Any question answered...

Nothing major, it runs really well and takes no maintainance. It was more the setting up, lack of compatible hubs and limited gear choices

Getting the tension right is a pain. Little margin for error.

Belt drive; is it any good or just another part that will die out?

Great tech, but not worth it, much cheaper just to replace chain and cassette than to find where you can order in a new belt for it.

Belt drive; is it any good or just another part that will die out?

It's good for some applications. For a bicycle, a full chain case provides all the benefits and none of the problems.

So how would I go about changing the OLD of the hub even if I did have the apperatus to measure such a thing?

So how would I go about changing the OLD of the hub even if I did have the apperatus to measure such a thing?

Manufacture a new axle (A) and one or both of the spacers (B&C)

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Add spacers/washers inside of the locknut.

AH HA!!! TESTER TO THE REQUE thanks for that diagram, it shoes that the numpty who owned these before me may have put those 2 spacers in the opposite places!

the numpty who owned these before me may have put those 2 spacers in the opposite places!

Seems unlikely, the dishing would be way off and you probably wouldn't have enough dérailleur travel to get bottom gear.

Hmmm, yeah having looked at the diagram maybe not, how would this ever be so far off?

how would this ever be so far off?

How far off is it? You have over long screws holding the hanger to the dropout, which you can fix easily to sort out the lock ring interference. You have fat American aluminium stays which the chain hits, which you can fix by buying a skinny steel Italian frame like Campag is supposed to fit :-)

I'd check the lock ring torque, should be ~40Nm but a lot of people don't tighten them enough and you might win 1/4 turn there, 0.25mm could be enough to fix minor interference issues.

If you could find a shim the right size to go between the axle end cap and spacer B, you could up your OLN to 130.5mm which would cause no new problems anywhere and would probably solve all your old problems at once.

Getting truly nitty-gritty, you could run 11-speed chain to score another 0.1mm of clearance between chain and stay.

How do you create a hyper link that you can copy in to the description of your flickr photos. So I can link viewers to my instagram and website?

I want to be able to just copy this link and paste it into description of numerous photos uploaded?

Is there a thread all about cars which have decided to flip upside down along a similar theme to cars which have decided to crash into buildings?

Not that I'm aware of. This one is entertaining though:
https://www.lfgss.com/conversations/267392

Cleverly bought a bargain Ultegra 10spd cassette - 12-30T. Thought I could whack it on the bike without a compact chainset to give myself slightly better climbing gears. Turns out my old tech 10spd Rival derailleur wont get up to the 30T without interfering on the jockey wheel. Do I need WiFli or long cage rear mech? Any reason I couldn't use a MTB mech? Could also just bin the idea if it's more than £30.

MTB detailleur is your option, even up to 36t, @mdcc_tester can give you some pointer.

I'm going on holiday to Portugal in ten days time. I know that the pound is fluctuating so do I get my Euros or money card sorted now or after the vote? What are this week's lottery numbers too? Thank you.

Judicious dicking around with the b screw might save you but if not a short cage 10 speed SRAM mtb mech such as X9 will work. You'll need an inline barrel adjuster too.

The difference in chain between max max and min min determines the length of cage required but unless you have a bonkers large chain ring short cage should do 39/53 12/30.

How long is it acceptable to wait for a wheel build to be finished before getting a bit annoyed?

a short cage 10 speed SRAM mtb mech such as X9 will work

Official SRAM policy is to use the mid-cage for 2×10 with a big sprocket of 28-32, and long cage for 2×10 with a 36T sprocket.

I have a Sugino chainring bolt which is stuck. My chainring bolt tool doesn't fit. Tried ones in Evans and Condor, both also too big. Suggestions? Would rather not have to resort to filing my tool.

Im using a long cage X9 with sram red shifters with 11-36 and the shifting is gr8

Ah, gotcha. Would be helpful if they listed (or I could find) the chain capacity specs for 'em.

(those guidelines also might be referring to bikes that have squish)

@Howard and @edscoble and @mdcc_tester

Excellent news. Will try fiddling with B screw but otherwise will search for cheap MTB mech. Thanks all.

I've got a couple kicking around - an X9 (short), X0 (long cage) and an X7 (long cage) - you can try one if you like.

Internet seems to think capacity of a short cage SRAM MTB is 32 so with a 53/39 12-30 you would have a set-up that on paper would work if you went short. Unless I can't math.