Cannondale F1000 Caad 4 revival project - Headshok Fatty D Service / Part Repair

Sorry to bother you again @JWestland. Where did your source that rubber thing? Think I'm having the same problem as you in that all the new springs come sans damper...where's your source?

I got mine I'm bike24, and only the hard spring had a damper. That was months ago and not sure they still do it.

Bit they reply fast. Then there Dr Cannondale in Germany too.

If really stuck, you can buy elastomer and shape it (I don't have the tools) or get replacements in the USA. But those are £££

Occasionally one can get lucky on the eBay's. Make sure you have the right model fork :)

Did you finish the bike @JWestland ? Any pics?

https://www.tftuned.com/

They won’t touch Cannondale stuff that’s this early. 2006 or later if iirc.

Cannondale have no stock of the spring / MCU assembly - anyone who is selling them has got hold of some NOS from back in the day.

Thanks, messaged them.
It's an old skool 60mm travel dooberry. The most exciting bit of the internals is that rubber thing. Seems they are going the way of the dodo though. Challenging.
Should have just shelled out on this: think it would have fit and is now pretty rare:https://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/Cannondale-Super-Fatty-Headshock-Headshok-replacement/263350880134#vi__app-cvip-panel

Nearly there got interrupted by other things (drawing comic, annoying life stuff)

Tune gear then cut cables or let biek ship do it they are way too long!

Note the pretty hope hub :)

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https://qwertycycles.co.uk/products/cannondale-headshock-dl-mc-50-spring-medium-kf242

It's 1 cm short but if one cm of yours is salvageable it may work? The spring should hold it together.

This has been on going longer than dbad. Is it done?

Back from the shop just need to tune gears and get a spacer / bar end caps.

Classy all black or gold / red for a touch of rasta tones, what to do.

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Not red - green if its an exact match to the frame - otherwise black - gold if you must

Tx! No green then, as it's impossible to get the seatpost clamp green.

So black spacer and a gold bar-end then. Unfortunately 1.56 spacers are hen's teeth and ££ I will ask if the Dremel the manfriend has can grind down an 1.5. The cheapest 1.56 I found are $30 :/

Can we a have a proper photo please!

Will do once it's ready to cycle, waiting for spacer/plugs.

lol - just my opinion - do what you want with it :)
watched a youtube on overhauling one of those forks...nuts

did these frames come with cantis / v-brakes & disk mounts on them?

castlenuts

This one has disc mounts but I think usually it was sold with v-brakes.

I was lucky I only had to replace the elastomer, taking the whole thing apart is tricky. Howard has done it and made a nice thread on here :)

Gears all tuned, bar end caps in the post...

... let's try the lockout! Hey, it doesn't work. Oh ballix, the screw broke off.

More work then 🙄🙄🙄🙄😤😤😤😤

Edit: false alarm it works...but looks a bit broken? Ok ready to use it for work!

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On the versions with hydraulic dampers that hex bolt thing shouldn't come off. It's a super-tight press fit. Not sure about the elasto / spring versions though..

It's an air damper I think it's ok, it still works and ones they sell have a seperate button with bolt.

Mild bit if panic as the manfriend thought it was bust! And those air piston cartridges in 60/70 mm travel are "hen's teeth"

Item 332526422487 on ebay if still stuck seller has a few more

Ah yeah the bolt thing shouldn't come off.

But if it all kinda works once back together just leave it alone :)

Actually. Ignore that ^.

Be warned.

It might be - and I'll have a think about it - that if the hex bolt comes off the only thing holding the lower of the fork in to the upper are the little two race clips.

Which is bad.

http://www.vrvbike.com/shop/cannondale-headshok-bouchon-fourche-dd60-damping-dial-kit-hd119.html

It seems normal this comes off?

The air piston is threaded on with locktite underneath it, the spring and elastomer can't go anywhere.

The dial thing should come off, but the bolt it sits on should not.

Ah, HM, in mine I can simply unscrew the tiny screw. Then I can pull the hexabolt and cap off.

The tiny screw basically holds it all down so that the lockout dial works. If I screw it too tight, I can't turn the button. If it's not there, the button has nothing to hold itself against.

And you can buy the button with bolt seperate. There doesn't seem to be anything the hook the hexabolt against, no threads or a specific shape it's just a round hole that goes over fork bit, I just push it down.

It was like that from when I bought it, so either previous owner broke it, or fatty D 60 forks work like that?

Cavehill is a scenic place to die anyway if it all goes horribly wrong :p