Electronic & Hydraulic Shifting (Di2, Ui2, customisations)

So I thought my di2 battery was dead and ordered another one from Amazon. Turns out a cable had wriggled loose at the shifter so I didn't need a new battery after all.

Before I go through the hassle of sending it back, does anyone on here want it? Got it for a bargain £87 (cheapest online is £110)

My 1x XT Di2 setup has stopped shifting and I'm wondering if anybody might have any insight as to why. I disconnected the wires into the display to change the stem and now the rear derailleur no longer responds to input. My setup is an SC-MT800 connected to a BT-DN110, an SW-M8050 and an RD-M8050, with no other junctions.

• Pressing the button on the display causes the screen to light up and report the correct derailleur position.
  
• Pressing and holding the button on the display until it shows 'P' does indeed cause the derailleur to shift into the largest cog.
  
• Both the Windows and the Android E-Tube apps detect the presence of all four components.
  
• Replacing the wire to the shifter with a different one does not solve the problem.
  
• Swapping the positions of the wires to the shifter and the battery at the display end does not solve the problem.
  
• Unplugging the battery for 30 seconds does not solve the problem.
  
• The battery is fully charged.
  
  

What am I missing? By process of elimination, it seems like the shifter is faulty. But how fragile are these things, and how would I have broken it by disconnecting wires and replacing a stem?

You sure you're plugging it in fully? You sure there's no shit in it that might be breaking the connection?

Does the screen light up when you press the shifter buttons?

@hippy @grams This is going to sound really stupid, but...

I was just double-checking the connections when I noticed that the shifter had some rotational play on the bar. Turns out that I hadn't tightened the clamp enough and that pressing on the buttons many times had led the shifter to rotate towards the brake lever, both of which I have set quite low on the bar. The shifter had rotated just enough that pushing the button caused the mechanical click in the lever mechanism to actuate without actually triggering the electronic switch, which is apparently at the end of the lever throw, because the brake lever was in the way.

Thank you for your suggestions though. I'm very relieved it was actually nothing.

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Well that's a new one and something for me to bear in mind when I get MTBs up and running :)

So after thinking I'd managed to rule out a battery fault with my di2 problem, I took it to a shop who plugged it into the diagnostic software whcih said the battery did have a fault. So it's being sent to Shimano for a possible warranty replacement. Anyone know how long these sorts of things take?

If you want to go quick and you can afford to, you could probably just buy a new one and sell the warranty replacement when it comes. If the shop handling the warranty is the one you bought from, you might be able to get them to give you a new battery to use now and they keep the replacement.

Yeah at the moment things are moving very slowly as stock levels are still very low for Shimano components. A friend of mine has been quoted an ETA of November for a Di2 shifter warranty replacement.

Coincidentally I did manage to rule out a battery fault on my bike (but not until after I'd purchased a new battery) I'm about to send it back to Amazon this week but if you'd like to take it off my hands instead let me know

Thanks both, I thought that might be the case. It isn't the shop I bought the bike from, but I'll hang on a bit before buying a replacement - hoping Shimano might be able to give an ETA soon.

I know you can daisy chain di2 connections but can the signals pass through the shifters?

For example, is this configuration possible:
[battery, RD, FD] -> junction B -> L shifter -> R shifter -> junction A?

This would appear to suggest it might be:

Yup. I’m doing this with no issues.

Awesome. :-)

As yeahdext says, yep, that works. It's how my cyclocross race bike which I've never raced is set up.

The bluetooth thing in the bars seems pointless but as above; it's how I've got my bar-end junction bike set up.

For those with fully hidden cables (i.e. passing inside the stem / headset) I would suggest putting the bluetooth junction somewhere in the stem or just behind the bars to make it easier to disconnect the entire handlebar setup in one go.

Is the Bluetooth just for doing firmware updates etc? It’s not functional during the actual riding of the bike (unless I want to use the secret buttons on top to move between screens on my Garmin)?

The secret buttons are great, plus battery warnings, gear selection (interesting but pointless).

The setup above appears to have two Bluetooth transmitters though which seems a bit OTT.

I put mine just inside the downtube so I can disconnect the bars easily if I want to. Not that I can, given hydro hoses are a bit harder to disconnect.

the BT-DN110 is the battery... it is needed for BT as far as I know but doesn't actually transmit bluetooth.

But the RS910 bar end junction does, so the add-on BT D-Fly unit is pretty redundant.

Edit: RS910 only uses Bluetooth for config. EW111 required for data and buttons.

Edit 2: RS910 has no bluetooth built in. The references in the RS910 User Manual to turning on Bluetooth LE mode only works if you have a D-Fly/EW-WU111 unit connected to the system.

Didn't know that. Might save me on buying another EW111 if I can still connect to it to check battery and firmware via the EW-RS910

Just to add; if you’re a data junkie then hooking a BT module up to your Garmin stores all your shift data into the .fit files and you can review this using di2stats (example attached) but you’ll need to plug it in the configure you’re actual gears - something I forgot to do.
Also the shift beeps are handy when linked. Top and bottom gears and front chainring shift warning - if that’s your thing and you have syncro enabled.

It pained me having to drop £70+ for WiFi again but it is super handy. Why however it wasn’t built into the bar end port though is a mystery. MT800 was capable with a bloody screen.

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The RS910 does not have any Bluetooth gubbins in it.

I'll let you and @Brommers work this one out :)

I didn't think it had bluetooth...