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• #10827
ignoring the lack of worktops (being bought elsewhere), and ignoring the colours (I've got sampkes and the render doesn't do it justice...)
what do folks think about this arrangement? The bin will be in the island at the corner close to hob. The sink will be under the shorter wall unit in case that's not clear. Oven and micro in the tall unit to the right. Integrated dishwasher next to sink.
Should I change the corner wall unit to a normal unit and just have it facing the same direction as the rest?
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• #10828
Here's what the 'reed green' looks like IRL
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• #10829
Looking good, we've a similar colour scheme.
I think your the hob should be nearer to your oven/micro though, i would find it annoying to have my back turned to the oven as I'm working on the hob. -
• #10830
I'm installing a Miele extractor in recirculation mode (due to MVHR), and am looking to use a silencer between the extractor and the in-room vent: https://www.ductstore.co.uk/acatalog/150mm-dia-attenuators.html
Will this likely make much difference? Just thinking the majority of the noise will be made by the airflow through the grease filters, carbon filters and the grille of the in-room vent...
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• #10831
I think I asked this before, but can't find it. What's the best product to use to coat plywood walls/ceiling in my extension? Something matt, but which will protect from mucky fingerprints etc.
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• #10832
Osmo/Rubio Monocoat Oil 2C if you want hardwax oil, or Bona Mega if you're into polyurethane.
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• #10833
Looking for some shutters just for one window. Had shutterly fabulous and Hillary’s come in. They’re much of a muchness, similar long lead times, both hardwood made in and shipped from china, similar cost after Hillary’s ludicrous discount. Seemed fine so may just pull the trigger on the latter purely cos the guy seemed alright and lives round the corner and the tilt mechanism was better.
Don’t really want to drag this out as they seemed fine, but any better smaller companies perhaps that anyone would recommend?
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• #10834
My wife has just booked a 2 hour meeting with a 'cuisiniste' on Saturday. Should be fun with my 3 and 4 year old monsters running around the place.
Never bought a kitchen before, if it comes out at 40k I'm going to kill myself.
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• #10835
that's a 'tablet time for kiddos' meeting if I ever heard of one
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• #10836
As part the works in my place, i'm getting a window knocked through into a big patio door. It'll be about 280cm high, which is too high for a door. So I'm getting a door and a transom window above.
My builder wants to just bolt the two (timber) frames on to each other and fit them like that. The window company is advising a mullion or transom going horizontally across to sit between the door and the window above. They say it's harder to seal the gap against draughts if it is just two frames joined up.
Anyone else have experience of this?
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• #10837
Parapet trim almost done, electrics fitted, kitchen most of the way there…
Can almost smell the seductive musk of living there again…
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• #10838
Nice to see a person for scale, looks much roomier than I'd thought. Nearly there.
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• #10839
The optimal solution depends on which window/door products you’re looking to use, and how the two elements will interface.
I’d say that ‘bolting the two together’ does sound like a bodge, although airtightness can be easily achieved by using correct gaskets/expanding foam tape.
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• #10840
Call complete shutters woodford.danny will be cheaper than hillarys etc.
Hillarys are an awful company btw id rather cut my arms and legs off than deal with them again
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• #10841
Yep, I think you might be right. Or muggins here will end up chasing after them whilst my wife gets to pick the kitchen of her dreams.
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• #10842
ha, okay. thanks for the tip....
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• #10843
You'll save probably 20pc using him rather than hillarys
He uses real wood too.
You can tell him jack from herongate rd referred you and he can thank me later. -
• #10844
they are timber windows with alu cladding.
I'll be using airtightness tape on all the window fittings, but i can't see how that could be applied to two window frames. Maybe on the exterior rather than the interior?
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• #10845
Which actual products? Velfac/Rationel/Internorm/IdealCombi etc?
If you absolutely cannot avoid having to join and seal two disparate frames, then I would use two strips of expanding foam tape such as Ilbruck TP600, in an appropriate thickness. This will act as a weather seal and airtightness layer.
But having said that, why don't you just get the doors, transom and window made as a single complete unit?
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• #10846
Thanks!
Yeah, in photos it looks smaller than it feels IRL. The kitchen is a 5.8m x 5.6m space, so much bigger than anything I could have imagined having.
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• #10847
Klar windows - estonian company https://klarhome.com/
They don't offer that service (which is part of the reason they are so cheap). I will see what my builder says. He's not a bodge type really. I'll see if I can figure out why he's opposed to a transom.
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• #10848
The company don't sell a frame/overpanel so I guess it's scenario 2.
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• #10849
But you said that Klar are themselves suggesting integrating a transom into the entire unit? Why not just do this?
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• #10850
I've just had a look at Klar's prices, and they're not too far off those of Velfac/Rationel tbh. I'd get quotes from a couple of suppliers for the above if Klar can't produce what you need.
Sl hardwoods used to do veneered ply. Not the widest range but good enough.