Talbot All Road.

Pics ?

That ISP with the GTI green. Swoon. Top work sir.

first hoops must build it....

edit: these rims:

on something like:

anyway, sidetracked

Fair comment, although i'd say referring to them as 'agricultural' is a bit harsh. The welds are not as pretty as those seen on a Moots or Firefly etc, but this frame cost no where near as much as something from those builders.

Matt has only started to TIG weling some of his frames fairly recently (mostly winter Four Seasons frames, which are all about functionality) so i can only say his welds are getting better with each frame he builds. I specifically asked for this frame to be TIG'ed with no clean up to keep costs down and am 100% happy with how they look.

Getting all bothered about welds is fine and good and I would expect on Ti frames like Moots and Firefly, but these look absolutely fine IMO and its a fucking painted frame. Its a proper belter of a machine... Probably my fav build Matt has done.

Sick. I used to read GTI magazine as a teen. Not sure why. Probably because I grew up in Birmingham.

A worthy read. The intellectuals Max Power.

Because it needs to be on every page from now on. This is supreme, and possibly the most appropriate bike to have been shot on that patch of road. Now you need to replace the mini with w window rattling MKII

Did they have "local girls on local boy car" photo shoots?

I'm guessing it was a way to get one handed reading into the house?

What tubeset was this in the end? Is TIG lighter or generally just cheaper?

Lighter and cheaper.

Mostly Columbus Spirit. Carbon ISP is made by Crossman composites in UK. Chainstays are Deda I think.

Yeah, as JB said, a tiny bit lighter, but much quicker (which equals cheaper), as you dont have to spend days smooting out the fillets like you would with a brazed frame.

That profile pic... Really liking the proportion of the bike (hey, its my size!) and the pencil stays look good - didn't like them much before this.
I'm liking the sound of tig, the cheaper bit is good... Given my budget I'd need to spec a standard seat tube too.

Took the mudguards off this week before last as I've been doing a fair bit of toe path/woodland/gravel riding on it recently. Love it so much... having so much fun testing out my (lack of) technical ability in the absence of tarmac. Tyres are a bit skinny for wet mud, but the 33c Almanzos at around 30psi are pretty good all round option. I can fit 38's in the frame, so may go bigger, but am also ooking into my options for a budget set of 650b wheels, as switching between wheels is easier than constantly changing tyres.

Will prolly have something handbuilt, but are there any recommended factory built centrelock options that are suitable for this kind of frame?

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switching between wheels is easier than constantly changing tyres.

Make sure the hubs is also identical, sometime switching wheel with a different hubs move the disc rotor a little further out or in.

something like this maybe? https://www.bike24.com/1.php?content=8;product=139896

I think thats DT's narrowest MTB rim .. 20mm internal. 11sp MTB so no idea how/wether it will work with road cassettes. FWIW if you have a long cage rear mech it can go upto 36t easily if you have to resort to MTB cassette. Comes with decent set of QRs, adapters and tubeless stuff.

Shimano factory 27.5 mtb wheelset would be the starting point I'd have thought.

Something like this for £200 assuming you have a 15mm front and QR rear.

I concur with Ed on this. It's much easier swapping wheelsets when the hubs are identical as there's no need for faffing about getting the calipers realigned with the discs.

Such a nice bike.

Thanks all.... good advice on keeping hub identical. The Ines on there at the moment are only Bitex anyway, so not exactly gonna break the bank with another set. Also forgot to mention rear is 135, so proper MTB wheels will mostly be 142 these days, and hence not work? It's looking like original idea of handbuilt is the way to go.

Rear mech is a medium cage. I've had no issues with 50/34 and a 11-28 cassette so far, so am hesitant to get a big cassette for now as it will make changing wheels more of a ball ache, as I amgain 36t would need a much longer chain.

Also got the cables at the front end tidied up, as they were a bit too long and bugging me. The cabling is about as clean as it could be now I think.

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Thanks!

Also forgot to mention rear is 135, so proper MTB wheels will mostly be 142 these days, and hence not work?

Nope. 135 will exist alongside boost and other propriety standards like AI for a while yet.

The big issue - which I should have flagged up above - is finding factory MTB hubs that take road 11 speed cassettes.

as I amgain 36t would need a much longer chain.

36t cassette or chainring?

It won't need a long chain, you got a medium cages derailleur, so putting a 11-32 will be fine.

What may not be fine is the wear on the chain from the old 11/28 running on the 11/32 cassette, keep a chain wear tool handy to ensure it doesn't go past 0.5% on the Park Tool CC-3.2 chain wear tools.

Hunt makes a 650 wheelset. Or just Stans Crest or WTB laced to your hub of choice

The big issue - which I should have flagged up above - is finding factory MTB hubs that take road 11 speed cassettes.

I need a solution for this too, as I've got XT M8000 hubs and a Di2 6870GS mech and just assumed I could get a Shimano 11 speed MTB cassette in 11-32.

All the 11s MTB cassettes seem to have 40t+ dinner plates.

I found "CS-HG800" mentioned at http://productinfo.shimano.com/#/com/1.8?acid=C-253&cid=C-544 but there are no results for HG800 in the product spec section.

Then found one listing for "CS-HG800-11":
https://www.paul-lange.de/shop/de/shimano/11-fach/kassette-cs-hg800-11-fach.html which is 11-34.

Basically my advice above is shit. Sometimes I forget eleven speed road is a thing.