frankenbike's frankenbikes

Thats a 1"1/8 threaded fork. There aren't a huge amount of stems about. Might be cheaper to get threadless forks. Especially if you're going with drops (so will want higher overall bar height) so you can leave a longer steerer.
£25
Make sure axle to crown measurement is the same though.

It's 1" diameter, just measured to check. Unless it's one of those weird bike things where 1"1/8 doesn't actually relate to the measurement (e.g. wheel sizes)

The quill stem I've got is a 3ttt Status, 22.something mm

Won a set of 26" wheels on eBay, cassette splines (99% of rim brake MTB wheels I've looked at are screw-on), tyres and tubes included, with single-speed adaptor kit... for £5! Bargain.

Only problem is that they're collection only in Cornwall and I live in Edinburgh. By coincidence my brother's going down next weekend so I'll either get him to post them to me or collect them next time I'm in Birmingham. It's slowly coming together. Still need to:

• figure out seatpost size. Apparently some Marin bikes used 26.4mm? Really not keen on dragging the frame to a bike shop to use one of those measurement things. Unless I can somehow transport the frame on a pannier rack or in a massive rucksack.
  
• figure out what I'm doing about shifters. Still have the 8-speed bits but there are 10-speed SRAM MTB shifters for <£10 on eBay - just not sure about clamp sizes. Single-speed is a good option in the meantime though.
  
• remove the fucking stem
  

Fair enough. I figured they were 1 1/8 as the other forks in the picture didn't fit.

Unless I can somehow transport the frame on a pannier rack or in a massive rucksack.

@tallsam Nah, that was just because the threaded section is too short. Headtube on the bike I nicked them from must be small.

@Constable_Savage Right, just have to learn to wheelie then!

In fact how is he even doing that? I thought you needed to feather the back brake in a wheelie. He's either very well balanced or he has his rear brake on the right hand lever instead (is that the European way of doing it? Or it just the shifters that they switch?).

You don't switch the shifters, just the brakes. Pretty sure he's got the rear brake on the right side.

Hmm, thought I remembered my friend's bike having the shifters in the wrong hands and him telling me it was the European way of doing it. But now that I think about it I've never heard of a left-hand rear shifter and vice versa so I must be mis-remembering.

Hmm, thought I remembered my friend's bike having the shifters in the wrong hands and him telling me it was the European way of doing it. But now that I think about it I've never heard of a left-hand rear shifter and vice versa so I must be mis-remembering.

You have the front brake, front shifter left and the rear brake, rear shifter right.

I have a Shimano triple crankset to play with. What should I do?

• 50t "bash guard", 44t chainring
  
• 44t outer, 39t middle but still 1x, so I can change gear ratios slightly, albeit with a terrible chainline in the 44t case
  
• ugly single ring 44t or 39t (middle chainring position)
  
• bad chainline single ring 44t or 39t (outer chainring position)
  
  

Alternatively I could just install my 3x8 derailleur and levers, but it's not exactly fashionable.

Middle chainring position, 1x using the 39 or lower tooth count. I have 1x10, classic 32 front and 11-36 cassette, no issues. Bit spinny for onroad but works fine uphill.

What should I do?

Keep the triple. It's the new 1x.

But it's ugly! It'd look like this

Old towel, don't worry

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Considering your user name and the thread title, I assumed this would be less of an issue ;)

Fair point! Well it's moot for now anyway, as I've hit another snare. Need to borrow some more tools before I can swap the BB.

Old towel, don't worry

I got you fam

Well, looks like I'm going with 50t/44t... somehow managed to round all of the chainring bolts. Tried two different hex keys and two Torx.

Must be imperial sizes?

Sort of progress. Fork is a random one from when I was going to switch to 700c. Mostly given up on the original fork pretty much and resigned to buying a new one. I like how much this one doesn't match though. Bar tape is horrible stuff from China that also really suits the frankenbike aesthetic I think.

Measured the seat tube, I think it's 26.2mm... but as noted above, apparently Marin used to use 26.4mm which is well within my measurement precision. Might build it up and cycle to a bike shop without the saddle...

Previous sale of wheels through after the moron guy failed to meet my brother to hand them over. All-round shoddy communication, and now wants to relist them with postage as an option after I asked him about doing that weeks ago. So, I've decided he's not worth dealing with. Hopefully will be getting a front one of these instead though, which will look hilarious:

Nipples in the hub! 16 spokes! Deliberately designed to work for rim brakes and disc brakes for some reason!

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What the hell it's that rim! Holes in the sides? Looks mad

Yeah, it's insane! The J-bend goes in the side of the rim with the nipple in the hub. You've probably got no chance of replacing the rim once it wears out though!

This ever get built?

No... I never got the wheels and am still needing a fork.

I was actually going to go and have a look for a fork tonight. Have my eye on another set of wheels but the seller isn't keen on posting them for now. Unfortunately these wheels are much less interesting than those 16-spoke crazy things above.

It will happen eventually...