Fuji Track / Fuji Track Pro / Fuji Track Classic

Is the 2007 Fuji Track headset/fork JIS or ISO? If it's ISO will a JIS headset work? If not, why not? I'm keen to learn all this headset/bb crap.

fuji bikes are made in the usa so i guess they'd be ISO.

http://www.sheldonbrown.com/cribsheet-headsets.html

Pretty much 100% certain it'd be ISO.

Hell even Shimano (Japan) headsets are ISO.

I was thinking.
Everybody knows the fork on Fuji, the one on Bianchi Pista seems to be much more straight which I reckon reduces wheelbase and increases the agility.
Is it possible to replace a fork on my fuji for a straight one (or close to straight) without screwing up the geometry somehow?
Baiscally I am after more aggressively handling bike.

Worth knowing what the rake is on the Fuji fork (probably 35-40mm). If by straight you mean zero rake then yes that may feel odd (as well as being very hard to actually obtain).
However if you mean the blades are straight but angle out from the crown then it would probably be alright to use a 30mm rake fork. (which you would be able to find)

What I meant basically is reducing the rake. Couldn't find the word, really :)

The Bianchi Pista fork is 28mm, I think, is your steerer a 1"?

It's 1 1/8"

Reducing the rake makes the bike more stable, increasing the rake makes it more agile or "agressive". It's all about trail.

So you'd want a 45mm road fork for more agility.

Reducing the rake makes the bike more stable, increasing the rake makes it more agile or "agressive". It's all about trail.

So you'd want a 45mm road fork for more agility.

That's totally different from what I'd expect. Thought that smaller wheelbase makes for an aggresive bike.

I know it sounds wrong but...

(Taken from wiki)

More trail = more stable
Less trail = more twitchy

So although you shorten the wheelbase, its only by a 10mm or so, which is much less significant than a 10mm longer trail.

I've been wanting to know the ride properties of curved and straight forks for ages, thanks for this...

Cheers Hat He Chewed.
Guess I should be after a different fork then. Seeing as fuji has already 40 mm rake, there is probably not much more I can do with it.

fwiw, I didn't notice any handling difference going from the standard fuji track fork (mine is 61cm so has a 35mm rake) to a 44mm carbon fork.

Yeah, you guys are right, there's more to it than just changing the fork offset (rake). Hat He chewed, are the new forks same length as old ones? I was womdering if you' managed to change the head angle by using a longer fork, therefore negating the additional offset.

To OP: There may be some subtle things you could try, like filing the dropouts out a bit more so that the axle sits higher up the fork, or trying a smaller section tyre on the front. This effective shortening of the fork will lower the head tube and slightly steepen the head angle. Beyond that, a new fork that is shorter than the existing may help to sharpen the handling through adjusting the head angle and stiffening up the front end making it feel sharper too.

Just my take on it!

yep same length, just never noticed a difference.

Anyone seen/can recommend somewhere that still has stocks of the 2008 Fuji Track Pro?

ive been eyeing them up for a long time, but i want to sit on one thats already built up to see how it feels. id find it hard to buy one without trying it out.

sorry dumb question but - i have a fuji track too - i presume the size of the tugnut is to do with the width of the drop (which I think is 8mm?)

tt

tea towels, they're the best chain tugs, work effortlessly, or tennis ball.

Just so you know, it might be worth going one cog either side of the 18 in order to maximise the number of skid patches you are going to get. I think the 18 tooth gives 2 whereas the 17 gives 17 and the 19 gives 19, just a point to try and save you money in the long run. Miche are good so long as you check them regularly for wobbles. I'm running an 19T EAI (from hubjub.com) or 17t Miche (depends on which hills I need to get up).
Also the 17T will fit straight on without you having to alter the chain length (another plus if you can take the slight increase in gearing)
If you haven't had the lock ring/sprocket off that fuji yet you are going to have an evening of fun ahead of you, they are on pretty solidly from the factory (locktight) so might take some swearing to get it off.
Enjoy.

chain whip handle bent
chain on chain whip popped rivets
skin off knuckles
reverse rotafix didnt work (although took a lovely bite out of the bb paint despite using a rag underneath)
will anything shift this fucker?

I agree, but sometimes it's good to invite a little surprise into your life...

That's pretty weird.
I too the original 15t off mu Fuji using 3/32 cheapo chain whip and it wasn't a struggle at all.

That's pretty weird.
I too the original 15t off mu Fuji using 3/32 cheapo chain whip and it wasn't a struggle at all.
had to take it to the shop in the end - blowtorch and a hammer shifted it !

I'm close buying a Fuji Track. I also found a decent deal with cheap delivery to Germany.

At least I'm worried about the tyre width. They're 700x23c. I think 23c is too thin for city use, isn't it? Would the frame take probably 28c, because the newer 2009 version is sold with 700x28c like on evanscycles!

thanks guys
(this forum helped me alot before ;))