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  • Real hard men ride 54/52

  • I've got 50/34 12-28, it was fine at first but over the summer I've got fitter and even riding the biggest hills in the peak I don't need 34x27 any more and I run out of gears down hills too. jumping up to 53/39 might be a bit much though.

  • is this theo?

    Real hard men ride 54/52

  • Yeap, im going 11-27, with 46/34

    wimp gears.

    Spotter has, I think, a 12-36 cassette with 50/34 on his new bike!

    But one of his cassette rings is definitely bigger than his small front chain ring. 19GI!

  • Spotter has, I think, a 12-336 cassette with 50/34 on his new bike!

    But one of his cassette rings is definitely bigger than his small front chain ring. 19GI!

    yes, I checked, 336 is definitely bigger than 34.

  • Guy I know runs 53/39 & 11-21, 10-speed. Old-school hard-man gearing. My legs would break if I tried that nonsense.

    The corncob straight block is for back when everyone was riding like coppi. This will not do your backs any favour on longer climbs but then again the smooth transitions between cogs on a block like that makes shifting such a sensation it does not matter

  • I've got 50/34 12-28, it was fine at first but over the summer I've got fitter and even riding the biggest hills in the peak I don't need 34x27 any more and I run out of gears down hills too. jumping up to 53/39 might be a bit much though.

    52/36 would be idea.

  • ...or just fit an 11t.

  • 52/36 would be idea.

    DA-9000 offers that, wouldn't be surprised if the 4-arm Ultegra 6800 does as well.

  • The corncob straight block is for back when everyone was riding like coppi. This will not do your backs any favour on longer climbs but then again the smooth transitions between cogs on a block like that makes shifting such a sensation it does not matter

    He used to race a bit (in France) and I think he has the 'style is everything' mentality firmly engrained.

  • yes, I checked, 336 is definitely bigger than 34.

    Whoops. 36.

  • yes, I checked, 336 is definitely bigger than 34.

    source?

  • source?

  • Even right now Shimano is heading the right direction with it's budget Claris groupset that come with a 46/34 crankset, much more sensible and still give you a choice to upgrade to a 50t chainring.

  • I've got 50/34 12-28, it was fine at first but over the summer I've got fitter and even riding the biggest hills in the peak I don't need 34x27 any more and I run out of gears down hills too. jumping up to 53/39 might be a bit much though.

    Go 52/36 up front?

    Just to further fuck the porn thread.

    Climbing gears > desending gears. You'll save more time, and your legs, if you can maintain a decent cadence on the way up.

    Having said that. You need to be doing a bloody long climb to want 34:27. My dilema is that I actually do want 34:27 for my occasional bloody long climb. But I actually also use 50:11.

    Currently have, and liked, byt need to replace.
    11-25
    11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 19, 21, 23, 25

    Option 1.
    11-27 cassette.
    11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 18, 20, 22, 25, 27
    But hate the look of the 16 - 18 tooth jump.

    Option 2.
    11-23
    11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 21, 23

    • 12-27
      12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 19, 21, 23, 25, 27
      But thats the expensive option.

    Option 3.
    Found this 11-27, which has the big jump moved to the end.
    11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 19, 21, 24, 27

    hmmm.

  • 12sp and a new bike is the answer.

  • If you worry about the big jump, just get a smaller chainring to use the smaller range of gear, like a 48t chainring.

    How often do you use the 50/11?

  • Or just work on your aero tuck in and keep the focus on the climbing gears : ) You reach escape velocity pretty quick regardless. Unless you sprint a lot in the races

  • Even right now Shimano is heading the right direction with it's budget Claris groupset that come with a 46/34 crankset, much more sensible and still give you a choice to upgrade to a 50t chainring.

    I have 46/34 x 11x28t fitted to Bike2 and really like it. Lots of time spent with a straight chain, or shifting around closely spaced cogs.

  • Have similar on my bike too (46/30 x 12/28t) for that exact reason, if given the choice, I rather have a better ascend gearing than a descend gearing.

  • 12sp and a new bike is the answer.

    My conclusion exactly.

    My 6.5Kg bike is obviously too heavy.
    I need a 5.5kg bike, and a 12 speed 11-27 cassette.

    ......or I could train. I'm not far off decent cadence in 34:25 on a long climb.

    Bollocks. I must need stuff.

  • grab a tt bike from the support car once the descent levels out, smash it to the finish.

  • I've got 50/34 12-28, it was fine at first but over the summer I've got fitter and even riding the biggest hills in the peak I don't need 34x27 any more and I run out of gears down hills too. jumping up to 53/39 might be a bit much though.

    i know a lot of people who grab about 52t or 53t and than i don't see them using the full cassette. My road bike has a 50t/34t with 11-25 and to be honest i think it's great for 99% of the rides.
    Try to set the bike a cassette with a 11t and you'll see that you don't need many changes.
    If you feel that you run out of gears with 50/11 man, than you're ridding hard ;)

  • lest we forget our Alf, who rode 56 x 12/13/14

  • back when men were men.

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