Rossin Prestige "neo-retro" build

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  • 70 Euro shipped isn't too unpalatable, as you say for 26.0 compact bars and Nitto quality. Is the bar width measured centre to centre or end to end? Would hate to make the mistake after waiting a while for the bars.

  • hehe, for sure. my only concern is the quality, my 1st gen Moto G in bad conditions (indoors) makes rather crappy pictures. the cam is basically an advanced potato.
    but the final build will be shot definitely with a proper device :)

  • It is supposed to be center to center but I am just 99% sure :D
    I will check it out when I get home and let you know, mine is (should be) a 42cm C-C

  • Yeah, 42cm C-C is what I've got, just checked. Lovely bars. I paid a bit more for mine incl. customs but I can't see me changing them for a long time.

  • that was a big concern of mine. tax&customs for imported goods is some wicked fictional weird shit. basically the state robs you IMO. in the case of these bars for example. the Japanese state profits from it, tax is included in the price. that is absolutely fair. but based on what does the state charge you again, even though the item is just imported and manufactured in a totally different country? OK, I do not want to discuss such things here :D
    fortunately I did not have to pay any extra money neither for the bars, nor for the seatpost.
    but I guess it is worth the money even with the double-tax ;)

  • PS: yepp, it is a 42cm c-c

  • Detail of the rear drop:


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  • Woof!

    (edit: thanks for the bar info - now ordered last one on eBay)

  • took Mr. Rossin to the garden for a few minutes


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  • Wonderful!

  • This is a great looking frame and looks to be an awesome build!
    Funnily enough, I'm planning to use very same bars for a current project I have, but I have to say they're simply impossible to move in/out of the quill stem. At one point, taking it out the last time, I was even thinking of sawing the fucking stem clamp open, but then I read of the coin trick - still took me about an hour with the coin... Dreadful to think what I will have to go throught to put it back it now...

  • Thanks! :)
    If everything goes according to the plan, the full build will be finished until Wednesday.
    The grouppo is already on its way from Italy and tomorrow it will be very likely in my canvas bag, going home.
    So hopefully more pictures coming very soon!

  • Man, exactly, I feel you... :D
    Had exactly the same problem.
    I believe they are not exactly 26mm but 26,05 or so, I have no idea, but it definitely should not be such a pain in the ass.
    My solution: as I already mentioned earlier, I removed the bolt, put there two 2cent coins and a 32mm flat "headset wrench" in between the coins and applied some force to move the wrench a bit inside. Thus I was able to defeat the dreaded curved part but this was still insufficient at the center of the bars. My concern was overstretching the clamp of the stem and damaging it so I just greased the bars and moved the stem to the center of the bars.
    There are some minor scratches, no big thing but still, it is not "brand new" anymore.
    I wonder whether the bars work better with Nitto stems.
    Anyways, these bars are definitely among the top 3 bars you can opt for if you are building a "vintage" bike.

  • No, they don't work 'better' with Nitto stems, they work much worse! Thing is, your Cinelli is 26.4, and Nittos etc are 26.0, so much tighter! What I did with the 'coin trick' is having an actual bolt push the coin, instead of me holding the wrench or whatever. Still was a mess on the hoods area... Anyway, you're already past that problem :)

  • Hm, I believe the clamp of the Cinelli A1 stem is exactly 26mm, at least the papers say so.
    The diameter of the bars ditto.
    But you´re right, this is not a problem for me anymore. I hope you can figure out how to pass the challenge.
    On my previous build I used a 3TTT Status stem with Cinelli Vai bars and it went absolutely smoothly.

  • You're both scaring me - when my bars arrive they're going in the fridge and will use a hairdryer on the stem as it sounds like every little will help!

  • Not to worry! You can always cover the deep scratches with bar tape aaaaaall the way to the stem clamp. Right?..

  • Don´t worry, it is not that bad, depends on the stem you are going to use. But be prepared for such minor complications. If the clamp is 26mm then the difference should not be that big. But I believe stretching out the clamp a bit is unavoidable.
    Most importantly - take your time and rather play with it for an hour or so than trying to solve the problem ASAP, that will likely lead to scratching/damaging something ;)

  • I have been using 'reverse pliers' recently, although gotta say the coin trick sounds pretty reliable!

  • Some 3TTT stem have a nice 'bolt', next to the tightening one, which does the exact same thing as the coin trick. You screw it in until it pushes on the main body and pries the clamp open as much as you need and keeps it open for you. Very nice feature! Will post a picture soon.
    Wish all the stems had this. It was REALLY useful for me in order to remove the bars that were in it.

  • Well, that is definitely a useful and nice touch!
    Never seen/heard of that before.

  • FWIW, I did have a massive ball-ache when matching the M106 with a Nitto Dynamic 10 stem, but the only minor scratches occurred on the top bend of the bar (transition from top to hood), with no marks on the top, so no exposed scratches once the bar tape was on. I think I used a large flat screwdriver as a wedge to open out the stem clamp, similar to the coin trick, and some lithium grease on the top bar. I still needed to be careful once the bend was cleared, but no further brute force required.

  • it is, and forgot to take pictures :) later tonight

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Rossin Prestige "neo-retro" build

Posted by Avatar for dragulievic @dragulievic

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