Hedging against future inflation rises.

https://www.peterwhitecycles.com/downloads/sch-y-junc-inst.pdf

That does look extremely fiddly, especially with not much cable to work with. I'd be inclined to just extend the coax down to the hub and skip the junction box. Can always insert one later, and you'll have more length to work with.

Edit: I may have misunderstood the Son light wiring completely, I've soldered Son coax before but mated it to a B+M light via crimped spade connectors at the light end.

update??

The bike is giving me an existential crisis. I have about 60 pounds worth of coaxial SON edelux wire, adaptors, etc in my SJS basket and it makes me want to die. Who am I. Why have I done this. Why does SON use a coaxial cable anyway. Why do they have a little adaptor widget for plugging the coax adaptor into the dyno hub itself. What was wrong with my Croix De Fer, sure it couldn't fit 650 x 2.2 but who cares.

Will try and build the easy parts of the bike itself on the weekend then roof rack it over to LBS to do brakes + whatever else I haven't done.

Can't face the lighting part right now.

More positivity needed! My own Faran is hopefully inbound end of summer (to replace a CdF)!

Though I’m not getting a dynamo…

It's summer, the lighting is the least important part!

I guess the only thing more baller than an overpriced dyno hub is not bothering to plug it into anything.

You don’t need the plug that plugs into the plug hehe. But it does make getting the wheel off easier.

😂

Bike build day today. First thing after getting the frame in the stand I destroyed the nds bb cup.

How much is a hope bottom bracket with unused bearings and a fucked nds cup worth.

1 Attachment

should be salvageable no?

carefully file down the fucked threads and screw in what's left?

lets have a go

Let's never talk about it again.

1 Attachment

Show cat

bravo 👏

After that debacle I decided to focus on something I had experience with. This inflated tubeless with the valve core in. One layer of tape. Mountain bike tubeless stuff seems years ahead of the gravel things. Never seen a valve with this design though I can see how it's useful. Just the one the bike shop sold me. No idea of the brand.

2 Attachments

Thanks for the encouragement. I was lying in bed, catatonic with depression after threading my barnoldswick wanker bearing cups. I had phoned my sister, who was asking if she should come over.

"You sound really down" she said.

I told her that if she understood the amount of frivolous spending that I'd done to end up here she would have no sympathy for me whatsoever.

Then whilst she was trying to talk to me I found someone on google who said that you can basically rethread things with a triangle needle file, which is a tool I have for some reason. Spent a bit of time running it through the threads to tidy them and used a rag to help me turn the cup by hand instead of resorting to the bracket tool and managed to do it.

I really hope my LBS don't read this forum because if it starts to creak I'll be taking it to them and claiming I have no idea who fitted it.

She sleep

1 Attachment

much better than my suggestion - i would have repaired it beyond use

I figured out that I actually just hadn't squashed those valves in tight enough... can't believe that the tyre went up and held air like that.

My tubeless tape is like 2mm too narrow for the rim. I'm sure this will cause a huge issue one day but I'm not buying more tape right now.

I love her 👁👄👁

My tubeless tape is like 2mm too narrow for the rim. I'm sure this will cause a huge issue one day but I'm not buying more tape right now.

If you do, grab some of that pretty green "high temp masking tape". Very nice to use, various widths, and - not being a cycling product - probably cheaper than Stans.

Guess who just found out his rear wheel doesn't fit his frame.

Is there any way to tell whether it's a boost hub or just a regular hub with boost end caps?

1 Attachment

The suspense is killing me, can you get non-boost end caps for these?

i thought these hubs were the same it was just the end caps and rotor spacers that were interchangeable...

https://www.hopetech.com/products/hubs/mountain-bike/pro-4-rear-hub/#tech

Available in 135mm and 142mm widths
Conversions available for QR, 10mm bolt in, 10mm, 12mm, 142x12mm and 148x12mm thru axles

Yes I'm hoping it's a normal Pro4 hub with boost endcaps, rather than a 148 hub. The 148 hubs on the website say "148" on them so I'm hoping it's the former rather than the latter. Would love to know a way to check if anyone has one.