Cannondale F1000 Caad 4 revival project - Headshok Fatty D Service / Part Repair

Did you replace the bearings? Can't remember

I did and getting the fork through was murder.

Not so sure it's even right (see pic)
Le Manfriend is like "this...is not a good system, can't use a normal bearing press..."

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Yeah that's not seated.

Take it out again. Have a feel of the bearings. If they weren't / aren't on straight, they will feel stiff.

Tx :)
It's really hard to get the fork in...

So, perhaps I should try to pull it in (as a headset press won't work)
But wood will bend... any idea if there's any material I can say that can pull the assembly up w/o getting damaged?

Otherwise it's screwdriver or chisel and a hammer, which really isn't the right way :/

Or should I very very slightly sand the steerer? But that's risky too.

You need a pipe - metal or PVC but PVC better with the same ID as the bearing.

It's really hard to get the fork in for a reason :)

• take off the top cap and hammer the fork out again
  
• check the lower bearing - if it feels shitty remove it and try again
  
• seat the lower bearing with the pipe
  
• push the fork in to the frame, put the upper bearing on the steerer
  
• hammer the upper bearing in to the cup with the pipe
  
  

two person job :)

Aaah I put the bearing on the fork first...which was a total and utter hoor of a job already. It sticks halfway through :/

OK yeah fair enough, seat bearing first, bring profannisaurus and PVC pipe and retry.

(if bearing fecked, yeah get bearing first...)

Tx!

Aaah I put the bearing on the fork first

Yea this is what you should do - drive it down over the first bearing seat and down on to the second. Don't use a hammer and screwdriver because you'll kill the bearing. The pipe is your friend :)

It's usually then a simple job to drive the second bearing down on to the steerer in to the cup.

It's been a while, but from what I remember

1 - put bearing on fork (tight spot but one bit was ok)
2- drive fork in (really super hard had to hammer)

Maybe I should

1 - put bearing on frame cup at bottom
2 - drive fork in
3 - deal with top bearing (easy I have something that's perfect for that)

Then at least the bearing is seated in the cup. Argh it's just a bad system!

Lower bearing needs to be installed on the steerer before it meets the frame, like this

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That's what I have done... it's extremely hard to get the fork through :/

Should I take out the top bearings?

That's what I have done... it's extremely hard to get the fork through :/

It should be - it's a very tight press fit. That said, the lower bearing when on the steerer as above should slide reasonably easily in to the lower headset cup. Only the top bearing needs to be hammered in to place.

Should I take out the top bearings?

Yes. You kinda don't have any choice if you want to inspect the lower bearing and make sure it's still OK.

Doesn't slide easy... at all :(

I will take out the fork, the top bearing and do attempt nr2 once I have some help.

Tx again!

I might be wrong then, the cup should be a press fit too. Arghh

More like

ARRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGH

;)

I'll figure it out somehow. Last time I let the manfriend loose on the brakes they were fixed in half an hour, but he's looking at this shaking his head muttering "what sort of system is this..." ;)

OK I think I found the issue: There's a super duper tight spot on the steerer...so the bottom bearing entry is smooth, but the top bearing is where the tight spot is and it's impossubru.

So I need to find a way to very, very carefully take out the top bearing. Then I can seat the steerer, and put the wheel in, pump the tyre and then whack the bearing down over the steerer into the top cup.

Of course I don't have something that's the right size to get the top bearing out of the frame... so need to look around :)

Dunno where that tight spot comes from, maybe just years of use made the bearing eat in a little...sanding it has it's own risks unfortunately.

Did this resolve itself? I've just picked up a CAAD 4 mountain bike with headshock as a doerupper and am already worried I've bitten off more thna I can chew.

Headshock on mine feels good, as does the headset, but there was some gunk eminating from the dust boot. How concerned should I be.

Also, need a shorter stem. Anyone got a 60-80mm 1.56 stem going?

Headshock on mine feels good, as does the headset, but there was some gunk eminating from the dust boot. How concerned should I be.

From the bottom of the boot? It's probably the damper fluid. If the lockout is clunky or just doesn't work it's leaked.

I had the steerer fitted at my lbs, I couldn't get it quite right, but fixing the (very simple) headshok was doable.

Howard's instructions are also very good :)

Edit: I found those stems on eBay, a German seller has them or used. But I got one kindly donated :) under 8 is hard second hand in 1.56 and "old" clamp size, nos can be had but that's £30 odd.

I'm building it up had a huge fight with the shifters (don't take them apart like I do kids...) now just need to tune gears and brakes :)

Then lateron trim, bleed and fill the stupid long brake lines.

Hmm. It doesn't have lockout. Was that a thing on the early ones or am i missing a bit....?

P.S. Thanks for any assistance. We need to set a standing order as a thanks for advice on cannondale specific hardware fun.

Should be a dial on the top of the steerer.

Some early ones had variable compression instead.

Hmm, I'll have to take a photo when I get a chance. Its not obviously got either of those...

Think I'll be saying Hmmm alot with this one.

Yep! Post a pick in the cannondale thread or something.

CAAD4s should have lockout - it was the really early ones where they had nothing or adjustable compression.

Really late ones had adjustable rebound and a lockout. If you've got a little red dial, that's what you've got.

Mine is CAAD4, it has a lockout. Just 60 mm of travel, but not wanting to go on routes where I need Big Massive Travel anyway... don't have the skills :)