Electronic & Hydraulic Shifting (Di2, Ui2, customisations)

grams is right. The Shimano techdocs are a tad misleading. Double edit time.

EW WU11: when I plug mine in inline, the junction box won't show any lights and the system stops working. Dud?

Have tried different cable combos to rule out a dud cable.

Yeah sorry, the picture was just an example demonstrating the possibility of signals passing through the shifter.

The routing I'm proposing is quite different and involves cabling directly from the junction B to the left shifter. That's the bit I'm not sure will work. Do the two junction boxes need a direct interconnection?

All of the connectors on Di2 are interchangeable and you can connect the system in any shape you like.

(electrically speaking, all of junctions just short the wires to each other)

Have you tried connecting it not-inline (e.g. in place of the RD). Maybe one of the two connectors is duff?

It could also be incompatible firmware versions, although I don't know if that would kill the system completely.

Ok, didn't know if there was some bit shifting / multiplexing going on at the junction boxes.

Can these be used to extend an existing cable?

https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/gear-spares/shimano-duraace-ew79731-rear-derailleur-cable-long-7e3-9803/

Edit: no, this is four core vs. the current two core standard. :'(

Do you want to pop round and inspect my latest di2 wiring. Bar end junction box, internal junction box, stored just above the BB, cable from bar end to right shifter, cable between both shifters and a long cable from the left shifter to the internal junction box.

This is what I have. The obvious problem is if the EW-WU111 (the BT/wireless unit) fails/disconnects I'll lose shifting since it won't work without the A junction. Might want to move that to the left shifter cable when/if I re-tape my bars.

The red(?) cable is heat shrunk together with the hydro hose and enters the frame on the non-drive side.

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Just an FYI, although it's called an "in line" connector, you can just plug in one side of the EW-WU111 and it'll work.

I have it plugged directly into the left shifter on my gravel bike with no cable coming out the back of it. Stuffed it in my bar end, works perfectly.

Yeah, but I don't really want to have 2 separate wires going on the side of the left drop, and I've routed the cables through the internal routing holes in the handlebars... It's not wide enough for two cables (a connector and a cable) so would need to enlarge that hole. And the drivetrain is currently 1x so I only need one shifter to work anyway.

Both shifter buttons are set up the same way except one shifter is reverse, X is Y and Y is X... so I can click the same place/button on both shifters to go up and down the cassette.

Good idea, I'll try it not in-line on either side and see what happens.

The firmware idea makes sense, I just can't 'find' it over Bluetooth to update said firmware in the first place....

This is a similar set-up to what I want to do/need to order wires for. Can I ask how wide your bars are?

40mm C-C, Zipp SC SL70 XPLR bars. If you'd like to improve and move the BT module to the other wire go for 400 or 450mm cable for the RH shifter (purple one in the diagram)

Is there a way to reset the Di2 shift mode to factory? I've somehow managed to activate synchro mode when I just wanted to get rid of semi-synchro

Sweet mine are the 40cm Pro discover bars with the di2 holes close to the bar ends so the same length cables should work. This will save me some messing around with pieces of string to check lengths, Thanks a lot!

You can hold down the button on the Junction A to switch between modes, but you will have to watch some youtube videos to find out exactly how.

Thanks. For posterity it seems to be a double click on the button with the following:

Solid red/green lights: manual shift mode
Twice blinking red/green lights: shift mode 1 (default: semi-synchronized shift)
Three-times blinking red/green lights: shift mode 2 (default: synchronized shift)

So tried it separately, both ends, on two separate Di2 systems....when you plug it in the whole system stops working.

I think it's for the bin!

I need to get Di2 just to have that data on my rides 😎

Just a quick one - is there a known decent alternative to heat shrink for binding my di2 cable to a brake cable outer? Was in a shop the other day and noticed a Specialized in a work stand had something that looked slightly heftier- any ideas?

decent alternative to heat shrink for binding my di2 cable to a brake cable outer?

I went with my all-purpose self-amalgamating silicone tape on dad's Di2 bike

🙌 excellent! Thank you, that will save me having to take things apart 👍🏻

Me again, anyone got a spare cable extender 2 port junction thing?

This guy is looking for just the thing youve got.
Wanted
Edit: or maybe not. His post said earlier all he needs working is the bleed port part, apparently that didnt work out.

Edit2: if anyones got any wires theyd like to get rid of, Im looking for various lengths :)