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• #302
Yes, thanks! What make are they?
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• #303
My Wiggle account tells me that they're:
Michelin Air Comp Latex Road Inner Tube Green - Presta 40mm 700 x
22-23cI bought them on a whim but then a woman at a cafe stop told me some horror story about one going bang on her and causing a crash that snapped her collar bone. I got the fear and never fitted them!
I can post them or we can meet up? A tenner sound OK?
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• #304
That's an excellent deal, but they're not that light so I'm gonna pass. Might repair this Conti Supersonic tube and see how it goes, now that I've found the little bit of glass in the tyre.
Stick em on the TT thread though, they'll go in minutes.
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• #305
I'll take them please... would need posting up north but I'll cover the postage
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• #306
They will still be faster than the supersonics even if they are heavier
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• #307
Biting the built and getting the 50g Vredestiens.
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• #308
Cool. DM me your address and I'll get them in the post.
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• #309
Stop eating all that Kimcheese and helicopters, goes straight to the guns I heard
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• #310
Big Saladâ„¢ FTW
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• #312
Legit photos by the talented @Monster1985 (@breakaway_photography on Instagram)
Squeezed into an XS LFGSS.CC skinsuit today too. Just.
6 Attachments
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• #313
You running it without the bung in the steerer?
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• #314
Without the topcap. Can't get the star nut out easily so it's staying.
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• #315
Oh that is good. I think I need a 30mm though.
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• #316
probably Aican Bungarus
Wasn't he that eastern European rider who got caught swinging races for cash?
Re: your arms, stop doing stuff with them. They'll atrophise and turn to fat. Then you can burn the fat off.
Well done on the fourth.
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• #317
How much do your skewers weigh?
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• #318
43g
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• #320
19g!!? That's mad. I guess I could also try and tap the axle for an M6 thread and use titanium button flange machine screws. Is this a thing @mdcc_tester?
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• #321
titanium
I wouldn't bother with Ti, 7075T6 is strong enough, half the weight and quarter of the price. Neither is easily available in Torx, and both are easy to round out in hex socket form if you're either ham fisted or use poor quality Allen keys. Tapping QR axles for M6 screws is a thing, but it depends on the hub design being suitable.
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• #322
Thanks for the info. Might have a look at the axles, could be an easy way to save gs.
Southborough Wheelers club HC this morning. First, with a provisional course record.
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• #323
Amazing result, congratulations.
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• #324
could be an easy way to save gs.
Steel screws and aluminium washers are 10g per wheel on my low resolution scale, the CAD model says more like 8g.
You could take another 4g off by using aluminium screws, e.g. https://www.pro-bolt.com/aluminium-countersunk-6x15mm-bolts-countersunk-washers-set-x-4-7.htmlThe two ends of the axle which you cut the thread into must be the same continuous piece of metal, many hub designs use end caps and rely on the skewer to pass all the way through to hold everything together and that won't work with a screw in each end. Also, anything with a 5mm hex broached into the end of the axle for use with an Allen key as part of the hub servicing procedure will have too little material left to make safe M6 threads. The correct tap drill size for M6Ă—1 is 5.0mm for cut threads, but you can get away with its being a bit over, and it will be because the hollow axle is bored to clear a 5mm skewer. I'm assuming 7075T6 axles since it's a weight weenie bike, which unfortunately don't lend themselves to roll taps which would be better otherwise, partly because forging threads is inherently a good idea but mostly because you could get a full thread form out of the 5.5mm bore.
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• #325
They're Bitex hubs with a hex shaped axle hole for (dis)assembly so I may not bother in the end. Thanks for saving me a fiddle with the taps.
I have three latex tubes I don't dare use. Want them cheap?