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• #552
Interesting, will give a try when I buy another brush. Cheers.
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• #553
Spamming pics lately but I’m just enjoying it Soo muchhhhh
Finished off the five heavy intercessors I had built up and primed, realllly happy with them
Completes this stint of a custom chapter idea I had, great to see it come from a late night idea to painted models
Wild point wise this is about a quarter of a 2000pt army??? Shit took like… 100 hours , unreal
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• #554
rosemary & co are a tier under w&n but are also decent. think it's the 8 and 43 ranges for minis
but also a pot of these for bulk work will see you right for a very long time.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B004V983ZK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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• #555
Anyone know why I'm not getting email notifications on new posts even though I've ticked the 'follow' and 'notification' button?
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• #556
You need to recite the litany of ignition to appease the machine spirit
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• #557
Thanks for all the brush chat. Plenty to think about but someone said a different brush for metallics. This is news to me, are metallics particularly bad for brushes or something? I normally just use the same one for most stuff unless I need a smaller brush for detail etc.
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• #558
Some people will use a separate water pot + brushes for metallics, and I think it's predominantly to stop from getting any of the metallic flake in your non metallic paint. No idea about metallics being bad for brushes though.
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• #559
Metallics can contaminate other paints but also they're bad for the brushes, it's like painting with liquid sandpaper due to the pigment size. I don't use separate water pots but if I've been doign metallics I'll wash and refill it before moving on to other bits.
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• #560
The more you learn the more you realise how little you know!
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• #561
From what I've read, the metallic particles can become stuck in natural hair brushes, but it isn't really a problem with synthetics
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• #562
Corpse paint ork for my new AoS army. Theoretically quite quick but we'll see how it fairs across the whole army.
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• #563
Nice! Love a good orc. Used to have an orcs and goblins army back in the Old World. Still got the Games Day black orc mini in packaging - probably 25 years old!
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• #564
Barring some small detail these are done. Tried some new techniques on these so they don't prefectly match the other 5 but that's ok. Just need to decide on a pack marking and pop a few transfers on. Pretty pleased with how they turned out.
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• #565
These look great!
And thanks. I had Orcs + Golbins in WHFB as a kid. I have an unpainted copy of WHFB 6th ed starter set with the orcs and empire, need to paint it up at some point.
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• #566
These look great. An infernus squad is my next project - attempting to paint them all the same colour theme, which isn't something I've done before. I'd be happy if they turn out anywhere near like this.
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• #567
This is cool
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• #568
Thanks, and @zooeyzooey too!
I picked these up relatively cheap on ebay, seems everyone bought the Leviathon box for half of the minis. I'm not a fast painter and I don't get a lot of time for painting so these have probably taken me a month. To save some time I skipped a step in building up the greys on some of them and tbh you wouldn't notice it. I enjoy painting but six layers on power armour does become a bit of a chore!
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• #569
Does it look like battle damage, or does it look like I've dabbed it all over with a sponge? Part of me thinks if light blue armour got damaged, it wouldn't be black underneath. Something doesn't look quite right.
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• #570
You can hit the edges of the dark bits with an intermediate colour to make it look like they're chips going through a layer of armour
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• #571
To ask ask a dumbass question. In this case would that be a darker blue? Between light blue and black?
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• #572
In this instance I'd probably try a very light grey blue first
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• #575
As sumo said, the intermediary colour on the edges can do a lot, but, I would say for an army painting perspective this level of sponge chipping is pretty fine though! If this model was on the table around 50 others done in the same way, it would look cool, and from a distance, would be a convincing effect, all depends on the levels you want to take it to.
A quick way to improve sponge chipping is it go in with a brush and put silver inside a couple of the bigger chips done with a sponge, to look like they've gouged deeper. Doing it just a couple of times on the model will sell the chipping a bit more.
Don't buy AO brushes. Buy the ones I linked for 1/3 the price but just as good