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• #3977
Yep. I think at least some people who race with MT brakes do this already.
There's also the BAT dial thing you can get which alters the bite point but AFAIK it can only bring the bite closer to the bar.
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• #3978
I have no BAT adjuster on any of my levers (went with the old levers on the MT7's, was never present on the Trail-SL's).
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• #3979
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• #3980
It’s weird they seem to only supply it if you ask for it. Maybe it’s useless.
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• #3981
It came on both my MT7 levers, the adjusters don't do anything with the new levers though.
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• #3982
If I overfill the brakes slightly should I remove the bleed-screw before pushing the pistons back, or am I over-thinking this?
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• #3983
You should. Popped lever seals may occur otherwise
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• #3984
It occurred to me as I suspect what happened last weekend was that the fucked threads on the bleed screw let mineral oil out when I pushed the pads back, and as oil went out air came in.
I'll bring the bike up and have more of a play with it, feel like I'm getting to grips with the brakes a little more. If I can get a nice early bite with plenty of both power and modulation that would be my ideal.
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• #3985
Right hand XTR 9100 I spec EV shifter - are there any to be had anywhere in the world, that will deliver to the UK?
Also, related, Magura Shiftmix 4, RH, same question.
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• #3987
That's the one, how can I tell whether I'd be paying German VAT and UK VAT on top I wonder?
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• #3988
Yeah there's a chance you'll get stung or hope that it makes it way through without additional charges.
Could contact the seller and ask if they'd deduct the German VAT but I'd imagine they probably won't be interested.
It really doesn't seem to be in stock anywhere else though so might be the only option for the foreseeable.
The Shiftmix 4 thing is in stock at bike-discount and they will deliver to the UK but there's a €135 minimum order and they don't have the XTR shifter in stock.
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• #3989
IG definitely monitoring my movements -
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• #3990
Why would you put either of those on something that's just going to hit a tree?
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• #3991
Why would you put either of those on something that's just going to hit a tree?
Literally just received one in the workshop that got hit by a tree.
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• #3992
At least that's a bit cheaper SLX
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• #3993
Don’t make the bike the victim here. Trees are static.
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• #3994
Same thing has happened again, one side the pistons won’t extend, other side right out, hardly any power
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• #3995
I can find no leaks anywhere, and the lever won’t pump up, but it feels like there’s not enough fluid- you can pull the lever to the bars. Could there be an issue with the reservoir allowing fluid into the master cylinder? I’m really lost for what else it could be.
I’m tempted to buy another brake and stick it on, see if I have the same problems. It’s always been the back that is problematic.
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• #3996
Possibly there might be air trapped in the side of the caliper that the bleed nipple is.
The pistons won't all move at the same time, just the ones with the least resistance then once they touch the next one will begin to move (obviously the movement is tiny), but they should be all engaged when the lever is pulled.
I feel like if you ever solve this you deserve some kind of accreditation from Magura
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• #3997
I cannot offer technical advice on these, but at what point do you call it a day?
Is there any reason to pursue Magura over other brands?
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• #3998
Sunk cost fallacy really, I’ve put so much time and effort into trying to get functional brakes, and I am ridiculously stubborn.
I guess I could sell everything and just get Shimano, but that feels like admitting defeat.
Would people blame me for giving in now?
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• #3999
How many hours of riding have you missed out on?
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• #4000
Not much, I’ve had to cut short a couple of rides, and I lost some time in Morgins, but a lot of the time when the full-sus is borked I grab the hardtail and use that- which also has Magura brakes, but they work.
Ok, bite point. I pushed the pistons all the way back into their bores, then bled the system.
If I pushed the pistons back, then put a bleed block in that was slightly sanded down and operated the brake lever, thus allowing the pistons to crown slightly before bleeding - I'm guessing this would move the bite point to a shorter throw of the brake lever?
Context here is that I used to give my Shimano brakes a little push of fluid whilst nipping up the calliper bleed screw and that put the bite point in a much better place than if I just closed the system up without doing so (I was over-filling the system, according to Shimano).