub-mk2). I know of others like the mk1, but am after ones with better sealing of the bearings like the mk2.

I want a silver hub and unfortunately the mk2 is not available in that colour.

Summer wheelset... I'm 70kg, what do we think?

Archetype clinchers, novatec hubs 24/28 with dt comp spokes... trying to go reasonably light on a budget, any advice?
Just (as in today) received the same, but using Sapim Race.

I'm 10kg heavier than you, wanted wide rims and this is what DCR wheels suggested.

I can't remember if it was on his advice, or I read it elsewhere, but the lightweight NovaTec hubs weren't recommended: they are less durable due to smaller bearings (mine are A172 and F272).

"...I'm sure someone will be along in a bit to tell me I'm wrong..."

I know of others like the mk1, but am after ones with better sealing of the bearings like the mk2.

Mk2 doesn't have better seals, it just has close covers to trap crud next to the standard rubber seals and to prevent you from wiping the seals with an oily rag when you clean your bike. Get the Mk1 and the £8 saving will pay for your first set of replacement bearing cartridges anyway.

^ Cheers, you've saved me £8 and that hub comes in good old fashioned silver. For some reason black hubs, and spokes bother me more than black rims, but I prefer all in silver.

Thanks again.

Just (as in today) received the same, but using Sapim Race.

I'm 10kg heavier than you, wanted wide rims and this is what DCR wheels suggested.

I can't remember if it was on his advice, or I read it elsewhere, but the lightweight NovaTec hubs weren't recommended: they are less durable due to smaller bearings (mine are A172 and F272).

"...I'm sure someone will be along in a bit to tell me I'm wrong..."

You could have read it on my blog or on Bike Radar... I've been going on about it for a while. On the other hand, they are very easy to replace.. so if you are a DIY person, there is no reason not to use a Novatec 482, but if you rely on a shop, then stay away

I doubt it was BR, so credit to you!

ugosantalucia & tester - Thanks for the info.

I've bought some On-One High Flange hubs and I'm looking to lace them up to H+Son TB14. I've measured the hubs and used the published ERD for the rims (haven't bought the rims yet). The calculator is telling me I need 295mm spokes, but I can't find them anywhere (checked rose bikes, bike24, hibikes..). I was hoping to use DT Swiss Alpine III.

Would it be sensible to use 294mm with a 14mm nipple, or will 294 with 12mm be ok? Or should I keep searching for 295?

294 with whatever nipple in the calc gave 295 is fine.

Awesome, thanks :)

Afternoon all, just picked up some ambrosio metamorphosis from a forumenger.

They are going to be laced 3 cross to some on-one hubs for use at herne hill so two questions for my learned elders:

What kind of spoke tension should I be aiming for?

And recommendations for tub glue please.

Cheers Stuart

A while back I showed some photos of my tensiometer made by a guy called Filip who uses the design by Jobst Brandt (which is open to use by anyone), and a few of you were interested.

I have used mine a lot now and swear by it, it's so much better than anything I've seen or used below £300, and mine cost didn't even cost half that!

Filip has now finished his top end version using a TESA Digico dial (unbelievable Swiss precision) and THK roller bearings (Japanese and smoother than a very smooth thing), and is currently selling one on ebay here.

There are much better pics and a video to see more on the ebay listing.

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I've bought some On-One High Flange hubs and I'm looking to lace them up to H+Son TB14. I've measured the hubs and used the published ERD for the rims (haven't bought the rims yet). The calculator is telling me I need 295mm spokes, but I can't find them anywhere (checked rose bikes, bike24, hibikes..). I was hoping to use DT Swiss Alpine III.

Would it be sensible to use 294mm with a 14mm nipple, or will 294 with 12mm be ok? Or should I keep searching for 295?

The last set of TB 14 I built was ERD 609. Hope it helps

Afternoon all, just picked up some ambrosio metamorphosis from a forumenger.

They are going to be laced 3 cross to some on-one hubs for use at herne hill so two questions for my learned elders:

What kind of spoke tension should I be aiming for?

And recommendations for tub glue please.

Cheers Stuart

If it's a fixed build, there is no need to go crazy with the tension. 100 KgF (1000 Newton) is good enough on the rear. 90 KgF is good enough for the front

SJS sell 295 mm DT Swiss Competition and they're in stock: http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/14-15g-dt-competition-double-butted-spoke-with-12mm-brass-nipple-pack-of-6-prod815/