Audiophiles hifi appreciation thread old and new

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  • I noticed. Keeping an eye out on the 'deal' websites at the moment.

  • Try PC World or Argos?

  • Yeah me too. I could do with 2 more then I have one for every room...

  • Just got my beloved HK430 Twin back from Columbus Radio here in town. Brought in my Realistic (!) Nova 8Bs as well, never had them into a proper shop since purchase - they checked out fine.
    Bill and his team did a great job and the whole set-up is sounding ace now.
    I've included some pics from the shop too.


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  • Cross-posting from the CU forum to see if anyone (particularly the phonophiles here) can help.

    I have a 50Hz-60Hz hum on one channel with only preamp and power amp connected. This problem has only manifested itself with new interconnects. The obvious conclusion is that the ICs are faulty, but I believe it is something more fundamental to the pre or power amp. Here's the results of my testing two sets of ICs, IC1 is a cheap set and IC2 are the new ones.

    Possible conclusions:

    1. Despite the lack of CE markings on either the pre or power amp, I believe that both units are double insulated (ie. no earth connection to the case) as there are only two pins on the mains cable socket. Therefore a ground-lift circuit will not help here.

    2. Because PreTest 3 shows hum on the right speaker I can assume that the R channel on the Power amp is faulty and it is somehow picking up a current on the R channel from somewhere inside the power amp.

    I seem to be able to also create hum on the L channel of the Power amp using either of the L or R preamp channels as sources, but only using IC2, not IC1. I don't have a decent explanation for this. Is it possible that the small amount of resistance in IC1s would isolate the signal sufficiently? Or that interconnects have a sound profile such that they might allow a given frequency to flow or be impeded? That would blow my mind.

    Perplexingly I seem to be able to kill the Power amp R channel hum with IC1s but not IC2s from either L or R pre-amp source. What might explain this?

    I'm going to get both the units serviced but I would really appreciate any thoughts as to what might be going on here as I don't feel qualified to make sense of the results.

  • Next place to check is the phono connectors on the phono amp. They are renowned for developing faults. Sometimes interconnects have slightly varying pin sizes and weights of cable+connector can make a difference. Could be cold solder joint or wear and tear in the connectors.

  • Slightly less interesting than vintage audiophile gear, but I recently bought a Samsung hw-ms650 soundbar (at half price). Desperately needed to simplify my audio set up in the bedroom.

    So far, it is amazing. It's definitely not hi fi but it's so convenient, neat and deceptive in its quality of sound. One single optical cable from the TV and BT streaming or wi-fi for the rest.

    Movies and TV are great. Perfect for a 5x5 metre room. The soundtracks sound great and dialogue really stands out clearly.

    The big surprise is music, totally easy sound, well balanced, enough bass ( no sub ) and nice smooth sound with no real harshness. Very impressive.

    It's almost a perfect 1 box system. Has changed my view on such things.

    The best part is that it's so easy to get music out now that we have it playing way more and my daughter is loving dancing around to it.

  • Did you move any of the positions (or relative positions) of the power cables (and phono cables?).

    Try to avoid running power and phono cables alongside each other and if they need to cross each other try to do so at 90 degrees.

  • Next place to check is the phono connectors on the phono amp. They are renowned for developing faults. Sometimes interconnects have slightly varying pin sizes and weights of cable+connector can make a difference. Could be cold solder joint or wear and tear in the connectors.

    It's a pre and power amp but yeah, I'm basically expecting dry solder and/or worn RCA connectors on both amps. I'll have all the caps replaced at the same time to be safe. The confusing thing is that when you look in to the different test scenarios, the results don't actually make much sense other than there must be several problems overlaying each other. It's useful to have a reference point s0 I can test them after they've been serviced.

    I spent an hour this morning beforehand cleaning the interconnect plugs with alcohol (Lidl's finest Gin as I didn't have any contact cleaner).

  • Did you move any of the positions (or relative positions) of the power cables (and phono cables?)
    Try to avoid running power and phono cables alongside each other and if they need to cross each other try to do so at 90 degrees.

    Good tip. I moved the speaker cable and ICs as far as possible away from any power cables, more so during the above testing. But these little Cyrus amps are so small, everything is rather crowded back there.

  • Cheers!

    Just grabbed one for £25 from here which seems fine. Been meaning to get one for ages and set up my hi-fi again.

    Don't suppose anyone knows if there is anything special about the google RCA Cable?

    Cheers.

  • Don't suppose anyone knows if there is anything special about the google RCA Cable?

    It is expensive and yellow?

  • Nothing special about the cable, any mini-jack to RCA will do.

    I saw that price but I'm betting on it getting cheaper. Probably miss out on a good deal knowing my luck.

  • Figured as much.

    Sure I have a CA one somewhere.

    @Mr_Sworld - it might drop a bit - in which case I'll probably grab a 2nd. But I missed the cheap Chromecasts ages ago and had to wait a while to get one at £20, so figured @£25 it's fine.

  • I'm quite shocked they stopped the production of the chromecast audio to be honest. I can't think of many products that do the same.

    Seems a shame they are pushing their speakers with the audio thing built in.

    I may pick up a couple for when I want to get around to that garage/ kitchen/ outdoor audio project.

  • I imagine the plan will be to replace it with a google version of an Echo Input https://www.amazon.co.uk/Echo-Input-Black-audio-input-Bluetooth/dp/B07CH6JKW3

  • It's what I was saying a few pages back about platform economics creating barriers around music accessibility. The problem is that platform businesses like Google constantly seek ever increasing user lock-in. So you need an account, to set up your Google home network, and with the next iteration use their digital assistant. Pretty soon all our children will have to be called Google in order to listen to music.

  • I actually was having that thought today about the freeunlimited music on Prime... Locking one into amazon unless you're willing to either spend a fortune buying all the music you'll lose it if you leave them.

  • Currys/PC World still have stock of Chromecast Audio...but going fast

  • I had a bit of eBay madness yesterday and have bought myself a (well priced) PSX-R power supply to add to the Cyrus shoebox collection.

    It'll drive the Pre-amp DAC.

    I hope I can tell the difference.

  • you might need better speakers tho ;)

  • Cables too

  • Cables too

    I know you are taking the piss.

  • In the spirit of @freddo 's view, what speakers would people recommend that I upgrade my B&W 602S2s to?

    I would like better sound stage and transparency, whilst retaining or improving bass agility, vocal warmth and, you know, goodness.

    ATC SCM11 and Kef R3 both look like good contenders.

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Audiophiles hifi appreciation thread old and new

Posted by Avatar for coppiThat @coppiThat

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