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• #3953
Ah OK, do you have the bleeding edge thingy on the calipers?
I've found the bleeding edge system easier to use than anything else in terms of the simple push and pull process with the syringes.
But I hate the way fluid always pisses out at the lever end when you remove the syringe
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• #3954
These arrived this morning, although no Norbar yet:
The old one was looking a little sad:
Currently, in the stand, everything is working, with no mineral oil on the outside of the system:
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• #3955
Just read some of the Magura saga - probably the most frustrating experience i've had with brakes & they're not even mine! They do look the part though
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• #3956
They will, I have every confidence, become brakes that “just work”, any day now.
In other news this arrived today and was extremely effective- cleaned and lubricated the front calliper pistons easily, safely and rapidly.
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• #3957
Did you think - "why the hell aren't these more common?"
Like I did?
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• #3958
Yes
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• #3959
Sonic screwdriver has shipped, will it arrive tomorrow in time for the weekend, or Monday? Of course it's going to be Monday.
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• #3960
Link for the screwdriver would be appreciated. I have these bleed screws on the TT bike and have always done them by hand. They are like cheese.
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• #3962
Wild
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• #3963
I admit that I can’t think of many other things that this will be useful for- but I enter every day with the expectation of surprise, so we shall see.
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• #3964
Good grief, that is wild.
I was going to suggest you look up the term 'Shigura' - using shimano levers with magura calipers. Although other brands of levers can be used, apparently trickstuff levers can be used.
But now that you've bought such a niche torque wrench, changing the levers seems unlikely.Still, maybe read up on it just incase...
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• #3965
+1 for changing levers to shimano....
then the calipers etc
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• #3966
using shimano levers with magura calipers.
I don't really understand why anyone would do this - unless they are totally fed up with Shimano callipers shitting the bed.
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• #3967
I’ve tried it before. Bore and stroke of the MC just isn’t the same. Lever feel of Maguras is also lovely
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• #3968
Yeah, I can't condone it too much since I don't really know enough about it. It doesn't necessarily have to be Shimano levers, apparently Trickstuff levers and Hope yield good results. Only certain combinations work depending on piston and reservoir size.
It seems that a lot of folk dislike some attributes of Magura levers and there is a massive thread on one of the german forums about it here . Theres various other threads about it there too.
Trickstuff themselves have posted on the forum agreeing that certain combinations works very well, but it does seem like its tinkering just for the sake of tinkering though.
Edit -
'Trigura' set up here with trickstuff themselves condoning it!Another thread here with some talk on it.
Dunno if it would really be worth the effort but interesting reading.
@Chak What caliper/lever combination did you try?
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• #3969
Right, come at me bleed screws.
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• #3970
POC Kortal MIPS first ride today, conclusion is that it’s very comfortable, doesn’t feel like a coal scuttle which was what I expected from the size.
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• #3971
Noice. Was looking at those at work but didn’t have much to compare it to. They don’t look...mushroomy.
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• #3972
Quickly did all the bleed screws up this morning before heading out, I can reveal that "terrified of stripping the threads" is nowhere near 0.5Nm. It's quite reassuring when doing up a screw that is so delicate to know that you can't go past the correct amount of force.
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• #3973
295's brakes worked yesterday, 529's brakes worked today. I feel that we're making progress.
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• #3974
Did 40km on a cargo bike with MT4s today - they worked, and the front improved when I burned all the crap off it on Broomfield Hill - but wished it had the four pot on the front.
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• #3975
The Trail brakes do feel more powerful than the MT7’s, which of course is one four piston and one two piston vs two four piston calipers. Riddle me that, Batman.
ah ok, this is kinda what I've found with my sram codes.
The official sram instruction says rotate the contact adjuster all the way in the opposite direction of the arrow. But if you do that then once the bleed is finished the dial is at its maximum setting and you can only adjust it making the lever come closer the bar. Which is the exact opposite of what you'd want.
Bleeding it with the adjuster set half way in the direction of the arrow gives it a more meaningful adjustment. I've never understood how the official sram instructions can be wrong!
@Dogs do you have contact point adjustment on your sram brakes? Is this your experience too?