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Colour matching is the easy part.
Decals/graphics can be a bit of a pig.
Transfer/sticker kits are a bit naff...Some can react badly to the solvents in paint products and bubble or even dissolve.
They aren't resilient to heat so you can't assist the curing process or polish over them very well.
They create a barrier between the clearcoat and the paint so there is no chemical bond... meaning the finish is as strong as the glue on the back of the transfer.
You can see the edges. BLEURGH!
You can FEEL the edges. DOUBLE BLEURGH!
They can fade significantly in sunlight.
I think most painters will agree that decals should be painted on. It just represents a far superior level of finishing throughout.
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That's pretty wild!
Not that it's to my taste.
I'd like to know what they've done though: there are no details on Flickr or their website.
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Graphics are added in the traditional stencil/airbrush method but there are a couple of 'secret recipe' tweaks to the process and ingredients.
With the gun choice, there's an option to use different styles, which will alter the appearance of the product as too, will the mixing ratio. The most likely choice in the automotive industry would be a 'schutz' but we're using a specific HVLP set up.
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Yes, decals are not suitable for most of the high end shit we do, and I've only ever done graphics in paint, but they have their place. I think ruling out the use of decals completely is a bit off putting for some people.
Like I said, I've never used them up til now, but if somebody specifically asked me to use a set of supplied decals for some specific reason, who am I to tell them no.
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Yup.
Fully agree.
Decals are shit.
I'll do everything to convince customers not to use them but if they're insistent then yeah... we'll do it. -
Another amazing work on a Stinner...Can't wait to see the rest of it.
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Yup.
Vector files are used to cut the paths from a sheet of vinyl.
The vinyl stencils and masks are stuck on the frame using a release tape.
Paint products are applied through or over the stencils and masks.
Stencils and masks are removed leaving paint in the desired 'shape'.The paint products themselves do build up at the edges of the graphics.
We combat this by using smaller needles and nozzles, thinner products and being delicate and methodical with paint application. We can remove some of that edge build using mild solvents.Once the basecoats are clearcoated and cured, you can sometimes feel a slightly raised edge of a graphic beneath the clear. The job then is to remove that edge in the wet flatting and polishing stages.
The ultimate goal on a well executed finish is to have a surface that is smooth to the touch throughout.
It's never that easy but that's the end result you work towards.
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Same.
It's clearly had a lot of work go into it.
PhilDAS
general_greyharbour
Tychom
Scilly.Suffolk
hippy
Thrust
pacef8
Aldersbrook
Howard
Lolo-
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Quite doable lad.
Quite doable indeed.
Your main expense here would be having the frame chemically stripped as opposed to being blasted. Blasting of most kinds will alter the surface of the metal. Uniformly of course but it will still appear dull... you need some kind of consistent shine for candy to be effective... that's why in most cases, candy will go over silver or gold (or oddly, gloss black).
Are you after just the candy red or the original branding too?