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Wheels are finally in and mounted, I've chosen the Pro-Lite A21W Iso with Continental GP 4000SII 28mm Reflex, Conti inner tubes and Red Veloplugs under their rim tape, for extra protection against my weight on bumpy roads.
Rotors are 160mm TRP that came with the Spyre's but soon the rear will be a 140mm because they fucked up the frame design or the welding and it has just a 1mm clearance with the chainstay. At least they are sending a 140mm adaptor so I can try that option...
More pictures of the wheels here, they got a nice price tag in wiggle, the set in my scale weighted 1,652kg "naked", and 2,980gr fully built with a 11-28 Ultegra cassette. I'm still waiting for a custom built front wheel with a SP PD-8 Dynamo hub and 32 spokes.
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I'm worried about long and steep descents like 10% avg incline, 15km long, hairpins and blind curves. Not sure if you have tried something like that where you live :(. I got friends that do that with 140 front and rear, but they have a common weight/height, I'm 6'3" and trying to keep under 85kg, but like to recover descending what the midgets normally get away from me on the climbing.
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I really don't know how much difference will make de 140mm in the back, I really don't like it, since they advertise the 4S Disc as 160mm compatible, and they even send the frame with 160mm adapters!! But I'll give it a try in the north mountains, and ask for a refund if it's not enough. They keep saying that flipping shimano tells that 140 its ok
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Be aware that my Kinesis Racelight 4S Disc, and also @TurtleRecall frame, has problems with a 160rotor in the rear brake (with problems I mean a mayor rubbing because there is only a 1mm clearance, but they don't confirm if its a design problem or a batch welding problem... they just sent me a 140mm adaptor)... maybe the Aithein has the same problem, but they didn't answer that neither
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If weights not so much important, maybe these options could help you:
Tarmac 56cm S/R = 564/395
Kinesis Racelight Aithein Disc 56cm S/R = 565.8/397
Condor Fratello Disc 55cm S/R = 570/386
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You know that 56cm Salsa Colossal frame+fork is about 2.9kg (6.39lb) right? http://salsacycles.com/bikes/archive/2014_colossal_2
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£1300 is overpriced for an unknown brand with a catalogue design from one of the far east factories. He is better off with Hong Fu in that case.
Are you serious? Do your research before typing bullshit, just in bikerumor there are reviews from 2012 about their bikes...
Also they are more aero than genesis datum, just saying...
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If you prefer carbon to alloy/ti, for about £1300 you can get (with 15mm fork thru-axle):
http://culpritbicycles.com/collections/road-bikes/products/culprit-croz-blade-frameset
And £3000 for the Di2 and Hydro version:
http://culpritbicycles.com/collections/road-bikes/products/culprit-roadi-ultegra-di2
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He also used conti tyres which means @Hippy wont listen to anything about kit he has to say
I think you're mistaken about that, this article says Schwalbe One tubeless...
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@hippy that should settle it for you... Jesse (#1 in last TransAm) used a SP SD-8 hub (QR) http://www.curvecycling.com.au/blogs/news/35160261-jesse-carlssons-curve-belgie-disc-and-pack-list-for-trans-am-bike-race
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You should read it @amey instead of writting that. I finally chose the QR :D, but haven't adopted it yet.. bike still building, so no adopter here, just a researcher
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"thru-axles tie the fork or frame together in a much stronger, stiffer way"
I've been looking at the QR vs Thru Axle for months before buying a frame... was a main splitter between the options available as a frameset:
I've asked framebuilders: Arregui Velazquez and Perucha, and they just talked about "a well done fork with a good quick release will always stay in the same spot". But sounded to me like "I just trust the traditional way, thru axles are for hipsters"
I've asked frame designers (Dom Mason from Mason Cycles and Bruce Dalton from KinesisUK), and the both responses was a mixed "It's really not necessary & the standards for thru-axle are still settling down". Didn't convince me too much because of the second part sounded like "I don't want to use it because my parts may end up trapped with a deprecated measure"
I've tried discs with QR on a full carbon frameset (Giant Avail, yes a small size for me) and couldn't get it to squeak even doing some cross-country with it (don't tell my girlfriend!) and trying to flex the fork in tight corners. But still was just a ride in the park.. not my usual long ride.
I've tried thru axle in a Cube and couldn't feel anything different on a bumpy road (not my first thru-axle... I've been riding a Salsa DosNiner with a RockShox Reba 20mm axle for the last 4 years). That was my only reason for QR... I've enjoyed a lot my 29er fork, but it's a different riding surface.
I've talked to other mates that ride really hard climbs/descents in Asturias with Cannondale and BMC disc models, and no problems reported. Although they use 140mm rotors (but weight 1/3 less than me), so took the advice as a partial win for QR.
So what I finally took the QR option to not complicate myself yet with one thru-axle standard. But bought a wheelset with hubs that could be adapted in the future ( front: QR or 15mm, rear: QR or 12mm). I'll be a fork away to fix the problem if my Kinesis Racelight 4S Disc gives me any problem.
PS: Also you can ask Josh Ibbett about his last year TCR with QR on a Mason Definition, many others riders got QR with discs as well, and I haven't found a problem report about it
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I would love to have a third bottle cage in the outter of the diagonal tube, but... why a fourth? It would be more efficient to drop the vertical tube cage to be able to use two 750ml/1liter bidons with some space left for a shallow framebag.
Also, even the fork cages makes more sense that the fourth cage.
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You can always remove the white decals https://www.lfgss.com/conversations/251045/ from the cranks
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Pressing the little button on the side didn't work?
The little button on the side of the Flex Hose just releases the pressure inside the hose, it's not a shortcut to avoid screwing the hose on the valve.
@TurtleRecall I suffer that problem sometimes with continental inner tubes with removable valve cores, but still haven't found a better pump (flex hose is a great feature for me). Just avoid tightening too much, and carry a valve core tool just in case
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£45 for brake pads!?
What? Google some more: http://www.probikeshop.es/pastillas-swiss-stop-disc15-s-shimano-tektro-quad-trp/108145.html
2 sets of pads = 41,8€ = £31,64 (getting free shipping costs for an order over 60€ = £45,41)
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At many other forums like velocipedesalon they always recommend SwissStop 15s (sintered)
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I just saw the film, subtitles help because it's all in German, but the 4 bonus video doesn't have any subtitles ...
Have anyone seen Damon Peacock about LEL and/or PBP? Last PBP Doc is also in vimeo
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@hippy have you talked to any TransAm finisher (that is also not rich) from Europe about how they managed it? Take for example the post from @CarlosBI (Spain) about his costs and how he managed to finance less than 19% http://translate.google.com/translate?js=n&sl=es&tl=en&u=http://biziosona.com/2015/05/04/preparando-la-transam/
Has anyone been able to find/create an adapter to mount a Supernova light in a GoPro bracket? I'm thinking about a Garmin/GoPro handlebar mount, but with the light beneath
The light would be a Supernova E3 Triple 2, that has a round beam, so if I mount it inverted will make no difference.