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I'm wanting to get the front end lower on the Canyon.
The problem is that the headset bearing cover (which Canyon calls a transition plate) has 10mm of stack. And they no longer sell a lowstack version of it.
The solution is, find one of those used (part no. 123757), order a 1.25" headset cap from the U.S for about £35 or, 3D print one.Finding one used would be perfect but very unlikely. I also don't really want to spend £35 or more importing a 3g piece of alu from America.
I have access to a friends 3D printer but have absolutely zero skill in CAD. I think it's slightly more complicated than just making a ring with an internal diameter of 1.25" as it needs to properly compress the headset bearings.
Second is something that I keep reading, that I'll "want to replace the compression spacer, you need a traditional top cap and expansion plug so you can compress the headset normally." I don't really understand this. From what I understand the bolt on the back of the usual 10mm headset cap doesn't really do anything other than hold the fork when the stem is removed. So I don't know if this is referring to an older version of Canyon's annoying headset/steerer system?If anyone can help or enlighten me please do!
Picture below is what I'm trying to make (they are not using the standard headset cover and are using the usual compression plug so maybe the above statement is incorrect?):
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The 10mm spacer under the stem has a bolt and thread?
If so, that is holding the preload to the headset bearings so the stem is just clamping to the steerer and not actually compressing the bearings like on a normal headset.
I think all you need is a regular expanding bung, top cap and bearing cover to convert the headset to a regular type which will be compressed via the expander and cap and held by the stem.
The problem is that you won't find the aero shaped bearing cap other than the canyon one but you should be able to find a round one. It just won't match up with your stem as neatly. Like the certified slammed one.
Something like this maybe
https://acros-components.com/en/steuersaetze/is44-steuersatzdeckel-ai-70-4,5mm?c=219 -
There is an expander inside the steerer, Canyon's own one.
I don't really understand how the headset cap I'm using (the one I've linked above, with a bolt and thread) would actually preload the bearings? Turning the bolt pushes a wedge horizontally not vertically so unless I'm not looking at it right it doesn't really do much.
The example pics I've shown above both use Canyon's expander inside the steerer (same style as I'm using) so I'm assuming it does preload the bearings similar to a standard expander and topcap.
It's hard to get an actual answer - here somone seems to agree 'Canyon ... use this locking type spacer so they can ship the bikes with the handle bars off without losing headset preload.'
And in a Canyon manual, I assume referring to the same part, 'Some models are fitted with a
transition plate. This part is designed to keep the set bearing play even with the stem or cockpit dismounted. This transition plate as well as the fork steerer clamping must be released to re-adjust the headset. The transition plate therefore only is an assembly aid.'A round, very slim bearing cap would be fine. I think if it's very low profile it shouldn't look too out of place.
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A round, very slim bearing cap would be fine. I think if it's very low profile it shouldn't look too out of place.
Anything like what tester sells?
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Ah I see. Well anyway, don't worry about it too much. Just know you will need a new expander, top cap and bearing cover.
Some giant bikes also use a 1.25" steerer so a headset cover might work for you.Canyon do a kit to convert but it won't get you any lower stack but you can see the principle
https://www.canyon.com/de-de/fahrradzubehoer/fahrradteile/anbauteile/fahrradlenker-vorbau/canyon-gp0193-01-umbaukit-cockpit-zu-lenker/10002909.html -
I don’t think it will if I understand it right, the only thing that should change is the headset bearing cap seeing as I’m using the same bar/stem. The aero shaped one should be compressing the stem and headset cap just like any other shaped one would. I could be getting it all wrong.
Only other problem is the expander is stuck… -
Yes the bearing cover doesn't preload it itself, it just holds the preload. The same as a stem would on a normal set up. So you are fine to just remove it and swap it for a round one.
I was just going by what I'd seen online including the acros website and the official canyon conversion kit and which includes a new expander and cap but you should be fine using your existing bung assuming you either have it at a suitable depth already or you're able to get it out and refit assuming you want to cut down the steerer. -
The set of Prime Black Edition carbon wheels shown on a previous page are up for sale/swaps.
I’m looking for some lightweight alloys with Hope hubs in black.
Reason for them going is trouble getting the correct axle for the rear. Currently QR with TA front.
Let me know if you are interested! Would have to be in London to swap.Gone^
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About 1200km on this in January which is a nice start to the year.
The drivetrain has been parts-washed and I've put some Vittoria Corsa Controls on in 30mm.
A bit of a twinge in my back has appeared so put 10mm under the stem, which makes all the effort I put into slamming the stem pointless for now... I didn't even had the chance to put the new headset cap on...
I've swapped the Tune seatpost for a Thomson as the clamping mechanism is so much easier to adjust, as I'm really particular about having the saddle exactly right.
The bike looks a bit regents park weekend warrior, I'll be honest.Should be ready for another few thousand KM.
When I have some more money I'll get some proper lights for this so I can audax on it.
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@Maj Every man into bikes is somewhere on the regents chopper - oat flat white top tube sitter axis. Maybe less of an axis more of a puddle on the floor? I aim to exist outside this paradigm.
@PhilDAS It's going on my track bike (pictured below, now has Sugino 75s and SPD-SLs) for now! I ride the Aeolus on all my bikes (will have one on my track bike come racing season) and I really like it. It's hard for me to compare it to much else but I find the centre channel adds tonnes of comfort. I've done 400km on it and the only soreness was from the fact it's fairly unpadded. If I had a spare one I'd lend it to you!
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Centre channel is a must for me, I get numbness and sometimes sharp pains if I ride one without a channel or cutout but I still get soreness around the sitbones after an hour or so on the Power. I've been trying a Fabric Line S on the arkose which is quite squishy and is an improvement on soreness which makes me think perhaps more padding is what I need, not less. At least off road.
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The bike looks a bit regents park weekend warrior, I'll be honest.
I think the time of day at which one is at regents says more about them than the bike tbh (though, perhaps bike reflects the time of day reflects when one goes). The type A choppers tend to show up early whereas as those who show up in the pm when it's dark and wet (the best time to be there!) tend to be less PNS in nature.
also nice milage for jan sans gaurds!
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ultra roadie
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@samrensho
Offensive to suggest a Short King can spare the stand over height.